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Wed Nov 11, 2009 3:24 pm

As far as the tine screws go, the penetrating oil has not yet worked and I'm ready to move on to heat. I've got the big screwdriver w/hex so I can apply downward force & torque @ the same time. Last resort will be one of those reverse thread drill bit attachments.

As far as dropping the engine/tranny, I'm guessing I should follow the Bentley instructions for removing the tranny to take it out as a unit (engine/torque converter/tranny). Is that correct?

Then disconnect tranny from the torque converter leaving me with the original problem of separating the torque converter from the engine...?

Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:13 pm

Hiya Munk,

DaMunk wrote: As far as the tine screws go, the penetrating oil has not yet worked and I'm ready to move on to heat. I've got the big screwdriver w/hex so I can apply downward force & torque @ the same time. Last resort will be one of those reverse thread drill bit attachments.

Yeah, and I'd only go that route as a last resort.

Quote: As far as dropping the engine/tranny, I'm guessing I should follow the Bentley instructions for removing the tranny to take it out as a unit (engine/torque converter/tranny). Is that correct?

The Bentley will help somewhat. Pulling the switches and the half-axles, etc. But you will be somewhat on your own inasmuch as Bentley does not address dropping the AS tranny and engine as a unit.

Quote: Then disconnect tranny from the torque converter leaving me with the original problem of separating the torque converter from the engine...?

Yep. But at this point separating the torque converter from the flexplate should be pretty easy. You'll have access to all four TC/flexplate bolts and room to work them.

Getting the flexplate off is usually something of a problem for most AS owners. Inasmuch as your engine is locked up you should be able to get your flexplate off. But be careful that in doing so you are not doing more damage to your engine.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:53 pm

Prepping to drop the tranny/engine tomorrow and noticed this

shouldn't something be connected to that switch?

Either the allen wrench I tried using is too soft or the CV joint screws were put in w/more than 25 ft.lbs...or even after cleaning, there's still gunk in there making it a PITA. Come on Liquid Wrench!

Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:58 pm

I believe most (or all) of the CV joint screws are triple square drive, 8mm (M8 triple square), not allen head. And you must get the recess clean of junk, and hold the M8 triple square in-line with the bolt.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:30 pm

That looks like the atf switch, it should be a brown wire with a blue and red striped one i belive.

Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:17 am

Cusser wrote: I believe most (or all) of the CV joint screws are triple square drive, 8mm (M8 triple square), not allen head. And you must get the recess clean of junk, and hold the M8 triple square in-line with the bolt.

Hmmm...Muir says Allen head - 6mm seemed to fit fine, Bentley just says 'socket head'...

I'm hoping an Allen head will work. I'm not too hopeful about finding a triple drive at the FLAPS and I really want to get this done this weekend since I've got a firm confirmation from a helper. :?

Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:49 am

DaMunk wrote: Cusser wrote: I believe most (or all) of the CV joint screws are triple square drive, 8mm (M8 triple square), not allen head. And you must get the recess clean of junk, and hold the M8 triple square in-line with the bolt.

Hmmm...Muir says Allen head - 6mm seemed to fit fine, Bentley just says 'socket head'...

I'm hoping an Allen head will work. I'm not too hopeful about finding a triple drive at the FLAPS and I really want to get this done this weekend since I've got a firm confirmation from a helper. :?

1. I've got the M8 Triple Square tool
2. That's what it takes, it fits, I've used it.
3. If you try to use an allen wrench on a triple square hole, even if it removes it (I doubt it), you'll have ruined the bolts and they may never come out or be re-used.
4. Glenn says M8 Triple Square.

Someone posted before that NAPA has these, search "triple square" or "triple square drive" here.

Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:03 am

DaMunk,
Reverse light switch. Two prongs on it. Pull the plug off carefully. What year is your A-S again? It would appear to have an early trans in it.

HTH
Volkenstein

Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:05 am

some aftermarket CV bolts do indeed have an allen head drive.

The only way to tell is to clean one of the suckers out and look

it'll be either an allen head or one of these

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7011

Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:00 pm

Two lessons of the weekend: going to the extra step is worth it and the F in FLAPS is key...it took a number of calls to area NAPA stores describing triple square drives before one said, "Give me a few minutes to look and I'll call you back." I now know where to call first. Big box stores can kick rocks.

