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Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:24 pm

Thanks for the link aryue. But I doubt I'd switch from Wilson's proceedure :wink: . The only real difference is the higher RPM. 2,000 is high enough for me. Whoever doesn't do the run in is missing a great experience. An engines first breath is like a babies. Hang it by it's feet and slap it's backside. Let's compare notes in about 10 years.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:22 am

I just had a brain fart...on assy the engine. When installing the insides you line up the dots on the crank and cam can you install the disturber driver at the same time cause it is a pain in the back side to install it after the engine is assy?

Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:30 pm

No need to fart around. But there is a very good potential of the engine being a turd unless it is well built. Wilson gives instructions on setting the drive gear even while the cam is still in the box that it came in. There's more good stuff involved with the gear than just getting it timed. Better to build an engine by the book or else just go buy an engine. If you buy one make sure it has a good warantee to assure it will last at least a year. If you totally follow all of Tom Wilsons instructions you won't need a warantee. It will be good for many years. Or don't follow his instructions and buy another car that runs.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:48 pm

Who is this Tom Wilson?

Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:08 pm

He's the author of "How to Rebuild Your Air-Cooled VW Engine". Someone recently posted a picture of the book. It costs about $17.

I consider it as totally absolutely must have before doing any work whatsoever on a long block. Also even if someone bought a new engine from some builder and it was built any differently than what Wilson say's I'd find a different builder.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:16 pm

Here you go-
Actually the top of the picture is cut off.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:04 am

^^^^^
Another awesome VW resource.
Got mine today brand new for $12 :) Lots of good pictures and directions.
Get it, you wont regret it.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:07 am

^^^^very much so^^^^

And maybe even more realistic is that if you don't get it you Will regret it!

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:54 am

My 1975 Westy, 235-2111-197 , is FI (ED015827). To check oil pressure after my rebuild, I attached the trans with the starter to the engine while on the garage floor, pulled the spark plugs, filled the oil galley / filter and turned the engine over. Got just under 60psi, came up to pressure within 15 seconds. Your battery voltage will determine the cranking speed / and ultimately pressure.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:47 am

Quote: Who is this Tom Wilson?

Great book. When I did my first aircooled rebuild I followed this book to the T. First, I read the entire book before starting anything. Then, as I built the engine I followed the instructions. After each shop session, I went home and re-read the sections I completed that day after clearing my head to make sure I did everything correct. If I found I missed a step, I went back and did it over. Engine fired first time and ran amazing. Everyone building an aircooled engine should have this book, unless you have built more than 100 or so.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:24 am

Where can one find this book?

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:39 pm

I got mine on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0895862255/sr=8-2...mp;seller=
Probably the best price your going to get...if you don't mind a slightly used one, you could get it for around 12 dollars.
Hope that helps...Peace.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:41 pm

foxtail1 wrote: Where can one find this book?

Probably most of the online parts suppliers that have a big selection of all VW items. I just looked in a AirheadParts catalog and they had it. Most of our VW parts stores around here have it. I recently bought another one from BAP for $17. Gave the old totally worn out one to some young guys that hadn't been having much sucess with their internal engine work.

A side note: Sorry to hear of your situation of the future loss of your mechanic which you have been so pleased with. We have also been both loosing and gaining some here in the valley. When people ask for a recommendation it's getting more difficult. I notice that in your case the best thing that you have going for you is owning a '71. Every part of it is easier and cheaper to maintain. In addition to the widespread use of our common upright engines we even have wiring diagrams that are easy to follow :lol:

Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:59 am

well i got the solex pdsit carbs for it i just need the intakes and the linkage now. and i also picked up an AH long block for $10 a few months ago that engine coming along fine its in scary good shape for sitting 20 years.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:48 am

hello, i need to ask another question. my bus has 2.0l but the case is a 1.8l rebuilt with 2.0 parts. it has the original tranny. i was wondering wht sized clutch?. its time i swap out the engines because the bus blows blue smoke, and barel idles and i even pulled my drla's off and cleaned them nd that didnt even work.