TheSamba.com :: View topic - 71 Double Cab - New Owner and the newby-est question ever!

Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:34 pm

Hey, that is real nice Jim. I've got a real soft spot for DC's.

Very first thing get the Bentley Service Manual. Also I'm not sure what the funny stuff is on your carb. Even stranger is that seems to be some aftermarket intake manifold. Not stock. Everyone will start to yell so I'll mention that you should get the fuel filter away from where it is. You can refer to the FIRE Sticky at the top of the forum. Also the 009 should be timed at 28-30 degrees BTDC at 3,000 or so RPM. That's where you want it at full advance. They arn't timed at idle. Although you can check it to make sure it is working and getting advance. An 009 isn't your problem. Maybe you can do better with others but 009's can work great. That's what I run.
Get the manual! :wink:

Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:13 am

Nice bus and the best year. I am envious.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:00 am

So I am getting ready to jump back into it. I left it last night with the dash torn apart looking for the root of my turn signal issue (see that thread for details). I ended up replacing the hazard light switch, and might replace the instrument array if I can get the damn steering wheel off. The wiring is a mess with household wiring used as jumpers and weird add ons and splices. Really bizare stuff here.

Could someone take a pic of the dash and explain the heater levers and what color knob goes where? And why are there two light switches? One is obviously for head lights... but the other one?

Bays are weird critters...

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:02 am

the other light switch should be for the rear cabin light methinks

i still need to get around to this steering wheel removal too. Anchovy knows:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=310527&highlight=steering+wheel+removal

Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:15 pm

Ok... next up is the dash levers that control the heat and fresh air(?). It looks like there are supposed to be four levers (two red and two blue) that share two vertical slots. What goes where andwhat are they 'sposed to do? Also, do I have a heat auxiliary fan/switch?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:28 pm

There is no need to remove the steering wheel to acess the signal switch or the instrument cluster.
The second light switch with the splayed out rays coming from the light is for the rear dome light.
Didn't look at the link I posted for the owners manual, did you?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:47 pm

I hit a MAJOR snag today. I was changing the spark plugs and in the #1 cyl there is a heli coil that came out with the plug. :( So I cleaned the plug up and re-installed it. Plug #2 and #4 were fine but #3 is stripped and wont hold, so thats gonna be another helicoil. At this point I am ready to cry. I needed this to be a running driving car for work and now its gonna be at least two weeks before I can tackle it. :( :(

So very bummed.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:07 pm

Use a timesert and you're back in business.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:06 pm

I went to my local FLAPS and got a 14mm tap and insert kit. I used a vacuum and a ton of grease on the tap to minimize shavings into the cylinder and away I went. After it was all back together I took it for a drive. New plugs, cap.rotor, points, valve adjust... It runs pretty good. The oil that came out during the oil change was gnarly. Black sludge. Tomorrow I am hitting up a Lube n Tune joint for them to drain and refill the tranny. I can only imagine whats in there.

Now if only I can get rid of that damn stumble/hesitation on the low end... I am hoping it is just my not timing the 009 right. :roll: I want a stock distributor anyway....

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:49 pm

This falls under the category of First Rule for all VW's --- Do no Harm! You need to think twice about every thing you do to or put in/on your bus(changing your Trany fluid could cause your trany to die with in 100-300 miles)

I understand the urge to get the fluids changed ASAP! but from my personal experience GL5 = all you can get from your local quicky Lube places, can damage your transmission… it is an other very controversial subject: some say GL5 is just a better GL4 but that is not so… they have different additives that affect the yellow metals in a 70’s T2 Trany and you could quickly find your self needing to replace your trany…

It would be a great idea for you to read what Richard Atwell has to say about T2 Buses ;0)

www.ratwell.com

I use Redline MT90

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:53 pm

riebes on Auburn Blvd up near the Freeway (where it turns into Riverside) has Stalube GL4. Buy a couple of gallons and a small punp and take it with you. Based on the work you are doing you should be able to do the change yourself. If you need the allen wrench I'll lend one to you.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:25 am

jimmynotch wrote: I went to my local FLAPS and got a 14mm tap and insert kit. I used a vacuum and a ton of grease on the tap to minimize shavings into the cylinder and away I went. After it was all back together I took it for a drive. New plugs, cap.rotor, points, valve adjust... It runs pretty good. The oil that came out during the oil change was gnarly. Black sludge. Tomorrow I am hitting up a Lube n Tune joint for them to drain and refill the tranny. I can only imagine whats in there.

Now if only I can get rid of that damn stumble/hesitation on the low end... I am hoping it is just my not timing the 009 right. :roll: I want a stock distributor anyway....

Yeah, just put a stock vac advance unit in there, set timing to factory specs, and forget it. That'll clear up your issues.

009s were designed for use in industrial engines, not for street engines.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:32 am

Quote: 009s were designed for use in industrial engines, not for street engines.
Please, not this crapola again. :shock:

Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:24 am

Lots of things can add up to hesitation, but before we go laying it entirely on the distributor let's look at the other suspects first.
*Do the preheat tubes running across the bottom of the manifold get really hot after a few minutes of running?
*What jets are in the carb? (all of them, not just the main)
*Does the accellerator pump give a good long stream when you open the throttle?
*Does that stream shoot directly at the front edge of the throttle plate and down the gap it makes when it first opens?
*Hows the dwell?
*What spark plugs are in there?
*Does it have thermostat flaps and a working thermostat?
*Stock air cleaner? Preheat functional?

Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:21 am

Desertbusman wrote: Quote: 009s were designed for use in industrial engines, not for street engines.
Please, not this crapola again. :shock:
Did something change? Did I not get the memo? How about we try not to divert Jimmy's first thread as a Bay owner with disinformation?

Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:38 pm

jimmynotch wrote: I went to my local FLAPS and got a 14mm tap and insert kit. I used a vacuum and a ton of grease on the tap to minimize shavings into the cylinder and away I went. After it was all back together I took it for a drive. New plugs, cap.rotor, points, valve adjust... It runs pretty good. The oil that came out during the oil change was gnarly. Black sludge. Tomorrow I am hitting up a Lube n Tune joint for them to drain and refill the tranny. I can only imagine whats in there.

Now if only I can get rid of that damn stumble/hesitation on the low end... I am hoping it is just my not timing the 009 right. :roll: I want a stock distributor anyway....

come by my house tomorrow and we can do the tranny drain here. you can get the GL 4 stalube at napa on the corner of watt and elkhorn.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:35 pm

busdaddy wrote: Lots of things can add up to hesitation, but before we go laying it entirely on the distributor let's look at the other suspects first.
*Do the preheat tubes running across the bottom of the manifold get really hot after a few minutes of running?

Not sure about the preheat tubes. What constitutes really hot?

busdaddy wrote: *What jets are in the carb? (all of them, not just the main)

I dont know about what jets... What do I do to find out?

busdaddy wrote: *Does the accellerator pump give a good long stream when you open the throttle?
*Does that stream shoot directly at the front edge of the throttle plate and down the gap it makes when it first opens?

I cant see really good down in there... I will grab a mirror and a flashlight and check.

busdaddy wrote: *Hows the dwell?

I set the points at ~.16-.18

busdaddy wrote: *What spark plugs are in there?

Bosch Super 7502

busdaddy wrote: *Does it have thermostat flaps and a working thermostat?

Again, I dont really know what I am looking for...

busdaddy wrote: *Stock air cleaner? Preheat functional?

Stock Air Cleaner...

So another thing I noticed is that with the new tune up stuff it runs much better. It has less of the hesitation/stumble that it did have but it still demands higher RPMs to avoid them. Also, it idles rather high. I tried to adjust the idle set screw but nothing changes. Its as if the choke is staying on. What is up with that? Is there a quick procedure to adjusting air/fuel mix or something? I am relatiely good at syncing the dual Solexes on the Notch, so carb stuff isnt way outa my league, but the single carb on the DC is kinda foreign to me.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:45 pm

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
carb adjustments made simple

Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:50 pm

jimmynotch wrote: busdaddy wrote: Lots of things can add up to hesitation, but before we go laying it entirely on the distributor let's look at the other suspects first.
*Do the preheat tubes running across the bottom of the manifold get really hot after a few minutes of running?

Not sure about the preheat tubes. What constitutes really hot?

busdaddy wrote: *What jets are in the carb? (all of them, not just the main)

I dont know about what jets... What do I do to find out?

busdaddy wrote: *Does the accellerator pump give a good long stream when you open the throttle?
*Does that stream shoot directly at the front edge of the throttle plate and down the gap it makes when it first opens?

I cant see really good down in there... I will grab a mirror and a flashlight and check.

busdaddy wrote: *Hows the dwell?

I set the points at ~.16-.18

busdaddy wrote: *What spark plugs are in there?

Bosch Super 7502

busdaddy wrote: *Does it have thermostat flaps and a working thermostat?

Again, I dont really know what I am looking for...

busdaddy wrote: *Stock air cleaner? Preheat functional?

Stock Air Cleaner...

So another thing I noticed is that with the new tune up stuff it runs much better. It has less of the hesitation/stumble that it did have but it still demands higher RPMs to avoid them. Also, it idles rather high. I tried to adjust the idle set screw but nothing changes. Its as if the choke is staying on. What is up with that? Is there a quick procedure to adjusting air/fuel mix or something? I am relatiely good at syncing the dual Solexes on the Notch, so carb stuff isnt way outa my league, but the single carb on the DC is kinda foreign to me.

You may have a carb with large and small adjusting screws stacked on top of each other vertically on the driver's side of the carb body. The big one is idle speed (air bypass like the FI Type 3) and the little one is fuel.

On those carbs, once the choke is off, the fast idle stepped cam should have moved the smallest step to what you're thinking is the idle speed screw in the throttle lever. The screw shouldn't contact the last step at all with the throttle plate fully closed and the choke fully open. The only function of that screw is to set fast idle speed; e.g., choke on. Once the choke is off and the "idle speed" screw is no longer contacting the last step, and you're certain that the throttle cable isn't too tight holding the carb partially open, adjust idle speed with the big adjuster screw on the side.

Make sure the return spring snaps the throttle lever all the way back, too.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:19 pm

tom62 wrote: http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
carb adjustments made simple

Yay! I am going to try this. Apparently, this carb is far more technical than I would have anticipated. :lol: Us guys who are used to older type 3's arent used to this high tech stuff (and the EFI totally and utterly baffles me).