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Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:25 am

Hey guys well on another post I had here was that my engine shut off completely and wouldn't turn back on. So I found out yesterday the car started up after the battery was charged fully but it did take a while. I noticed it wouldn't idle now so i went back to check the carb to see if it was throwing fuel. To my surprise with the car off and ignition off, the carb had a constant flow of gas still flowing, Not squirting but flowing down, it stopped after a bit.

I took it apart with his help and used carb cleaner to clean it(it was recently rebuilt). I put it back together and started the car. It started but was jerky so I went to the back. I saw fuel coming out of the tube that comes up from the top part of the carb the one on top of the choke. I mean a lot of fuel came out. It looked like water pooring out of a hose, so the engine just shut off. I decided not to crank it and take key out.

I took carb top out and noticed that the float pin retainer was on back wards. I fixed it and closed the carb again.

I turn on the car and it sounded perfect but shut off again. I turned it on again now and no fuel coming out of the top part of the carb and when turned off no more fuel is dripping from the jet...

This is where the interesting thing happend. I turn on the car, i rev it slightly (sounds normal) and see a lot of smoke out the back. (blackish color). I then see fuel was leaking out of the exhaust. I shut down the car as I thought it was oil, but when i looked at it and smelled it , it was fuel. so with the car off, fuel was just dripping from exhaust.

What now? I left it off as it was too late to keep working on it. I got back later on today to work on it. Do i leave it on, will it damage the engine?

Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:29 am

When it flooded you filled the cylinders and exhaust etc with so much fuel it could not possibly burn off just running it such a short time.

Your also lucky you did not continue to run it.

DRAIN THE OIL NOW... do not run it any further until you do or you will wipe out your bearings and internals from the oil being so diluted with the gasoline.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:33 am

keifernet is right if you had kept running it you really could have lost your vw i would let it set for a day or 2 with out starting it cause it you had enough fuel in the exhaust to drip out there is alot of fuel in there. it may not ne a bad idea to take the exhaust of and try and drain it out. Personnally i would, and before i put it back on will would take a long neck candle lighter and try and ignite the the exhaust, after you had let it set to dry. it would be better to possibly ignite your exhaust while it is off the car so you dont lose your car.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:18 am

frenchy47 wrote: take a long neck candle lighter and try and ignite the the exhaust, after you had let it set to dry. it would be better to possibly ignite your exhaust while it is off the car so you dont lose your car.

Do NOT try to light the gasoline on fire that's in the exhaust system. Igniting gas in a mostly cosed metal container could very easily explode and produce enough shrapnel to kill you.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:51 am

Cool, thanks for the advise I will not turn in on fire. lol.
I will just go today and drain all of the oil and refill it back. I think its about time. I dont know when the last time the owner changed it but its been parked for a while.

Can i just remove the drain plug and then put it back and refill it?

Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:58 am

ctracing04 wrote: Can i just remove the drain plug and then put it back and refill it?

There's also the oil screen under the sump plate that needs to be cleaned every once in a while. How often is probably a matter of debate. However, given your circumstances, I think that draining the oil via the drain bolt and putting in fresh is the smart idea. The drain bolt has a copper crush washer; ideally you'd use a fresh one every time, but at least put it back.

I might even just drive it a few miles, then drain the oil again and put fresh oil in yet again, just to make sure any gasoline that made it into the crankcase has been flushed out.

It should take a little less than 3 quarts each time.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 10:03 am

gevmage wrote: ctracing04 wrote: Can i just remove the drain plug and then put it back and refill it?

There's also the oil screen under the sump plate that needs to be cleaned every once in a while. How often is probably a matter of debate. However, given your circumstances, I think that draining the oil via the drain bolt and putting in fresh is the smart idea. The drain bolt has a copper crush washer; ideally you'd use a fresh one every time, but at least put it back.

I might even just drive it a few miles, then drain the oil again and put fresh oil in yet again, just to make sure any gasoline that made it into the crankcase has been flushed out.

It should take a little less than 3 quarts each time.

Yes if it is that old of oil and the gas contamination to boot it would be prudent ( if the engine is in good shape otherwise) to do it in short period.

Oil is still CHEAP compared to engine work/rebuilds :D :idea:

Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:56 am

i wasnt meaning ignite the gas if there was any measureable amount.

But your probally right and that might not be the best thing to do.

Sat Oct 24, 2009 5:34 am

So I actually let the car sit for two days.
I then went in there and changed the oil, charged the battery and started the car. Its started fine for like a minute then it started stumbling and shut off.

