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Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:13 am

here is the first couple pics i've taken of my baja project. i in the first stages of the build. I used an older pan so i have the option of link pin down the road if i want. probably use a ball joint for now though. I already welded in irs gussets, relocated the heater cable and ebrake cable tubes in the frame horns, now i'm in the process of putting late model tunnel part the holds the ebrake and heater lever, also the shifter location is further back which i like better than the early model so i'm using that also. i would of used the irs pan i had, but the tunnel was severly rusted in some major spots so i chose to go this route. so far so good.

watch out for my thumb!

I guess this body don't fit so well, lol

just though i would share my stuff. i'll keep posting more pics as it continues. hope you all like it.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:06 pm

if you used a link pin pan only a link pin beam will fit the frame head> that is without modification or a trick you have up your sleeve!

Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:09 pm

I spot a traxxas revo.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:26 pm

If you cut off the two lower tabs on the link pin frame head and drill two new holes for the bolts a ball joint will fit, the lower tube is just a little bit lower. and use thru bolts with nuts on the backside. done it before. works great. i'll show some pics later.

and yes there are actually two revos, just got into them this spring. love them. lots of fun.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:35 pm

finished my tunnel today. pics are kinda blurry. also put in a couple pics of what i was talking about with the ball joint on a link pin pan. still need to clean it up and fill in the holes.

this is my old baja. seen better days.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:54 am

I picked up a 3 inch body lift a couple yrs ago(no bolts or spacers) just wondering if i could order bolts from a parts house or just a fastner shop? I'm going to stop by a fastener shop today and see what they have and for how much. the spacers i figure i'll just fab up out of some pipe.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 12:33 pm

found some bolts at the fastener shop. cost about 22 bucks. nickle and dimes suck!!

Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:12 am

I think this would be a long baja build thread. I'm looking forward to see the progress. 8)

Mon Nov 16, 2009 3:32 pm

man it seems like i'm never going to be done cutting/welding/grinding. this is alot more work than i thought. Oh well hopefully it all comes out well. I'm about half way done fabbing up my body lift. i'll post some pics soon. i'm building it out of .095 steel. when i install it on the pan should i weld it to the torsion housing? or do you think it matters? I plan on tieing my cage and side nerf bars into it. don't know if i should just bolt the nerf bars to it or weld to it? what do you all think?

Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:18 pm

O.K. so here are some pics. the first is where i welded up the holes on my frame head. Now i can bolt up either a ball joint or link pin front end.

and here is some pictures of my lift that i'm fabbing up. it's only about half way done so far. I'm trying to keep everything the same shape as the pan the best i can. this is the piece that goes over the hockystick. i didn't like the cheesy one that came with the lift.

here is a few different shots(angles) of what i've gotten done so far.

what do you think? I'm pretty happy since i don't have a whole lot of welding/fabbing exp. i'm learning a lot though.

I do have some questions. the piece that fits over the front tunnel that came with my lift is different dimensions than the rest of the lift. it is 5/8 inch shorter than the rest of the lift. what gives? could i have gotten screwed when i bought the lift? i want to fab that piece also but unsure on what to do? should i keep it 3 inches like the rest of the lift? or make it 2-3/8 like what it is now. Here a couple pics.
this is the original piece that goes above front tunnel 2-3/8"

this is the original body lift 3"

this is the two pieces stacked, you can see the difference. it's huge.

Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:17 pm

Your measuring it wrong. You have to measure vertically as it would sit on the pan. Remember that section you have your ruler on is at an angle. So your ruler will not be 90 degrees to it when you measure. Dont know what the angle is but guessing 30 ish degrees. ?get the picture?
If you measure the section at the top of the curve (center), it should measure out ok.

Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:34 pm

good call. that makes sense. thanks. I'll have to check the rear piece. i may have to redue it.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:52 pm

last night i almost got the passenger side of my lift done then ran out of gas for my welder. :cry: So i stated cutting out the pieces i need to fab the front piece over the tunnel. lots of fun. going to get more gas today. got lots of stuff to do, hopefully i'll be out there by 6 to start working on it again. I wish i had a drill press for all the holes i have to drill in it. just have to use the good ole dewalt

Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:01 pm

so i got my lift pretty much done. just got a couple small welds, clean it all up, drill holes, then tack it all together(make it one piece) and then test fit. cross your fingers. here is some more pics.

this is the old lift... me no likey

see how the piece above the hockey stick is all cheap.

and along the sides of the pan, has crappy welds and it's not shaped like the pan.

here is the one i built

took some time but it was worth it.

if you look closely you can see that i followed the pan shapes the best i could. I should be able to weld it all together when i'm done, and then weld a cage or whatever i need to to it. Hopefully i'll get some time friday to work on it. if not it will sit till monday. :cry:

when i go to put it all together i was wondering if i just got a lot of urethane or silicon and gooped that all over the pan, lift, and body if that would seal good, of if i should do two belly pan gaskets and silcone or urathane or something? any opinions?