TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:29 pm

RLAP must be done, I saw his car for sale in an advertisement. Those look like motorcycle(dirtbike) shocks to me. They are usually fairly high quality, and long lived. If my torsions were weak I wouldn't hesitate to try em out. Some lift, and additional spring at the same time, rebound is going to be the big question!

Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:21 pm

ZARJDR wrote: RLAP must be done, I saw his car for sale in an advertisement. Those look like motorcycle(dirtbike) shocks to me. They are usually fairly high quality, and long lived. If my torsions were weak I wouldn't hesitate to try em out. Some lift, and additional spring at the same time, rebound is going to be the big question!

okay i'm ignorant. what is RLAP mean?

Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:40 pm

RLAP is "runslikeapenguin"

Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:01 pm

ahhh.

so was talking with my brother in law today about when it comes time to paint. he suggested i use single stage instead of base then clear, he thought it would be easier to repair, less expensive, and i wouldn't be so upset when i scratch the shit out of it blazing trails and stuff. what do you all think? cost is an issue, and like is said i'm not looking for a show stopper paint job, just something that is durable and looks nice.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:37 am

bump

no body as any paint info? am i the only one who lives on my computer?

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:43 am

uno? i rattle canned mine! cheep and easy to fix!

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:48 am

thought about that route. who knows? still might. really would like a nicer paint job though. rattlecanned a baja yrs ago and by the end of summer you could really see lines from the rattle can spray pattern.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:20 am

Rustoleum and a roller.

Easy to touch up.

J/K.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:08 am

I"m going with a single stage paint on my baja. It is alot cheaper and way more durable. Ask your local paint store to check out thier industrial coatings. The only thing I"ve noticed with the single stages I've sprayed, is that stuff is sticky and gets everywhere.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:13 am

so make sure my shop is masked off well so i don't get paint all over my crap.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:20 am

Yup and get yourself a paint suit and a good respirator. Also I"d practice with the single stage first, it can run pretty easily. Dunno if your shop is heated, but you'll want some heat, it'll really cut down on the drying time.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:30 am

If the paint runs, there are 3 types of runs.

A normal run, which is like a tear running down a cheek.
A curtain, which is a wide run.
And a drape. (Drapes touch the floor)

The first car I ever painted, was a bug. I got a run started, and tried to smooth it out with the gun.
I ended up with a drape. It ran off on the floor. Actually had the least orange peal on the whole car.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:51 am

BajaPete69 wrote: Yup and get yourself a paint suit and a good respirator. Also I"d practice with the single stage first, it can run pretty easily. Dunno if your shop is heated, but you'll want some heat, it'll really cut down on the drying time.

got the respirator, need to pick up a paint suit(cheapy, cause i'm cheap) as far as heat, i'm trying to figure that out. i posted this in the paint forum, if anyone would like to give me they're opinion that would be great, was going to look at the "reddy heater" this weekend.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=398339

thanks for help guys

Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:01 pm

Single stage is fine. Single stage urethane is incredibly tough, but a bitch to repair and or remove. Industrial enamel SUCKS. Despite the name it remains rubbery and will show scuffs, it is thick and needs to be sprayed with larger orifices on your gun. My vote is and always has been that my bajas were painted with epoxy based primers. Multiple colors available including custom mixed. Very durable, low sheen(matte) super easy touch up, and it looks like an off-road car! My 002c

Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:24 pm

tried to fix a couple holes in my roof,should of just bondo'd them. now they are full of waves and shit. oh well, chalk that one up to learning body work. I'll do what i can , but don't look under the roof rack when done. haha
also, good news/bad, well not so bad, news:
can't work on the baja til wed. helping a friend who does commercial flooring for some fast cash. I'm sure there are some electricians out there rolling in there graves knowing i'm working for a floor guy. J/K haha he's my best friend and would of done it for free, but he know's i'm hurting for $$ so he's helping me out. can't be grateful enough.

Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:00 pm

I did the same thing on one of my rear side panels and wished I had left it alone. The welding didn't warp it to bad it was the grinding of the welds that killed it , is that where you had problems?

Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:10 pm

yeah probably, i think once you get grinding you forget about heat and get impatient.

Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:54 am

got my fuse boxes in the mail today. the are tiny. maybe 1-1/4" wide and 4" long, but hold 8 fuses, covers are nice. none of the fuses are jumper together on the line(feed or input) side though. i'll either have to make some kind of jumper or get some terminal strips and run jumpers . if anyone has ideas for that? more work, but i want it to be clean and solid. nothing like running into electrical problems in the middle of a mud hole or hill climb. i'll post some pics when i get them figured out and temp fitted in the firewall.

havn't been able to touch the baja since last week. it's killing me, but i think i might get in an hour or two tomorrow. sucks though it will just be more bodywork. I should be able to get a full day in friday though, maybe even a half day or more this weekend.

found a way to heat my shop for when i get ready to paint. turns out my buddy has a small wood stove sitting in his backyard, i need to "borrow" it and pipe it through my window for when i paint, when the baja's done i'll make a permanent spot for it in my shop though. I figure if i can get my living room close to 100* when i screw up and load too much wood in my wood stove i can keep my shop between 80 and 90 easy with a stove in it.

Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:28 am

chubby53 wrote: i'll either have to make some kind of jumper or get some terminal strips and run jumpers . if anyone has ideas for that?

Gum wrappers :lol:

If it's a flat connector like stock you could cut a piece of copper pipe, flatten it, and solder it to all, otherwise buy a sheet of brass and bend u-shapes from pin to pin. Maybe solid copper core (household wire) wire pushed through each pin and soldered?

Thu Feb 11, 2010 8:41 am

i did some diggin last night and found some terminal strips that are rated for 30 amps w/jumpers for pretty cheap. and i think they are fairly small so won't take up a lot of space. the way these fuse box's are the terminals are actually recessed inside of the fuse box, so it would be hard to solder anything to them. know if there was a 'Y' connector like the female, male, male ones i've seen on vw's, only female, female, male and it was spaced right that would be perfect. I'm going to try a couple shops today and see what i can find. you never know what's out there. I also had thought about getting some big ass butt connectors and going from a #10 down to two #12's right before the fuse box, cause most of the jumpers i need are just two fuses off of one wire. like the tail lights, headlights high and low, kc's, acc, always hot pwr, ect...
the nice thing is i have plenty of time to get this figured out.
i'll try to get some pics tonight of what i got so far.