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Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:19 am

Re-assembling my engine. 2.0L FI. I had disassembled it to service heads and cylinders. Heads have been re-built, cylinders honed, and new piston rings installed.

On disassembly, I tried to remove the distributor. I noticed it was stuck, and didn't want to budge. I didn't force it, figuring I would get to it later.

Well tomorrow night will be later. I was wondering if anyone had tips for removing a stubborn distributor.

I have loosened the nut on the clamp that holds it, but it won't turn or move at all. I'm a little nervous about using a pry bar in there as I don't want to break anything. Should I stop being a wuss and pry it out, or does anyone have any better ideas.

I have removed it in the past, but it has been sitting several years since I last did so.

Thanks,

DJ Roberts

Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:22 pm

If you can get a screwdriver in to spread the clamp a little it helps.Or try removing the nut that holds the clamp to the case,and you can take it out as a unit.If you need to pry a little,go side to side.Good luck

Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:23 pm

Do not pry it! You should not need to use that much force.. The bolt thru the clamp often bends when overtightened so when you loosed it, it does not loosen. You can see if its bent then use a big flathead to force the clamp apart. Or remove the M8 nut that holds the clamp to the case then twist and pull a little and it should come right out along with the clamp.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:03 pm

I have seen the distributor corrode into the case, no fun at all :? Lots of PB blaster and maybe carefully grabbing it close to the bottom of the fat part with a giant pair of channel locks, twist, twist, twist a little at a time.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:13 pm

I hope that's not it Busdaddy! If it is, maybe it is stuck in the right spot and I can leave it :lol: ...or not

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:44 pm

did you split the case?

If so can you put a hardwood dowell into the drive gear hole and tap it? I am inclined to believe that all you need to take the 8mm nut off the bracket and also loosen it where it goes around the dist. Then open it a little with a screwdriver etc. Then grab the body with both hands and start GENTLY wiggling and twisting. I know that the O-rings harden and lock in place sometimes. Sometimes you can get two screwdrivers under the bracket and rock each side upwards a little, alternating between sides.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:49 pm

As Kevin stated...

Why not just undo the 13mm nut holding the bracket and distributor to the case and remove it all as one unit? :? I do it all the time, much easier than fighting the distrib and o ring through a pinched clamp.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:40 pm

Ok, tonight was the night. Bus Daddy was spot on.

I had already loosened the bracket as much as possible, and removed the nut holding the bracket on. I tried gently prying on the bracket, but it was clear that was going nowhere.

I busted out the big pliers grabbed the outside of the distributor (after removing the condenser). At first the pliers slipped, but eventually I got them to take hold. It took a several minutes of turning, a 1/4" at a time, then it was 1/2", and soon it was free. Woo hoo!

Took it out and gave it the once over. The points were still adjusted to .016! But the wire from the distribtor to the engine was bubbled like it had overheated at some point. Probably best to replace points and condenser after this long anyway.

Anything else I should look for while I have it out? It is a single vacuum Bosch distributor.

DJ

Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:47 pm

Congratulations, if the green wire was cooked have a good look at the thin woven copper strap that grounds the breaker plate to the distributor body, if it's burnt in half you will have major ignition issues.

Maybe put some grease on the distributor after you clean up the shaft area so it doesn't do it again.