TheSamba.com :: View topic - Anyone make there Super look more like and older Bug ?

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:30 pm

iowegian wrote: julrich366 wrote: That monstrosity made baby Jesus cry! :cry:
Really???
You must be speaking of Jesus the Mexican (pronounced HEY-soos).

Go Doyers!

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:31 pm

Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Ever rebuilt a real engine?
Only my daily drivers, my race cars, my show cars, and some friends cars in the last twenty years... :roll:
MoparFreak69 wrote: Its a fact air cooled engines run hotter, ESPECIALLY #3 in a bug because of oil cooler blockage. Oh wait, only veteran dubber can know that right?

Maybe the air-cooled VW engines you've built have run hotter than a water-cooled. Mine don't. 190 degree oil temp and 225 degree cylinder head temp. And #3 only runs hotter in early-style non-doghouse engines. The doghouse cooling system takes the oil cooler out of the way of #3 cylinder. But you knew that, right?
Oh yeah, so my doghouse cooler thats on the car right now with the oil cooler standing right above #3 is a fluke huh?

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:34 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: Yellowbeard wrote: The fucking thing was designed to be easily removed!

Sounds like somebody is getting upset.
You'd have to step up your game considerably to get me upset.
MoparFreak69 wrote: So you are saying I literally ONLY have to remove 4 bolts to get the engine out. I dont have to deal with the weather seal that is probably stiff and in the way. The fuel line can stay connected. Dont have to disconnect the coil at all either. The generator can stay connected. Those heater box clamps, they just remove themselves so dont worry about that. The remote oil cooler lines, they can stay there, no need to worry about them huh? Oh and not to mention the engine has been in the car for 20+ years so there is probably no grease or grime or rusty bolts anywhere. Everything just finger tight huh?

You know better. You don't get a cookie around here for having an engine out in 30 minutes. Wanna impress us? Get it out, R&R the clutch and get it back in in 30...

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:38 pm

HURRAY a decent response from yellowbeard!
I'll accept your challenge and film it for you when I get to that stage! I know I can replace the clutch in this beast in 30 mins easy. My trusty impact will zip the bearing/nut right off (fought it the first time til I got the "gun") and in with the new flywheel and clutch. I will even do it without taking the engine out from under the car!

Yeah yeah so that may be a bit farfetched but a bullshitter can dream cant he?

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:38 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: 19super73 wrote:
That's "Purist MOFO" if you must label me. :roll: While I always say "It's your car, do with it what you like." you are fooling yourself into thinking you can take a $350 car and make it into exactly what you want for a total of $3000, even if you are going to do all the work yourself as you claim. You're already at a G note and counting and you haven't worked through the mechanical, brakes, paint and on and on...

Ok, Purist MOFO if thats how you want it. Makes no difference to me.
Either way I am doing how I envision it and nobody is going to change that. I am into the car a grand right now. That includes everything needed to slam it and stop it. Engine is 75% done, also in that G. New jugs/pistons/rings/pins/intakes. Have Kadrons ready to be rebuilt and have kits, also in that grand. Only thing I am missing engine wise is top of cylinder tins and a few pieces of linkage. Trans feels fine with the exception of a shift fork pin missing/broken. Axles are good as are rear brakes. Front discs also in the grand im into it. Lets see, brake lines $25 a Napa, I will bend and flare them myself. Brake hoses $40 at a local supplier built to my specs. Fuel tank, Cleanout, $25 at a local shop. Wiring, just needs a little tlc but not much, easily done for "free". I have found a ragtop roof complete except cloth for $500. Cost to install it - free. If all else fails an aftermarket ragtop recommended by several dub friends runs $500 complete. Paint and bodywork, I'll do myself. Probably spend $400 on paint to get the good stuff.

How much will you be advertising this "almost complete; just ran out of motivation" project for in a few months? Just curious.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:40 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Ever rebuilt a real engine?
Only my daily drivers, my race cars, my show cars, and some friends cars in the last twenty years... :roll:
MoparFreak69 wrote: Its a fact air cooled engines run hotter, ESPECIALLY #3 in a bug because of oil cooler blockage. Oh wait, only veteran dubber can know that right?

Maybe the air-cooled VW engines you've built have run hotter than a water-cooled. Mine don't. 190 degree oil temp and 225 degree cylinder head temp. And #3 only runs hotter in early-style non-doghouse engines. The doghouse cooling system takes the oil cooler out of the way of #3 cylinder. But you knew that, right?
Oh yeah, so my doghouse cooler thats on the car right now with the oil cooler standing right above #3 is a fluke huh?

Not a fluke. You're confused in your terms. If your oil cooler is bolted directly to your engine, it's not a doghouse. If it's bolted to an adapter plate that moves it out of the way of #3 (and it's considerably larger), it's a doghouse. If your fan shroud is smooth on the backside, it's not a doghouse. If it has a 'doghouse' on the back, with ducting to route hot air from the oil cooler out of the engine compartment, it's a doghouse. Check it out.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:42 pm

Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Ever rebuilt a real engine?
Only my daily drivers, my race cars, my show cars, and some friends cars in the last twenty years... :roll:
MoparFreak69 wrote: Its a fact air cooled engines run hotter, ESPECIALLY #3 in a bug because of oil cooler blockage. Oh wait, only veteran dubber can know that right?

