TheSamba.com :: View topic - FOX 2.0 Coil overs versus FOX 2.5 Coil Overs

Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:55 am

I have a 2200 # Woods play car and I am in the shock debate. Obviously the 2.5s would be the way to go if money and fittment was no problem. My delima is first off the cost difference. The other is I don't have enough room for the 2.5s with out a lot of modification. So my question is will the 2.0s do the job well and last etc. Most of my riding is at lower speeds in the Woods. The terrain is however very rocky.

Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:14 am

I assume you're talking out back. Heavy car, but if the 2.0s have rezies, I would think you'd be okay. If you have room (which doesn't sound like you do), a pair of smooth body rezies, which aren't that expensive, would be a welcome addition to your C/Os. I'm running 2.0 C/Os (non-rezies) on my four seater (out back), but I've mated them with 3.0 triple bypasses (ya, a bit of overkill). Prior to this, I ran 2.0 non rezies mated with 2.0 rezies out back and I never noticed too much heat or fade. These all are/were Fox Shocks too. Of course, for what you pay for Fox Shocks, you might do well to take a look at FOA shocks http://f-o-a.com/ Good luck.

Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:23 am

Yes I am refering to the rear of the car. The rear weighs in at 1500#. I currently have FOX 2.0 x 10" Coil overs w/RESs in the front and FOX 2.0 x 12" smooth bodys w/RESs with 28MM torsions in the rear. I also have 2 X 3 rear arms that I will be replacing with 3 x 3 arms to Increase travel.

I could use the 12" I have and add the 2.0 coil overs however I really would need 14" Coil overs and 14" smooth bodys. I could move the smoth Body up the trailing arm some to compensate for the shorter stroke however I have not seen it done yet and dont know how well it would work.

Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:40 am

When I converted, I had hoped to re-use my pair of rezie shocks, but it just wasn't in the cards. Sometimes you've just got to bite the bullet. Here's how I did my 12" C/O and 14" Bypass (I don't much like the C/O upper
mount, so I'll be changing that soon). Perhaps something like this will work for you:

Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:09 am

Nice job. Mine would be just the opposite. The 14" C/O would be behind and the 12" Smooth body would be foward. So you still had the travel you expected? How much travel did you end up with. What did you do about valving?

Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:10 pm

Travel is fine. Can't remember off the top of my head, but its fine. A 12/14 combo works great. Don't have the valving numbers. I did this last Feb and I've gotten into different projects since, so worked mostly stopped. Thus, I've forgotten most numbers. I "Sharpied" some figures on the wall of my shop, but that's about it, and I can't remember them anywho. When you set yours up, you want a right angle (or as close as possible) when your trailing arm is at full compression (shock and trailing arm are at 90 degrees from each other). If you can setup your 12" shock correctly, then the rest follows easily.

Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:17 pm

Here is a link on how it is now. Well besides installed a Subaru turbo motor and Boggers.

http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_con...p;Itemid=8

Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:52 pm

Love your motorcycle lift!!

I'd still rec that you use the C/O as your shorter shock. That way, if you decide to buy expensive bypasses down the road, the C/O shock provides some protection for the bypass (protection from rocks getting kicked up from your front tires). In addition (in my case anyway), the bypass does the lion's share of the dampening, so a longer shock (longer body with more shock fluid of course) keeps the fluid cooler longer.

Nice build, but the way!