TheSamba.com :: View topic - What part? or parts are not Original too this 1970 B case ?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:43 am

Check your Knowledge! Whats Not O.G. to this motor?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:59 am

Oil filter pump

that gold stuff on the engine block

Center-ring, but later-style diaphram clutch.

other than that looks pretty clean!

Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:06 am

X2, but that is one nice looking engine!! If it runs as good as it looks it should be a real hum-dinger!!! In the process of rebuilding my engine right now(1970 SP) and will use this one as a goal!!! That made me excited :P

Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:08 am

I would guess the worm-drive hose clamps aren't OG, but that's only a guess.

Damn clean lookin' engine! Nice work!

Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:29 am

I will Chime in and give responce's after a few more replies Cheer's 8) Eric

Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:15 pm

Well looks like their are no more replies so here are the Non Original Items. #1= Carb. admittidly it is hard to see given the picture's however the carb is not a 30 pict 3 but a replacment 30/31. #2 I thought for sure some one would have noticed , but the Distributor is a 1968 model and not the 205T that should be on the Motor.#3 Good the Gold Hue coating was not put on 70 and above engine's. #4 the clutch is not correct as the O.G. but a German replacment. #5 The B case engine is infact a AS21 Case that is Re stamped original B Case numbers that came from the original case. #6 the obvious additional oil filter set up.

Thanks to all that participated, and again thanks for the Compliments on this Build. She has just turned 10.000 mile's and is going strong---and is a great daily driver motor. with a mileage of between 34-36 Highway! 8) Eric (VMR)

Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:59 pm

Are you sure about the milage ?

Sat Oct 31, 2009 1:24 am

With a Minor in Engineering and a Major in Aeronautics I better be! 8)

Sat Oct 31, 2009 1:47 am

Nice engine , always a pleasure to work on super clean things 8) ....

Can I ask what is the cable/ spring type looking thing on the forward side of oil bath and where does the other end (not shown)connect?

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/478093.jpg

Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:36 am

Yeah! it is thermostaticly controled cable that is actuated by the thermostat, under #1-2 cylinder that inturn actuates the air deflector flaps which connected too the #1-2 cylinder side flap is an actuator arm which is connected to a push pull cable which is connected too the control flap on the aircleaner.

What this cable does is when the engine is cold the flap inside the aircleaner is closed or open to the hose leading from the air scoop on the #1-2 cylinder side too the aircleaner itself. The air pushed from the fan under the airflaps too this scoop is ram fed Practicly into the scoop into the hose up into the air cleaner. When the thermostat opens it actuates the the cable to close this flap and keep the scoop hose closed and open the aircleaner to normal induction air once the engine is warmed up. Theirs a picture of this in the Manual section of the Samba. Get to the 1970 Model year. Cheer's Eric 8)

Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:07 am

Eric,

Cool info 8) I don't think I have that cable valve on my oil bath possibly some years have it and some don't.

Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:46 am

Hey Glad I could help. Keep a look out for the Cable and Air deflector set ups. Yes it is hard to find a complete set ,yet not impossible. If your in the market for one put an ad on the samba, and or keep hitting Swap meets and internet.

VW's Engineers new what they where doing back in the day! My Personal Mottoe is " if it came originally from the factory with it, Then it needs to be on mine!" Depending on $$$$ Obviously. Good Hunting. Eric (VMR) 8)

Sat Oct 31, 2009 1:13 pm

Eric ?
With a Minor in Engineering and a Major in Aeronautics I better be!

what does this have to do with the mileage?

I have never heard of any vw getting that amount.

what all did you do to the motor, tranny, tires size etc.

Sat Oct 31, 2009 2:34 pm

Motor is Completely balanced! Rods,Crank=Counterwieghted. Pistons. Piston rod pins, which are installed in the pistons while balancing. Flywheel and Pressure plate, and pulley. I went as far as taking the cam Lifter's and balancing these as well, taking the lightest lifter of all 8 and getting each with-in a half gram of one another. I drove basicly in the Slow lane doing 55MPH= ( slow poke High way). When I was doing the Mileage check I was using at that time a Compu-fire ignition. This gave me better ignition, Than normal points. All this with out exceeding 55---60 MAXIMUM and at 60 not for long=staying at 55= was my target speed, Gave me 34.4 mile's to the Gallon my first tank after about's 2500 mile's on the motor.

At 6000 mile's I decided to replace all spark plugs. Got rid of the after market Carb as mentioned above and put on the 30 pict 3 with stock Jetting. Came across the correct ( last 3 digit numbers and letter O.G. Dizzey=205T) set timing at 7.5 BTDC. adjusted Valves, and checked tires inflated my Bia's ply's too 32LBS. Since my target or better was 34.4 MPG, I managed to slow poke better at 55MPH diligently and came in at 36.1 MPG
and ironically my heat range ran at a steady 180 F. So it is possible to get these number's. But, on today's freeway's not very practicle ( frustrating at times actually!!) at 55 mph----Yet!=Very doable!! Eric Cheer's :wink:

Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:58 am

Arent the 70's engine suppose to be timed at 0 degrees? not 7.5?

Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:09 pm

According to Robert Bently manual for the 1970 Thru 1979 it is infact 0 degree's for the 1970 Manual and automatic shift= that you speak of. However in this day and age, with differant Parts that are added to motor's Counterwieghted Cranks, differant dwell on distributors, Compufire ignitor's Pertronix Etc. Etc. as well as differant Cam's you have to go with whats best for your specific motor.

I tried setting my timing at 0 degree's and my motor ran so bad that I went to the next notch on my pulley which is 5 Degree's =Ran a little better! and finally I put it on the 7.5 and ran perfect. Just had to re-adjust Carb and all. I realized that timing was spot on when coming to a stop in 4 gear down shifting and =no Backfiring thru the down shift. Plus I had just a pinch more horse power.

So I guess in a perfect world with all Nos parts and all it may infact be 0 degree's which may have been spot-on. But in this day of aftermarket goodies, and differant parts and such that timing just isn't it for some if not many I would imagine! Cheer's

Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:30 pm

Eric ,

Why balance the pistons while mounted to the rod, seems to me that true balance would be done piece by piece. Also what surface did they machine to bring down the weight piston and rod or just one..... Scratching my head on this cause it just makes no sense to me :? ....

Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:39 pm

Probably should re-read my post!=Piston rod PINS, which are inst. in the pistons while balancing= the pins are uusually close enough in weight that its best to leave in the piston when balancing! Rods OBVIOUSLY must be balanced alone. Eric :wink:

Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:00 pm

Oh piston and pins no rod , sounded weird the word rod confused me......

So did the machinist give any feed back on how well VW balanced their motors? Was the balance close or was it way off?

Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:37 pm

VW Has/had Quality control as does just about any or all large manufacturing does. With that VW balanced their internals not so much as today's standards are concerned, but enough to allow the horizontal Flat 4 to do its job.

I read an article 20 plus years ago that read VW's of the mid 50's to early 60's had a Motor fail rate of a 1.8 percent of 20.000 motor's/unit's built. Which comes too 360 in total. I don't remember whom or where i read it, but remember thinking to myself that, that number probably consisted of individual owners not changing oil or adjusting the valves or, just running the shit out of the motor with no regard to maintenance. Thinking back thats pretty damb good given the amount of cars vw put out.