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Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:11 am

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this hex bar linkage set up? I was also wondering if i have to remount my coil if i use this one?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D1551%2D28

Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:55 am

I had a similar linkage that came with my ICT kit. Never could get the geometry right, the carbs would bind and no go back to idle without an overly large spring installed. I switched to this.....

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C15%2D30050

The SCAT push-pull linkage. With the hex bar you have to relocate your coil, with the push-pull you don't. Also, my hex bar linkage (from Bugpack I think) caused too much of a bend in my throttle cable.

I strongly recommend the push-pull linkage, but that's just my opinion.

Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:24 pm

CB performance hex bar has held sync and performed flawlessly for me.

Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:40 pm

thanks i was thinking more along the lines of the push pull anyway but i liked the look of the hex bar better for some reason. But i really dont think i feel like relocating my coil because i have already powder coated all of my tins and dont want to have to redo them. thanks for you guys input though!

Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:26 pm

The problem with "push/pull" linkage is that it doesn't allow for the "growth" of the engine...remember, we set stock engine valve lash at .006"...why, because the engine "grows as it warms up...same reason you never put a fan belt on tight, you always install it a bit loose, to accommodate the vertical "growth" of the engine.

Back in the 70s, "push/pull" linkage was all that was available...nice idle speed cold, increased idle speed warm.

Since then, I have ALWAYS used hex bar style linkage...it accommodates the growth of the engine.

Push your coil down a bit...there is a screw and nut that allows this.

I have used hex bar style linkage on T-3 34 ICTs, T-1 40 DCNFs, and T-1 40 IDFs...I've NEVER had a problem with changing idle speeds.

Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:39 pm

BGEE68 wrote: The problem with "push/pull" linkage is that it doesn't allow for the "growth" of the engine...remember, we set stock engine valve lash at .006"...why, because the engine "grows as it warms up...same reason you never put a fan belt on tight, you always install it a bit loose, to accommodate the vertical "growth" of the engine.

Back in the 70s, "push/pull" linkage was all that was available...nice idle speed cold, increased idle speed warm.

Since then, I have ALWAYS used hex bar style linkage...it accommodates the growth of the engine.

Push your coil down a bit...there is a screw and nut that allows this.

I have used hex bar style linkage on T-3 34 ICTs, T-1 40 DCNFs, and T-1 40 IDFs...I've NEVER had a problem with changing idle speeds.

verticle "growth" of the engine?quit rubbin yer fanshroud BGEE

Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:47 pm

No problems at all, though I did have to add a second set of return springs (one on each carb), as the ones that come with the kit are a bit too weak to pull the cable back through. The kit came with a coil relocation bracket, which I obviously didn't have a need for.

Since finalizing the install, I've had exactly zero issues with this setup.

I can post pics of the second springs and how I mounted them, if you'd like.

Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:14 pm

johnnypan wrote: BGEE68 wrote: The problem with "push/pull" linkage is that it doesn't allow for the "growth" of the engine...remember, we set stock engine valve lash at .006"...why, because the engine "grows as it warms up...same reason you never put a fan belt on tight, you always install it a bit loose, to accommodate the vertical "growth" of the engine.

Back in the 70s, "push/pull" linkage was all that was available...nice idle speed cold, increased idle speed warm.

Since then, I have ALWAYS used hex bar style linkage...it accommodates the growth of the engine.

Push your coil down a bit...there is a screw and nut that allows this.

I have used hex bar style linkage on T-3 34 ICTs, T-1 40 DCNFs, and T-1 40 IDFs...I've NEVER had a problem with changing idle speeds.

verticle "growth" of the engine?quit rubbin yer fanshroud BGEE

How about horizontal growth.

Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:24 pm

CB hexbar,ICT's

horizontal growth? that would be girth Jim...any woman who tells ya "its not the size of the wave its the motion of the ocean"is a liar....

Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:29 pm

:shock:

Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:01 pm

what does the relocation bracket look like on? I dont want my car to look tacky. I already have over a year of work in the restoration/customization and im plannin on showing it quite a bit when i get it done which wont be too long from now. And the color of the bracket doesnt matter as i will probably powder coat it anyway.

Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:32 pm

twmcbrid wrote: what does the relocation bracket look like on? I dont want my car to look tacky. I already have over a year of work in the restoration/customization and im plannin on showing it quite a bit when i get it done which wont be too long from now. And the color of the bracket doesnt matter as i will probably powder coat it anyway.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=349

Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:55 am

twmcbrid wrote: what does the relocation bracket look like on? I dont want my car to look tacky. I already have over a year of work in the restoration/customization and im plannin on showing it quite a bit when i get it done which wont be too long from now. And the color of the bracket doesnt matter as i will probably powder coat it anyway.

I just dug through my 'extra parts bin' (thing is flippin' huge, now...) and found it - it's a cadmium-plated bracket that attaches to one of the fuel pump studs, or possibly the dizzy hold-down stud. Not sure which! Looks like it's meant to hold the coil horizontal, versus upside-down as original. Don't know if that matters or not.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:14 am

I pulled the fanshroud,removed the coil and relocated the coil bracket lower on the shroud and ran the coil with the wire up.Coils are filled with oil,dont know why VW runs them upside down,but you can run them in any postion.Be careful if you relocate the coil bracket on the shroud,the shroud has louvers inside,hit a louver and youll have to re-drill.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:18 am

Alister wrote:

No problems at all, though I did have to add a second set of return springs (one on each carb), as the ones that come with the kit are a bit too weak to pull the cable back through. The kit came with a coil relocation bracket, which I obviously didn't have a need for.

Since finalizing the install, I've had exactly zero issues with this setup.

I can post pics of the second springs and how I mounted them, if you'd like.

I am using a bugpack setup similar to this. It needed a spacer added to the carburetor lever on the 3-4 side to make up for the setback. Without the spacer the heim joints got in a bind. Added an additional spring to improve throttle return. I also extended the cable lever to improve the alignment. After reading several other posts on this subject, I'm not the only one to make these modifications. And yes, the coil had to be relocated. Maybe one day I'll get to open the box, bolt on the part (without modification) and drive away with a big stupid grin on my face. :?

Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:13 am

By the way - that Scat serpentine setup is well worth it. Much easier to change/adjust the belt!

Unless, of course, one has mastered that 5-second belt change... I saw that video and wished I hadn't done the serp belt after all!

Were you referring to the carb's throttle arm or the shaft arm? My kit came with throttle arm extensions, that bolted to the throttle shaft. No troubles with binding whatsoever.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:13 pm

so would you guys recommend the SCAT brand or BUGPACK brand of hex linkage?