Volks,
It's a '72. I'll take pics and look for a # when I actually get it out. Realized removing the tranny w/engine means lifting the body off to clear the rear tranny mounts. No biggie except turning the castle nut on one side just turned the whole joint & the pickle fork didn't work on the other side. :x

Liquid Wrench, a Samba search and rest should make it a breeze tomorrow afternoon. :wink:

Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:10 pm

I cleaned my cv bolts with orange degreaser (not that toxic) and q-tips and a dental picker. Take your time and clean them the best you can, because once their stripped, your in a jam. When I had all 32(?) of the bolts out I sandblasted them like new, but you can at least hit them with a wire wheel.

Clean bolts make happy mechanic. :D
Have plenty of wood blocks to prop stuff up, and a good moving blanket helps drag the motor out on the floor.
Good luck and post when ever you hit a snag.

Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:19 pm

DaMunk,
I wouldn't try removing the engine/trans as a combo. The vacuum servo interferes on the body quite badly. Ditto the drive flanges. You can pull the engine off the trans (ATF will leak :wink: ) and work on the torque converter bolts (use sh%tloads of penetrant) from there.

Even with the lower trans mount off (the big steel piece that bolts to the frame horns) it'll still turn you into a drooling simpleton trying to do it without garage equipment.

Just pull the engine back about 2-3" (support it decently, a friendly pair of spare hands is good...), and attack those TC bolts. Once they are off the TC can be pushed away from the engine back into the bellhousing and your engine can be dropped. Trans out later...

'72....hmmm..does your trans have a drain plug up near (4" inches or so) the gear shift housing/front trans mount??...Anyway, that aside first get the engine out and the GB "oddities" can be dealt with later (if at all necessary).

HTH
Volkenstein

Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:43 pm

the body went up and the engine/trans came out. it wasn't the most graceful, but i didn't bang the hell out of anything.

Got to the torque converter bolts w/no problems - 3 from one side and the 4th from the other.

Aside from the immovable engine tin screws, the problem now is getting the engine up on the engine stand...the 'VW adapter' doesn't quite line up.

Thanks for the help guys.

Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:35 pm

DaMunk wrote: the problem now is getting the engine up on the engine stand...the 'VW adapter' doesn't quite line up.

assuming you're trying to bolt the engine stand to the case as shown in this pic, you've got it on ass backwards. IE, the rotational axis of the engine stand should line up with the crankshaft. Also, it should be bolted to only ONE of the two case halfs, so you can split the case while on the stand.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:42 pm

i incorrectly assumed it bolted to the case from the top bolts and took pics figuring someone would correct me...thanks. :D

Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:19 am

I wish I had known you were taking the body off, I would have suggested that to get the engine/trans out a week ago! Sorry.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:24 pm

No worries Paul...the body's still not off. The bolt at the right front of the chassis just spins and I can hear the mounting nut turning and grinding rust.

The good news is I finally got the tin screws out with a vise grip...the bad news is I broke one of the heads that are mounted to the block.

I got the engine stand mount straightened out, but the lip around the edge prevents it from fitting snugly.

the plan is to take the grinder to the mount to improve the clearance.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:33 pm

Drill/re-tap that broken part of tin bolt. It's 6mm x 1mm thread.

Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:10 pm

Cusser, thanks for the specs...I may have bigger concerns.

The #2 spark plug thread

Aside from that, the engine is up on the stand, attached to the left half of the case

that's as close to horizontal as i can get it b/c the 3 holes on the 'VW adapter' are 90 degrees off. it would fit in the stand correctly if I attached it to both halves of the case the ass backwards way :roll:

I haven't decided if I'm gonna drill another hole so it will lay horizontal or if I'll just work with it as is...

Sat Nov 21, 2009 7:20 am

I myself use a solid threaded insert on my #2, works fine. Comes as a kit with a tap. Red Loctite goe son the outer surface of the insert to hold it in place, and a litle ant-seize goes on the plug threads. If the insert ever screws out with the plug, swap it to a new plug or simply install a replacement insert. NAPA, CarQuest, BAP, etc. all stock these. I think they're better than heli-coil kits.

I installed mine with engine in car (about 4 years ago), wait until the heads are off, or can do in its current condition.