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Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:07 pm

Randy in Maine wrote: Nice job!

My only suggestion would be to run the CHT wires at the same time, even if you are not ready to do the gauge right now. I used the dakota myself but the vdo or whatever also have specific wires that fit their needs.

Thanks.

Regarding the CHT, I think I'm okay. I am using a VDO gauge. I won't have to cut the ThermoCoupler wire. I am going to use the loom to extend the red and black wire.

I was following this thread and I believe I should be okay.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=96367&highlight=cht+wire+length

With Dakota wiring, i think you have to use their wire.

Casey

Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:30 pm

go with the european style terminal strip:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId...p&sr=1

screws do not loosen with vibration, don't fall out.

CHT: thermocouples are made of two wires that create a voltage when heated. Weird alloys like Chromel and Alumel and Constantan.

these wires create two more thermocouples when connected to copper wire. Thermocouple extension wire is NOT the wire thermocouples are made of. It is wire that does not create extra junctions when connected to hermocouples. doesn't take solder well.

somewhere that thermocouple wire connects to a module that compensates for the two extra junctions. A reference junction compensator. You can connect to that module with copper.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:34 pm

i did not read the thred ,but use hard tubing like the kind used in new plumbing than u can run any thing u want fast and easy.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:50 pm

Mal evolent wrote:
Thermocouple extension wire is NOT the wire thermocouples are made of. It is wire that does not create extra junctions when connected to hermocouples. doesn't take solder well.

Thermocouples and TC extension wire are the same wire.

Type K 1/8" button head TC's - We use these imbedded into brake pads and rotors during vehicle and dyno tests. Positive conductor is NICKEL-CHROMIUM (Ni-Cr), negaive conductor is NICKEL-ALUMINUM (Ni-AI).

Top is kapton insulation, bottom is fiberglass insulation.

Type K TC Connectors.

Type K extension wire - Same conductor material but uses a standard insulation because it is not near the heat source. Positive conductor is NICKEL-CHROMIUM (Ni-Cr), negative conductor is NICKEL-ALUMINUM
(Ni-Al).

Check out the Omega web site for all your temperature measuring needs.

Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:23 pm

I am planning on installing seat heaters... I will run a wire from back to front into a fuse box but I can't see where to connect the hot wire (did I stupidly order the wrong thing?):

Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:27 pm

Not neccessarily, if you can link all the terminals together on one side of that it'll work fine. Can you twist them 90 degrees and bolt a strip of copper across all of them? Or solder on a daisy chain of heavy wire?

Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:46 pm

Yeah I see what I did... this is meant to replace inline fuses so I could still use it b/c I have inline fuses running for the Clock, Radio, and, soon, two Seat Heaters. I guess it is better to have all your inline fuses in one place?

I see what you're saying but I'd feel more comfortable buying something pre-made. Oh, well... at least it was only like $4 and I can use it still.

busdaddy wrote: Not neccessarily, if you can link all the terminals together on one side of that it'll work fine. Can you twist them 90 degrees and bolt a strip of copper across all of them? Or solder on a daisy chain of heavy wire?

Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:50 pm

chabanais wrote:

I see what you're saying but I'd feel more comfortable buying something pre-made. Oh, well... at least it was only like $4 and I can use it still.

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=3928
http://www.amazon.com/5028-Blade-Fuse-Block-Cover/dp/B000K2MBPA

Those are a couple. My local autozone also carried 4 and 6 Fuse Distribution Blocks next to the fuses... so you may get lucky at a store like that.

Casey

Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:52 pm

Thanks I should have ordered a Fuse BLOCK! Appreciate it.

Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:03 pm

Bringing this thread back to life in the hopes that somebody could clarify a few things for me. I've already installed a DD CHT gauge, and I'm now in the process of installing the DD oil temp and pressure gauges. The 14 gauge trailer wire loom has been run from front to back.

What is the best/cleanest way to now power the gauges? I like what C. Ryan did with the terminal blocks, but I want to verify that things will work if i run single wires from the terminal block in the engine bay to the senders and similarly use a separate hot wired fuse block up front to power the gauges.

Is this a better route then trying to tie the two additional gauges to the CHT power source as well. I believe I used the aux. fuse location for the CHT.

Thanks!

Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:47 pm

Gauges don't use alot of power, tying 2-3+ together isn't going to cause a fire (assuming you understand electricity :wink: ) and one fuse should handle them all.

Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:29 pm

Thanks busdaddy. That is what I will do then....makes things easier.