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Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:29 pm

1968 1500cc 019 distr. stock carb

Put alot of highway miles on the other night. Now it runs terrible.
When you start out, if you press the gas too hard you can hear the valves clicking.
Hardly no sound if you use gas sparingly. While moving in gear if you press the gas down it starts to clack again.
In forth gear it really doesn't want ot get much above 40 mph. if you apply gas you can hear the valves again with out getting much more forward speed.
Had put a set of points in the and things were going good until after the trip.
After the long ride I filed the tit off the one side of the ponint but it still runs the same.
Replaced the muffler gaskets last night because one rightside was leaking. changed plugs also, old ones looked good. Tanish on the right side, balck powder on the left, with no wet oil or oil build up except the black powder coat.
Was wondering if it could be the advance in the distributor?
Or if anyone had any ideas?
Thanks!

Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:57 pm

You need to do a few things. Adjust the valve lash. Every 3000 miles. If you had to file the points they need to be replaced. Always replace points and condenser together. Inspect the distributor cap. Replace it if it is burnt. After you change and gap points, Set the timing. 28 to 32 degrees at 3000 to 3500 rpm. Then you should be good.

Sat Oct 31, 2009 6:11 pm

I realize this might sound dumb but since I bought this car 5 years ago I have change the points and plugs dozens of times. I have never moved the timing, or adjusted the valves. and it has run like a champ everytime. This is a big change all of a sudden afterr the long drive. Maybe you're right but I think it's more than just a tune and valve adjust. Any comment. Yes I know about timing and adjusting it always along with valve gap. But might there be another possible problem? I will do as you suggest tomorrow morning, with see about the valve adjustment in the evening if it gets cool enough, because I will need to go to work Mon. am. Thanks!
PS I have another bug that I do tuning and timing and valves, so I not that I can't.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:46 am

Even with a crappy tune, I'm sure it would exceed 45 MPH.
Yes, No?

No other thoughts?

Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:32 pm

are you positive you're hearing valves clatter? could it possibly be pinging from pre-itnition?
in either case - redo the whole timing start to finish -
valves, points, check plugs and wires and rotor and cap.
set timing - then adjust carburetor -

good luck
Rev.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:53 pm

OK
Changed Point condenser found a better cao and rotor stratic timed it. Could not get to start. Put old condenser in, Still woundn't start, found another coil wire, still wouldn't start. Held coil wire just out if coil wire hole in distributer cap maybe .020 inches from metal plug ring inside coil. Waiting to a kick ass shock and not even a spark would jump the gap was happy not to get shocked. A little confused as to why it would go just between point changing. Although I did forget when I put the points in to put the moveable side of the points that get tightened behind the nut that goes thru the distributer body and is conected to the coil and the condenser. so it could have shorted the coil thru the distributer body? I wouldn't think so but maybe. So Now I'm left with buying a new coila nd go from there.

Anybody have any idea if a faulty coil could be the original reason for my original problem. or is this just a learning experience along the way :D
Any idea or thoughts would be helpful. even Idiot bashing is welcome if I comes with something learned.
Anyway will be getting new coil, wires, cap, condenser,and rotor tomorrow, after work.
Thanks for you help so far.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:46 pm

VW Vent wrote: OK
Changed Point condenser found a better cao and rotor stratic timed it. Could not get to start. Put old condenser in, Still woundn't start, found another coil wire, still wouldn't start. Held coil wire just out if coil wire hole in distributer cap maybe .020 inches from metal plug ring inside coil. Waiting to a kick ass shock and not even a spark would jump the gap was happy not to get shocked.
Try holding the end of the coil wire near (2mm) a ground. Distributor cap hold down usually works good. The with the points closed and the ignition ON open the points with a wood/plastic stick. This should cause the coil to discharge.

VW Vent wrote: Although I did forget when I put the points in to put the moveable side of the points that get tightened behind the nut that goes thru the distributer body and is conected to the coil and the condenser. so it could have shorted the coil thru the distributer body?
Not sure what you are describing here? Did you not tighten the points to the round plate the mount to? Or are you describing the grommet that the green wire runs thru to exit the distributor body?
Did you static time your distributor before trying to start it? If the test light was going ON/OFF then the coil was grounding correctly.

VW Vent wrote: Anybody have any idea if a faulty coil could be the original reason for my original problem. or is this just a learning experience along the way :D

A bad coil could limit your upper RPM and reduce power. I'd borrow the coil from your other bug to confirm before buying a new one.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:38 pm

ashman40 wrote: I'd borrow the coil from your other bug to confirm before buying a new one.
You smart man, wish I was. will take you advice tomorrow and better explain my previous mistake with photo.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:18 pm

Thanks for all the help. Bug has been running tiptop. Coil was oK still had issue with Contact attached to points, hot wire, and condenser, Fixed that, new wires, cap rotor, adjed valves ( didn't realise they were that far off, Nuber 3 had nbo gap on intake or exaust vavles, Etc. Just keep learning that my lazyness always stands in my way. But new iwres and such were the big difference.
So thanks again all.
Have a nice Veterans Day!

Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:58 pm

If Glenn doesn't mind me borrowing his picture?

One of my problems was twice grounding the points where they are attached to the bolt and nut, thru the distributer body.

Thank you Glenn!