I pumped gas in there and it started fine again and slowly started sputtering till it shut off. I waited five minutes and it started fine so I decided to rev it and It did rev but started loosing power if i let go of the gas it seems to stay on longer and if I would press the gas peddle to give it more gas it would die so the only way to keep the engine on is to keep the pressing and letting go of the peddle but it eventually dies.

Intake boots have been replaced already as well as intake gaskets on the head side.

what could it be. Before replacing the intake boots and runner gaskets the only way to have kept the car on was by closing the choke so we did a rebuild on the carb and replaced that while at it. If i close the choke when warm it automatically dies now.

What could this be?
I have a dual vacuum advance dizzy. Bocar 34-3. I noticed one side of the vacuum goes to the intake runner and the other one to the side of the carb. Could this be the issue?

Sat Oct 24, 2009 5:40 am

have you checked your timing? is the carb adjusted correctly?

Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:32 am

ctracing04 wrote: So I actually let the car sit for two days.
I then went in there and changed the oil, charged the battery and started the car. Its started fine for like a minute then it started stumbling and shut off.

I pumped gas in there and it started fine again

Ok, stop doing that. Given that you KNOW that gas is (or at least was) getting somewhere it shouldn't, if the car starts fine then dies, it's likely that whatever was happening is happening again. So if that happens, STOP and try to figure out if if gas is getting where it shouldn't (again).

Quote: what could it be. Before replacing the intake boots and runner gaskets the only way to have kept the car on was by closing the choke so we did a rebuild on the carb and replaced that while at it.
If i close the choke when warm it automatically dies now.
I think that's probably god.

Quote:
What could this be?
I have a dual vacuum advance dizzy. Bocar 34-3. I noticed one side of the vacuum goes to the intake runner and the other one to the side of the carb. Could this be the issue?
Well it's definitely wrong. The advance side of the dizzy is plumbed to the LEFT port on the carb. The retard side is plumbed...er...to the port on the back, facing you, I think? And of course make sure that any unused ports on the carb are plugged.

Sounds like you have some pretty major setup problems. Maybe post photos of your engine compartment for starters?

By the way, have you checked your fuel pump? take it off the pedestal? If fuel runs out, it may be leaking out the bottom, which is BAD.

Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:25 am

I checked the top of the carb and its not leaking anymore like it was before. Everything looks good.

Fuel pump is good no leaks on the bottom.
I'll reput the vacuum lines the way you explained.

Also I checked the bypass screw and screwed it all the way in and saw gas was there, not pooring out but it was wet. I then loosend it 3 turns out. Is this normal?

Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:31 am

So this is what I will go back and do.

purchase carb rebuild kit (just in case.)
get points, condenser for dvda.
Set vacuum lines where they go and cap the other one on the intake manifold.
get new sparkplug wires.
tools to adjust the valves and set timing.

If the valves are set good, Timing set good. I dont know how I will set it if car doesn't stay on long enough but i'll do my best.
WD40 to test for vacuum leaks
Intake runner boots changed and tight and the engine still stumbles will that be a carb or something else?

Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:02 pm

it really sounds like your float needle valve is not working properly.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:54 am

I had the same problem with my engine. As silly as this may sound, check your gas cut off valve on the carb and make sure it is hooked up properly to the coil. It should be connected to the 15 on the coil. I accidently wired it wrong and the valve kept opening and shutting causing it to die. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:31 am

ctracing04 wrote:
If the valves are set good, Timing set good. I dont know how I will set it if car doesn't stay on long enough but i'll do my best.

You can set the timing statically to get you inthe ballpark. 7.5 BTDC.

Quote: Intake runner boots changed and tight and the engine still stumbles will that be a carb or something else?

Depends on what it does and if you find any intake leaks. I was told to check for leaks with starter fluid; I don't know how the two compare.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:00 am

borninabus wrote: it really sounds like your float needle valve is not working properly.
Yep.

And measure the fuel pressure.

Max

Sat Nov 21, 2009 1:09 pm

Issue has been resolved.
My uncle took old carb apart to reclean it. Still wasn't working. what happends is the inside line is plugged up and can't get it unplugged.

It runs from where the accelorator pump is at to the top of the carb.
here is a picture I found online that shows that side of the carb.

So i had another spare carb just laying out side. I had taken that to my uncle as I was busy working OT back at work. He was able to clean it, tune it and everything. It seems like its working fine. I went to test drive it and was really happy it wasn't shutting off at stoplights, or while putting it in nuetral while driving. (just to test shift between gears).. :D