TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:31 pm

Well, I have been away from the samba for a while, but last time i posted i had a problem with my bug grinding in reverse. We came to the conclusion that the gear needs to be replaced. Now here is the hard part:

I am seriously considering replacing this gear myself. Everything else works just fine in the tranny so I feel confident in tackling this part of it.

I really don't want to spend a ton of money for a mechanic to do it for me....
Is it a good idea to try?
Is is difficult to do?
Do I need special tools?
How long might it take?

I am worried about the possible consequences of screwing up...
I rebuilt the engine but it was all definite...no special tweaks or adjustments.

Advice? thanks

Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:12 pm

Does it grind reverse when trying to go into second? Even just grinding reverse. The plate under the shifter might need replacing too. You might just be looking at a shift rod bushing replacement. Actually a really easy project (did mine this wknd and took one hour). It is a good project too because you can sand and relube all your shift rod parts.

See this forum:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...p;start=60

Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:23 pm

I have absolutely no problem going into second at all. It goes in reverse just fine for about 2 feet, maybe 3, but then just grinds. Doesnt really pop out much at all though...it does on occasion.

Would a shift rod bushing goin bad cause me to grind in reverse but not all the other gears?
What else could possibly be wrong?
More advice? thanks!!

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:32 pm

I think it could. I would definately start with the bushing and checking the shift rod coupling unit under your back seat. They do wear down and if they have never been replaced, they should be. It is an easy job to do and even if it doesn't solve the problem, you avoided a future problem, trouble shot that solution away, and got some maintenance done. Also check your reverse lock out plate for wear under the shifter. Doing all of this is also very cheap....

Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:37 pm

It would definitely be a good idea to check your shift rod bushing as it begins the problem of reverse not engaging properly. If the shifter rod is not correct then you may not be able to fully engage the small reverse gear on the syncro that it rides on, so you end up with only half the gear engaged. It is a weak little gear and gets rounded off on one side, thus it will work for a litlle bit and then pop out of gear.

In order to replace the gear yourself isn't really difficult. Since you have built a motor then you understand cleanliness and getting all the parts back in their particular order. It doesn't take any special tools to get to the point of the reverse gear. Just use new gaskets, seals and snap rings (you will probabely bend the old ones). While your in there adjust the reverse gear to mesh correctly also. Sometimes people push too hard to try and keep it engaged which can move it out of place on the shaft.

I just replaced mine 2 months ago.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:09 pm

how can I check if my shifter bushing is worn or not properly working?
and how do I know if The coupler under the backseat is worn or broken?

Also, what is te reverse lockout plate and how could it be the problem? how might it be chcked?

Thanks for the quick replies. Keep em comin! because so is winter weather and I don't want to be doing this in freezing cold.

Thanks!!

Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:22 pm

If you look at the pics on the forum in my previous post you can see pictures of all of the parts.

The reverse lockout plate is right under the stick shift. Pay attention to how you take it off and be sure to put the new one or old one back the same way.

Bad Coupler Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxm6F2s-Lps&feature=related

Good Coupler Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tmy1U8QDvc

The bushing, I would just assume is worn and replace it. If you haven't done it, or know that it has been done, then it is probably worn or in lots of pieces. I would just go ahead and get a new one and do it. They are super cheap. Remember to get the bushing and the bushing clip.

You could probably replace all the components all the way through for about $25. Just check your local shop or online they are plentiful: http://www.jbugs.com/category/vw-shifter-boots.html

I would sand down the shift rod and re-lube it too...I think this is a real added bonus to doing all this maintenance. You might be surprised at how much surface rust could be on the shift rod.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:29 pm

More resources:

Shifter Bushing:
http://www.vw-resource.com/shifter_bushing_replacement.html

Shift Rod Coupler:
http://www.vw-resource.com/shift_coupler.html
http://www.vw-resource.com/coupler.html

Stop Plate/Lockout Plate:
http://www.vw-resource.com/stop_plate.html

Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:49 am

Have done it (as in tear apart the transmission), I also have good used parts from another transmission if you need them. Possible that the gear itself is worn, together with the mating portion on the 1-2 slider, if this is the case, fixing it will mean you need to have a press, to remove the shafts and gears.

The Long Enterprise's CD provides lotsa pictures and gives tips on what to look for when you're trying to fix problems.