Maybe the air-cooled VW engines you've built have run hotter than a water-cooled. Mine don't. 190 degree oil temp and 225 degree cylinder head temp. And #3 only runs hotter in early-style non-doghouse engines. The doghouse cooling system takes the oil cooler out of the way of #3 cylinder. But you knew that, right?
Oh yeah, so my doghouse cooler thats on the car right now with the oil cooler standing right above #3 is a fluke huh?

Not a fluke. You're confused in your terms. If your oil cooler is bolted directly to your engine, it's not a doghouse. If it's bolted to an adapter plate that moves it out of the way of #3 (and it's considerably larger), it's a doghouse. If your fan shroud is smooth on the backside, it's not a doghouse. If it has a 'doghouse' on the back, with ducting to route hot air from the oil cooler out of the engine compartment, it's a doghouse. Check it out.

I'll check on it as I may have been misinformed on that one. I was told that all the supers have the doghouse.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:44 pm

Tram wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: 19super73 wrote:
That's "Purist MOFO" if you must label me. :roll: While I always say "It's your car, do with it what you like." you are fooling yourself into thinking you can take a $350 car and make it into exactly what you want for a total of $3000, even if you are going to do all the work yourself as you claim. You're already at a G note and counting and you haven't worked through the mechanical, brakes, paint and on and on...

Ok, Purist MOFO if thats how you want it. Makes no difference to me.
Either way I am doing how I envision it and nobody is going to change that. I am into the car a grand right now. That includes everything needed to slam it and stop it. Engine is 75% done, also in that G. New jugs/pistons/rings/pins/intakes. Have Kadrons ready to be rebuilt and have kits, also in that grand. Only thing I am missing engine wise is top of cylinder tins and a few pieces of linkage. Trans feels fine with the exception of a shift fork pin missing/broken. Axles are good as are rear brakes. Front discs also in the grand im into it. Lets see, brake lines $25 a Napa, I will bend and flare them myself. Brake hoses $40 at a local supplier built to my specs. Fuel tank, Cleanout, $25 at a local shop. Wiring, just needs a little tlc but not much, easily done for "free". I have found a ragtop roof complete except cloth for $500. Cost to install it - free. If all else fails an aftermarket ragtop recommended by several dub friends runs $500 complete. Paint and bodywork, I'll do myself. Probably spend $400 on paint to get the good stuff.

How much will you be advertising this "almost complete; just ran out of motivation" project for in a few months? Just curious.

For you only $10K!

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:45 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Yellowbeard wrote: MoparFreak69 wrote: Ever rebuilt a real engine?
Only my daily drivers, my race cars, my show cars, and some friends cars in the last twenty years... :roll:
MoparFreak69 wrote: Its a fact air cooled engines run hotter, ESPECIALLY #3 in a bug because of oil cooler blockage. Oh wait, only veteran dubber can know that right?

Maybe the air-cooled VW engines you've built have run hotter than a water-cooled. Mine don't. 190 degree oil temp and 225 degree cylinder head temp. And #3 only runs hotter in early-style non-doghouse engines. The doghouse cooling system takes the oil cooler out of the way of #3 cylinder. But you knew that, right?
Oh yeah, so my doghouse cooler thats on the car right now with the oil cooler standing right above #3 is a fluke huh?

Not a fluke. You're confused in your terms. If your oil cooler is bolted directly to your engine, it's not a doghouse. If it's bolted to an adapter plate that moves it out of the way of #3 (and it's considerably larger), it's a doghouse. If your fan shroud is smooth on the backside, it's not a doghouse. If it has a 'doghouse' on the back, with ducting to route hot air from the oil cooler out of the engine compartment, it's a doghouse. Check it out.

I'll check on it as I may have been misinformed on that one. I was told that all the supers have the doghouse.

You already mentioned (in another thread) that for some odd reason the car had a single-port engine. When they trash-canned the dual-port engine, they probably took the doghouse with it.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:46 pm

I did mention it had SP heads. It is an AE block so its a factory DP block. The only thing I am missing to make it DP again is the top cylinder tins. But if I have the wrong/early style shroud I will want to look around for a doghouse to ease #3 hot problem.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:52 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: I did mention it had SP heads. It is an AE block so its a factory DP block. The only thing I am missing to make it DP again is the top cylinder tins. But if I have the wrong/early style shroud I will want to look around for a doghouse to ease #3 hot problem.

Don't forget the 'Hoover bit', the doghouse ducting, and the forward (front is front) tin.

And as long as you keep all the seals/tinwork in place and don't get carried away with your compression/timing, there's nothing terribly wrong with non-doghouse cooling. If you're cooking #3 cylinder, you've got a lot worse problems than an oil cooler preheating #3,

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:55 pm

I'm not going with any heat in the car so the external ducting wont be present. I have all of the rest of the tins that wrap the cylinders including the intake screen/port for the cooling fan. I havent had any problems with overheating as this is my first, but a few people around this area have mentioned it (due to burning valves or melting plugs on #3) probably because we are usually well over 100 degrees in the summer months.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:56 pm

This was inevitable.

"Next time, don't bring a knife to a gun fight".

MoparFreak69, may I suggest that you start a topic in the "Reader's Rides" forum and post pictures of your car and its progress.