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Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:30 pm

I did a search but didnt find what I was looking for. If this question looks familiar please point me in the right direction and I'll read.

I an trying to decide what type of pushrod tubes to use. I have seen 2 specific types. One type is the OEM style, although they seem a bit flimsy to me I cannot compare as my old ones were rusted and broken. Should they be fairly thin and lightweight or should they have a little heft to them (im talking grams, not pounds lol)?

The second type I saw was a plastic 2 piece that had a spring to keep the halves tight to the block and heads. There appeared to be enough seals for each end and between the 2 halves. Anybody used these? Any good?

Thanks in advance.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:35 pm

Are you rebuilding the engine? Pulling the heads?

Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:00 am

Yes, its already apart. Have new stock P&C's for it already and am getting ready to put her back together. I will be picking up new valve springs this afternoon so I was hoping to get a reply by then so I can get the pushrod tubes at the same time.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:25 am

The stock-style pushrod tubes are very thin, but they work just fine. Use new seals.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:53 am

Under NO circumstances should you use the plastic 2-piece version. The plastic gets very flimsy when the engine warms up. If you want to use some that you can remove without removing the head, use the aluminum ones with the spreader nut in the center. But if you are removing the heads anyway, I would use the stock ones. They work very well for a long time.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:29 am

I have been using the plastic 2 piece on this engine for the last 20years without issues.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:24 am

OEM ones are much better for cooling the hot oil from the heads going through them.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:17 am

Quote: [quote="richpin56"]I have been using the plastic 2 piece on this engine for the last 20years without issues.

Your's must be better quality. The only ones I've seen bend and warp and seem like they'll fall off at any time.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:55 am

I used stainless steel ones on my 1914 I recently built. Supposedly the white silicone seals are the ones to get. I did stainless because I hate how the stock ones rust. And it has been posted that they can be reused.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:01 pm

Great, thanks for the info guys. I don't know if my local guy has any stainless in stock but the tin ones they sell come with the white silicone seals so sounds like those are my choice.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:03 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: Great, thanks for the info guys. I don't know if my local guy has any stainless in stock but the tin ones they sell come with the white silicone seals so sounds like those are my choice.

Tip to avoid leakage issues: The tubes are supposed to be installed a bit longer than necessary and compressed when you torque the heads down. If you start out with them the correct length, they'll leak like a sieve.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:18 pm

Yellowbeard wrote:
Tip to avoid leakage issues: The tubes are supposed to be installed a bit longer than necessary and compressed when you torque the heads down. If you start out with them the correct length, they'll leak like a sieve.

Gotcha. I had heard that before you install them to stretch them a little bit like a crinkle straw so that when you torque the heads down it compresses them and gives them a bit of spring.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:57 pm

MoparFreak69 wrote: Gotcha. I had heard that before you install them to stretch them a little bit like a crinkle straw so that when you torque the heads down it compresses them.

Yup.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:09 pm

Install "seams" up. :wink:

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:43 pm

What is the oil path through the heads?

Does the oil pass through the combustion area through the valve guides and in to the valve cover and back down the pushrod tubes to the lifters...or do I have the order reversed? Or completely out of whack?

M

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:47 pm

Oil comes up the pushrods through the hole in the middle. It just splashes around up there via the rocker arms and just flows back to the sump through the tubes.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:48 pm

69 Jim wrote: Install "seams" up. :wink:

The ones I saw appeared to be seamless but if they were just turned in the packaging I will be sure to do just that!
Wouldnt want oil seeping through that lol. Talk about frustration trying to troubleshoot huh?

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:59 pm

Makes sense. Thanks Mopar.

I had always wondered about plumbing returns from an external cooler through the top valve cover. On a Type4 (where I would be especially concerned about head temp) This might buy some extra degrees of cooling.

Comments?

Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:10 pm

Stainless Pushrod tubes are really good. They are a harder metal and dont lose their memory as easily. Yes to the silicon white seals. If you can not get the stainless then stock are next in line as far as performance for sealing. Seams up of course. The reason these work better is that there are less seals to leak. O-ring seals are great squished and stay but wear with movement such as when a motor expands from heat.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:37 pm

webwalker wrote: Makes sense. Thanks Mopar.

I had always wondered about plumbing returns from an external cooler through the top valve cover. On a Type4 (where I would be especially concerned about head temp) This might buy some extra degrees of cooling.

Comments?

I guess you could, but probably wont see much of a difference in engine temp. Maybe a slight increase in wear resistance on the side you plumbed it back through just on account of the extra oil flow but I don't really see much gain from doing that. I could be wrong though!