| andrewsanteiro |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 11:34 am |
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Here's the deal:
I had the car running but not driving previous to the discovery of the lack of a clutch and pressure plate. SO, I dropped the engine, and installed a clutch and pressure plate. I found it to be a pretty straight forward installation, just throwing the clutch in their and pancaking it with the pressure plate and with the alignment tool in tightening the 6 or so bolts in cross patterns to 18lbs. (If I left something out please tell me, because it will need to be done.) While the engine was on the ground, I checked the valves for spacing. TDC and distributor pointing to the notch did 1, 180 counterclockwise 2 & so on to 4.
Then, mounted the engine back onto the body and connected all the loose wires that I had labeled. (3 to the generator, one down low under the carb into the case (oil something Im geussing) 2 from the body to the negative side of the coil spliced together on one terminal, 1 from the body to the positive side of the coil (guage/rpm i think), and one from the positive side of the coil to the distributor. Fresh synthetic 20 50 oil, and it cranks but not turning over.
(any and all changes I can think of)
I tried jumping the battery and that didn't solve the problem.
I poked around looking for random wires and that didn't solve the problem.
The only thing I have really changed I feel is the height of the fuel filter by a few inches (it currently sits in front (forward) of the engine just above the exhaust[the braided line was sitting on the exhaust itself and only a few inches from the actual filter, so i held it up with wire to get it away from the heat that I was hoping to be getting from the exhaust])
No head/tail lights are plugged in and I might of had the tail lights hooked up last time I had it turned over about 1 month ago. If that makes a difference.
Ideas?
EDIT: Just thought of the fact that before installing the clutch etc I didn't need to be holding in the clutch pedal to get the car started. Now I am wondering if that might be affecting the car from turning over, because I just guessed where the wing nut on the clutch cable should after feeling out the pedal a few times. Is this a possible cause? |
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| ctracing04 |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:34 pm |
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Does it not start or does it not turn over?
If it doesn't turn over manually then something is not put in there right. I've heard a few things where when the engine doesn't roll over manually or cranking it because there is a bolt that gets stuck on the tranny side due to a bad install of tranny parts. It should turn freely if in neutral.
If turning manually make sure to take the key out so we know ignition is off and you wont get hurt incase it decides to turn on. |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:45 pm |
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ctracing04 wrote: Does it not start or does it not turn over?
It cranks when turning the ignition. it will just not start. |
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| Cusser |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 1:06 pm |
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andrewsanteiro wrote: ctracing04 wrote: Does it not start or does it not turn over?
It cranks when turning the ignition. it will just not start.
Check that the wires on the coil are correct. The wire from the ignition should connect to the positive side, as should the wires to the carb electro-jet and choke heater. The coil negative side is for the green wire that goes to the distributor.
If it doesn't start, spray some aerosol starting fluid down the car, push down on the pedal, try to start it. If it runs (even for a few seconds), then your problem is fuel-related, not ignition-related. Did you hook up the fuel line again when you re-installed the engine? |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 1:55 pm |
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I tried spraying some carb cleaner (flammable) in the top of the carb and got a quick burst of ignition, but didn't last longer than the length it would take to burn up about two sprays of carb cleaner and quickly died out.
just a visual of my set up
^^how the flap sits ^^, should it be in a different position when starting or is that right
^^coil has poisitive side up and green attached^^
the cut-off jet is just filling a hole(broken) but shouldn't be a factor because it was running like that before.
I also noticed a terminal coming off the passenger side of the carb that was vacant(choke?), but also believe it was that way before when I had it running, so, shouldn't be a factor(but of coarse could if you know better than I which is probably the case).
Fuel lines attached. Is the position of the line affected by gravity at all or does a pump take care of this? |
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| Georgia rebel |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:16 pm |
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| try pouring a little bit of gas in top of carb in the main intake part. then keep trying to crank it, it may take a couple of times to get the fuel pump to start pumping. that is if all your wiring is correct. i assume it is if you got a start off of that falammable fluid, that means your are getting spark but no feul.. i just had to do this, as with all older carbed engines. once they get empty and dried out its pretty much like priming them... |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:45 pm |
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| Gas in the carb about 10-15 times cranking then fillling etc etc and got it firing. Rock n roll... now the installed clutch wont really engage.. I got it to budge barely with my foot completely off the clutch pedal but not really moving. ill start a new thread for that one. Thank you all |
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| Georgia rebel |
Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:25 pm |
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| and yes that flap is not in the right position that is the choke flap. it should be all the way open, if its warm if its really cold it should be like that. |
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| pafree |
Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:53 pm |
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andrewsanteiro wrote: ... now the installed clutch wont really engage.. I got it to budge barely with my foot completely off the clutch pedal but not really moving. ill start a new thread for that one. Thank you all
sounds like the wingnut on the clutch cable is too tight. there should be a little bit of freeplay in the clutch pedal. |
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