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Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:43 pm

This topic has come up before, but I couldn't find a satisfactory answer.

The rear passenger wheel on my Super has about 4 degrees negative camber. The rear end has a slight amount of sag, but I don't think this has anything to do with the spring plates since the driver's side wheel isn't affected as much, and I understand that IRS cars should NOT have camber in the rear. Do I have a bent trailing arm or torsion bar? Something wrong with my brake/axle assembly? I just can't figure it out. I would leave it alone except that it's wearing out the tread on the inside of the tire.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:51 pm

Could be the pivot bushings smushed....That'd do it

Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:55 pm

I have the exact same problem. I can't stand looking at the passenger side because of it. I can't see anything underneath that is bent or distorted.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:04 am

you'd be surprised how much camber you can adjust when playing with the three (or 4) spring plate mounting bolts.

At first i thought there is no way camber could be effected / adjusted. but - with the car on the hoist, me underneath, snap-on alignment lasers pointed - it was amazing.

so - sounds like the spring plate bolts went out a little.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:55 pm

westcoast-paul wrote: you'd be surprised how much camber you can adjust when playing with the three (or 4) spring plate mounting bolts.

At first i thought there is no way camber could be effected / adjusted. but - with the car on the hoist, me underneath, snap-on alignment lasers pointed - it was amazing.

so - sounds like the spring plate bolts went out a little.

Where are you talking about, the plates on the torsion bar housing or back where the spring plates bolt to the axle assembly? I've taken them apart several times and can't recall any adjustment that could be made to affect the camber.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:14 pm

I hope westcoast-paul is correct.
After rebuilding the rear suspension on my 1972 I have noticeable Pos. camber on the driver side. I am getting ready to take it for alignment and was under the impression that camber could not be adjusted without playing with the indexing of the torsion bar. Which of course would change ride height which I presently have where I want it.
Anyone know more about this?

Sat Nov 07, 2009 3:15 pm

Any one else know anything about this topic?
Comments?
Westcoast- paul, any more info?
I am really curious about this issue with camber in the rear on IRS suspension.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 3:58 pm

You can rotate the assy on the spring arm a little. If you loosen the bolts you can twist a little one way or the other and this impacts camber.

On my project, I lowered about 2" in the rear. I actually slotted the holes a little to get it pretty close to 0 degrees. My understanding is some Porsches have the spring arms slotted for this reason, but I don't know that first hand - just read it on Samba. So yeah - this can make a different, but make sure the diagonal pivots are as they are supposed to be first.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 4:32 pm

The camber can be affected by tilting the TA relative to the spring plate. Tilt the rear of the TA up, you get positive camber. Tilt it down, negative. Slotting the holes will get you more range.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:21 pm

Bruce and andk...
My spring plates are slotted horizontally for fore and aft adjustment.
Are you both suggesting that the holes are large enough to allow vertical movement between the the Diagonal arm and spring plate? I did not look real close at it while apart as I saw the obvious horizontal elongation in my 3 hole spring plate. ( 1972 ).
Good news for me if this is the case!
My right side looks fine. Must have just lucked out when I installed that side.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:46 am

There is some clearance vertically in the bolt holes. Most likely you will have to slot them more. I recommend you slot the holes in the TA. That way your spring plates don't end up with giant holes in them.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:17 am

There is some vertical play in the existing holes and it may give you enough. If not then - enlarge the holes on the spring plate a bit to see if you get what you need. VERY VERY IMPORTANT - make sure you you enlarge the correct direction. Aks me how I know :oops: You can do it without removing the diagonal arm. Pull the shock and jack it up as high as you can.

If slotting gives you enough, great. If not, then you may have to do the diagonal arm. I left the one hole closer to the torsion spring alone and used it as the pivot poin, but you could also enlarge it to get more twist if you need it.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:02 pm

andk5591 wrote: - enlarge the holes on the spring plate ....
Bad idea.
If you slot the spring plate holes vertically, you end up with a big giant hole since they are already slotted horizontally. Any washer you put on that big hole will just bend in and you'll never get a proper bolt torque. Eventually the bolts will loosen up.
Not a good thing.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:08 am

Bruce - I could swear that I had seen Porsche trailing arms with enlarged holes.
I am not saying hog it out an inch - just the play in what is there can make a bit of a difference. Going another .060" may be plenty to do what they need. Also - Mine are the dual spring plates. Should have mentioned that as well.

Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:34 am

andk5591 wrote: Bruce - I could swear that I had seen Porsche trailing arms with enlarged holes.
True. They also have washers that are about ¼" thick. Good luck finding that at Home Depot.

Wed Nov 11, 2009 2:34 pm

Fastenall has them though......