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Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:44 pm

RIOMX wrote: Hopefully the bastard..... in true bus d*ck move fashion, .......@#$% dammit! Couldn't expect any less from it,

Kick it in the nuts and it'll either run around with it's tail between it's legs or else bite your a$$. :lol:

Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:45 am

Well, just when I thought all was finally well, more trouble seems to be brewing.

The engine is now idling excessively fast at idle. Whenever I'm at a light, it's idling so fast I am just expecting it to explode at any moment.

Add to that the fact that I don't get any more heat whatsoever in the cabin and that makes me a very exhausted and disappointed bus driver.

I quit...for now at least.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:08 pm

RIOMX wrote: Well, just when I thought all was finally well, more trouble seems to be brewing.

The engine is now idling excessively fast at idle. Whenever I'm at a light, it's idling so fast I am just expecting it to explode at any moment.

Add to that the fact that I don't get any more heat whatsoever in the cabin and that makes me a very exhausted and disappointed bus driver.

I quit...for now at least.

Sounds like a vac leak. Does it happen with your foot on the brake?

As for your heat issue. Check to make sure your booster fan is running. If so, you may want to remove both heater flap junctions to verify the flaps are opening/closing.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:10 pm

RIOMX wrote:
Funny thing is, my bus was probably a hardtop riviera. It was ordered as a bare-bones Kombi and converted to a camper. There are all sorts of holes indicating that camping gear had been installed at some point.

Same deal here, except mine was from the factory a 1975 1800cc dual carb auto panelvan. An odd combo from the start. Then it was converted to a camper by a company that did campers on an individual basis to spec. I have only found maybe 3 others in existence. The interior was wrecked in all of them due to water damage. Wish I could say I was surprised. Bought mine with no cupboards etc. but still with the Z bed.
The notable oddity is that it has a window on only one side of the back section, as they had to fit windows and had no use for a window behind a wardrobe!

I feel for you with those idle issues. I'm had at work fighting motor demons too.

Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:39 am

RIOMX wrote:
The engine is now idling excessively fast at idle.

I don't get any more heat whatsoever in the cabin

that makes me a very exhausted and disappointed bus driver.

The factory dual carbs require the factory distributor with dual advance.
Your fast idle is because you do not have the necessary vacuum retard after you switched out the original distributor.

I am sorry the heater control boxes were scarfed off the engine. They delivered fine heat with the original booster fan.

I am available for consultation PM here or over there with a phone number you can be reached at if you have any questions.

Exhaustion and disappointment can be banished so long as you are armed with non-speculative actual knowledge. Avail yourself.
Colin

Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:48 am

Amskeptic wrote:
The factory dual carbs require the factory distributor with dual advance.
Your fast idle is because you do not have the necessary vacuum retard after you switched out the original distributor.

No, I asked Painter's grinding to repair the ground strap and use the original distributor.

I think it's the accelerator cable getting caught in the underbody. My buddy Jon said that he noticed there was a kink in the tubing that it runs through and I'm going to swap it out when I get a chance to go back to his shop.

Quote: I am sorry the heater control boxes were scarfed off the engine. They delivered fine heat with the original booster fan.

No worries. I managed to source some good flapper boxes in decent condition. Jon sold me a NOS left heater pipe, and I got the right side heater pipe from Troy's 74.

We think that my aftermarket accordion tubes might be restricting airflow, especially after they were compressed to fit between the flapper boxes and the heater channels on my bus. They used to fit fine when I was using beetle heaterboxes, but now they're pretty tight. I'm going to put some original tubes back on and see if it solves the problem.

Quote: I am available for consultation PM here or over there with a phone number you can be reached at if you have any questions.

Thanks Colin. Much appreciated. I'll be in touch if I have trouble again.

Quote: Exhaustion and disappointment can be banished so long as you are armed with non-speculative actual knowledge. Avail yourself.
Colin

That's the goal!

Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:54 am

RIOMX wrote: No, I asked Painter's grinding to repair the ground strap and use the original distributor.

Why you would take your bus, and Colin's engine to Painter's is beyond me...they are *******

Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:02 am

73kombi wrote:

Why you would take your bus, and Colin's engine to Painter's is beyond me...they are *******

Ok, dude. You've made your point. I honestly could care less what you think of Painter's, so save yourself some time and don't post about it again.

They did a great job of getting the engine proper, fixing some wiring issues we had missed, and ensuring that fuel delivery was working as it should.

It would have been great to have the accelerator cable taken care of, but I can do that myself and they only did what I asked them to do, which was the above.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:00 am

Got the high idle taken care of. The rubber tube which protects it and runs above the transmission through the rear tin was way too long and getting kinked. I still have to adjust the pedal a bit, but at least the bus is idling normally.