On some years the reverse parts are different. Good to know what you have 1st. You are also gonna need a jig in order to assemble the whole shebang back together again. This jig can be made from a scrap transmission case (that'll mate to yours of course).

Good luck with your winter project.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:14 am

ok so I will definetly look into replacing the bushing and the coupler now while I am replacing the reverse gear in the tranny.

i don't think they are my problem with the reverse though... I have no problem shifting into reverse, just grinding after a couple feet of backing up. I was told I just need toreplace the worn gear, but might as well do the bushing,etc while I am under there.

The bentley manual I have says that replacing the reverse gear would require no special tools for my year (74 super). It never says anything about the 1-2 slider being worn out as well...

Is the slider part of the problem, or will everything still work ok if i just replace the gear itself?

Is the gear hard to do? thanks!

Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:02 pm

If the slider is worn so bad that just replacing the reverse gear won't solve the problem then you will need a new or rebuilt transaxle. You could send yours in to a reputable vw trans shop and have it done. I have rebuilt these transaxles in the past when I had the right equipment and jigs. It isn't something you should do in a home garage (not saying that the right person couldn't). Most likely only a small portion of the slider gear is rounded off as the reverse gear does not have hardened teeth and the slider does (vw would prefer to only have to fix an easy gear also).

Make sure when you pull off the side plate(s) that you make sure to mark them as position and side off case. Also don't mix up any of the shims. They are there for your pinion mating squish. Don't wash down the gear set when you take it apart with degreaser just wipe it down. On a "broken in" trans it will be better off. It is tempting to think you are getting all of the debris out of it but in reality you are taking the impregnation of the oil out of the unit and will increase the wear of the parts when you go to run it again.

How many miles on the trans?

Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:49 pm

mulewright wrote:
. Don't wash down the gear set when you take it apart with degreaser just wipe it down. On a "broken in" trans it will be better off. It is tempting to think you are getting all of the debris out of it but in reality you are taking the impregnation of the oil out of the unit and will increase the wear of the parts when you go to run it again.

That's crap. If it were true, nobody would wash any trans parts during a rebuild.

Clean it however you want, the new oil will coat the gears.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:58 pm

74restore wrote: how can I check if my shifter bushing is worn or not properly working?
and how do I know if The coupler under the backseat is worn or broken?

Also, what is te reverse lockout plate and how could it be the problem? how might it be chcked?

Thanks for the quick replies. Keep em comin! because so is winter weather and I don't want to be doing this in freezing cold.

Thanks!!

I am sorry but you should not dis-assemble a transmission until you have more experience.

IRS transmissions are dirt cheap. just replace it with a used one, much less grief, less time, maybe less money

Sun Nov 08, 2009 2:47 pm

thanks for all the help. Anyone know where I can find a used/rebuilt IRS tranny for a 74 super pretty cheap? thanks

Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:45 pm

i have the same exact problem with my 74 right now, i'm glad i found your post.. it's been bookmarked for when i pull the motor and then i can see what my problem is too

thanks for all the suggestions! 8)

Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:50 pm

74restore wrote: Anyone know where I can find a used/rebuilt IRS tranny for a 74 super
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/cat.php?id=29

Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:51 pm

the same problem too w/ my 74 sb. no problem any gears even reverse jus the griding sound when reversing. help us please. :cry:

Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:02 pm

Quote: the same problem too w/ my 74 sb. no problem any gears even reverse jus the griding sound when reversing. help us please.

This thread has a bunch of diff things to check in it. I would start checking on some of them and report. We all have to help others help us by giving as many details and ruling in or out suggestions.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:02 pm

anyone else got some ideas on where I could get a used or rebuilt irs tranny pretty cheap?

to those who have entered this thread witht the same problem: read the previous post thse nice folks put up. They got a lot of good info. It may be just the gear and slider, or maybe the bushing....just gotta read up, and then get dirty.

Thanks for posting. keep em comin! :)

Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:35 pm

http://www.google.com/#q=vw+irs+transmission&o...834e645580

Don't know your budget, but if I were going to replace, I would go with an actual rebuild by a pro rather than one that has a claim to "run" off a parts car. Word of advice too, if you do go with a vendor, look them up in the buyer/seller feedback here first.