| gevmage |
Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:07 am |
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I pulled my engine last August as part of tracking down intake leaks and a stretching valve. I ended up replacing heads, pistons, cylinders. While I was in there, I replaced the oil pump (and blueprinted the new one), since the old one was terribly worn and had been put together with the wrong gaskets. (I didn't split the case, so everything in the bottom end besides the oil pump is intact.)
The engine went in the car last weekend. Yesterday, I put oil in the engine, connected the (freshly charged) battery and cranked the engine over a few times. The first time, it took several seconds of cranking before the oil light went out. After that, the oil light went out almost immediately when I started cranking it. In fact, after stopping the starter, the oil light would stay out for 5 or 6 seconds.
I have video of one of the later cranks yesterday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGJaskOwhV8&feature=player_embedded
I put the battery on the charger overnight last night. Just now, I put it back into the car, and cranked the engine again. It took about 4 seconds for the oil light to go out. The second crank today, it behaved just like above, the oil light went out immediately and then stayed on for 5 seconds after cranking.
SO--for those of you who build engines and have done first starts before...I assume these are all good signs? That means that I have oil to the bearings and the oil pump is sufficiently primed that it will oil itself when I start it? I'm also thinking that the fact that the oil light stays out for 5 seconds is good news for the oil pump and for the engine in general?
Ideally I would have done this test before the engine came out, but I didn't think of it at the time.
Thanks for any information. It's raining here, so it's unlikely that I'll be starting today, but I hope for tomorrow. |
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| 69 Jim |
Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:39 am |
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| How did you "blueprint" the oil pump? |
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| gevmage |
Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:41 am |
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69 Jim wrote: How did you "blueprint" the oil pump?
Sanded down the gears to the same height, and sanded the body to match.
Oh, and I sanded the cover until I could almost use it as a shaving mirror. |
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| gevmage |
Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:06 am |
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The reason I dug into the oil pump because since I'd had the car, the oil light had flickered at idle when the engine was warm. I finally got a test kit, and tested the oil pressure.
The spec is:
30 SAE oil
oil at 70 degrees C
2500 rpm
new is 42 PSI, wear limit is 28psi
In my test, idling in the driveway, I couldn't get the engine up to 70, it was only up to 62. So for my engine, before removal:
30 monograde at 62 degrees C
2500 rpm
oil pressure was 18psi
which means something was fairly wrong with the oil system.
It turned out that the oil pump was put together with the wrong gasket:
The oil pump cover was fairly badly worn:
And I don't have a photo of it, but the gear lash was significant.
Thus, I bought a new oil pump and made the tolerances smaller by sanding, to give my engine just that little extra edge towards working well. |
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