My heat, however, still isn't working. I made sure that the flap control boxes were open and the lever was fully lowered when I caught them with the barrel nuts, but still no heat when I'm driving. Another issue is that the clip that holds the cables in place under the dash is missing...so I tried to use a zip tie and it didn't work.

Anyway, here are photos of the transplant:

Getting the gloves on...

Draining the tank and replacing bad vent lines

Months after replacing the filler neck and fuel filler neck with pb24ss (Dan), it's still holding up just fine

The transmission getting some much-needed love and attention prior to the swap

NOS passenger-side 72-74 heater pipe

Checking vacuum lines

Introducing the motor to its new home

Empty bay with newly-repaired battery tray and former AC hole. Still dirty...didn't get a chance to pressure wash, but hopefully can do it if we repaint the bus this summer

The crazy guys behind this whole operation, and whom without the heart transplant would have never been possible.

Mounted and getting there...

I got the alternator cover plate from BUGBUS66

Couldn't get the timing sorted out, so off it went to Painter's Grinding

Finally installed and running in its new home. I got my used heater blower motor from 091 Tobin.

Big thanks to Dan for helping me get the engine and pitching in time to install it. He never liked me having a Type 1 in the back of the bus, and now that I'm back to a Type 4, I can hopefully keep up with his bus on the drive to the next camping trip :D

Also, huge thanks to Jon Stiles for doing awesome metal work to repair the holes in my bus, for letting us use his shop, and for spending a mind-bending 36 hours helping me out with the bus from beginning to end. If you could get a degree in VW Buses, Jon would have a PhD. There's hardly anything that this man doesn't know about VW Buses, from mechanical differences right down to small, minute parts between the years.

My bus is much happier now thanks to these guys, and I hope to have many long drives and great memories with the "new" engine!

Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:28 am

The pipes you have pictured that run from the heater boxes to the flapper valves, are they stainless?

Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:43 am

Wildthings wrote: The pipes you have pictured that run from the heater boxes to the flapper valves, are they stainless?

Not sure, I'll have to ask Jon. I wish I could have gotten both new, but Jon only had the passenger side.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:14 am

RIOMX wrote: Wildthings wrote: The pipes you have pictured that run from the heater boxes to the flapper valves, are they stainless?

Not sure, I'll have to ask Jon. I wish I could have gotten both new, but Jon only had the passenger side.

That is just shiny new metal on that connector pipe.

The earlier Type 4 buses had a straight shot of hose from blower to heater box oval inlet pipe. Are you using a late model plastic detour style to avoid the air filter mount? I had the original quick-release clamps on those hoses which allowed for fast access to the battery. Are they still around?

So, Crabb Cranky here was all freaked out over the high idle, and it turned out to be the throttle cable sheath?

Try running the heater booster fan with the plastic accordian ducts off the heater boxes. Levers should be fully forward. Feel for a blast of hot air coming out of the heater control valves. If there is a good hot breeze, your lack of heat will likely be elsewhere. The distribution box is a good place to check out. It is directly under the aisle and has dual doors that deflect all heat forward or to the passenger cabin floor vents. A lot of people do not realize that the cable end fits into a stationary tab, and the lever movement actually moves the cable sheath that operates the lever atop the distribution box.

Please tell pb24ss I said Thank You for all of his work and effort, and I sure would appreciate a PM.
Colin

Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:40 am

Amskeptic wrote:

The earlier Type 4 buses had a straight shot of hose from blower to heater box oval inlet pipe. Are you using a late model plastic detour style to avoid the air filter mount? I had the original quick-release clamps on those hoses which allowed for fast access to the battery. Are they still around?

I wanted to get around the air filter mount and I liked how the plastic detour gets the hose out the way on the right side.

I did have one of the clamps on the left side, but the right side was missing, so Jon sold me one. He had almost every piece of hardware I was missing. It was like being in a giant Type 2 treasure chest.

Quote:
So, Crabb Cranky here was all freaked out over the high idle, and it turned out to be the throttle cable sheath?

That seems to have been it! I definitely wanted to keep the original distributor, and made sure that it got to the shop so they could use it.

Quote: Try running the heater booster fan with the plastic accordian ducts off the heater boxes. Levers should be fully forward. Feel for a blast of hot air coming out of the heater control valves. If there is a good hot breeze, your lack of heat will likely be elsewhere. The distribution box is a good place to check out. It is directly under the aisle and has dual doors that deflect all heat forward or to the passenger cabin floor vents. A lot of people do not realize that the cable end fits into a stationary tab, and the lever movement actually moves the cable sheath that operates the lever atop the distribution box.

Thanks a lot for the tips. I should have done this at Jon's shop while I had the chance on Friday night, but I'll have to wait until it's a little warmer out for me to check.

Quote:
Please tell pb24ss I said Thank You for all of his work and effort, and I sure would appreciate a PM.
Colin

I'll let him know to get in touch with you, if he doesn't see this post first.