TheSamba.com :: View topic - 71 Double Cab - New Owner and the newby-est question ever!

Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:17 pm

water but your engine is air cooled.

See if you can get #1 firing. If you can then maybe the white smoke will go away. Also depends upon how much there is. If it is billowing huge clouds of white smoke you may have a hole or crack in the piston. If it is just noticeable I would try to get it going before pulling it.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:06 pm

jimmynotch wrote: SGKent wrote: Jimmy - you may have a bad pug, bad wire, distributor cap with a carbon track etc. Double check the those items and the valve adjustments on #1. Run a compression test on #1. You can buy a compression tester for about $10 at Harbor Freight.

If you were telling me that there was a loud knock or exhaust I might think #1 had a mechanical problem but you haven't said that so we are thinking it is an ignition spark issue on the cylinder or a mis-adjusted valve.

The cap is brand new with new rotor. I will check out the wire too.

I am waiting now for the damn thing to cool down so I can address the valve and plug issue. As for a compression tester, I have that on the list of stuff to get at HF this evening.

What else would cause white-ish smoke?

Vacuum leak at the intake base on that cylinder.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:06 pm

You might try temporaly plugging the connection under the carb on the intake manifold where the brake booster vacuum line is attached. Brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder can get drawn into the engine. Brake fluid in the engine produces white smoke. Plus it can foul a cylinder.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:09 pm

SGKent wrote: See if you can get #1 firing. If you can then maybe the white smoke will go away. Also depends upon how much there is. If it is billowing huge clouds of white smoke you may have a hole or crack in the piston. If it is just noticeable I would try to get it going before pulling it.

It is not huge billowing clouds, but it is noticeable- especially when I goose the throttle from a dead idle. Just white-ish smokey exhaust....

Desertbusman wrote: You might try temporaly plugging the connection under the carb on the intake manifold where the brake booster vacuum line is attached. Brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder can get drawn into the engine. Brake fluid in the engine produces white smoke.

Would the vacuum line pull brake fluid all the way back to the motor from the front where the master cyl is?

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:11 pm

It could, remove the line at the manifold and cap the manifold port for now just to rule it out.

Checked the valve adjustment yet?

Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:18 pm

jimmynotch wrote:
Would the vacuum line pull brake fluid all the way back to the motor from the front where the master cyl is?
Sure can. The master cylinder leak ends up in the brake booster. Vacuum draws it into the engine.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:32 pm

Pulled the plugs and cleaned them. They looked 'oily' even though they are new. Re-checked the valves- they were good. Started 'er up and -again- broke out the timing light. At 3000 RPMs it is set at 28-30 degrees with and idle of ~7.5-8 degrees. Rechecked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid. It seems to run better... All plugs are firing, though removing 1 & 2 make minimal difference as compared to 3 & 4. I drove it. Its better, but still stumbles/hesitates. :? But it will have to suffice for now. I cant spend alot of time on it till the weekend. :?

Oh and the white smoke doesnt seem to be as bad now. WTF?

Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:25 pm

I am sooooo terribly embarrassed to be asking this, but.....

Would someone kindly and gently explain the damn heater controls in my DC?! Sheesh! I am getting roasted like a Thanksgiving turkey in there. :oops:

Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:27 pm

push the 2 red knobs up and it should stop the heat. if they are already up then push them down :?

Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:35 pm

Up, down, makes no difference. And what is the big knob under the drivers seat and what is the push pull lever next to it?

Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:43 pm

Perhaps the heater boxes have been wired open. Which means you will have to climb under the truck to turn off the heat or live with it for now.

The big knob is the seat back adjustment, the small pull lever controls the heat to the rear passenger compartment. in should be off out is on.

Jon

Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:43 pm

Don't be embarassed. A lot of folks take quite a while to find out what the various controls do. Go to the Samba Technical section and find the owners manual for a '71. Bus should be the same as a DC.
If the 2 red levers full upward don't shut off th heat you probably need to climb underneath and see what up with the levers on the front of the heat exchangers.

Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:44 pm

jimmynotch wrote: I am sooooo terribly embarrassed to be asking this, but.....

Would someone kindly and gently explain the damn heater controls in my DC?! Sheesh! I am getting roasted like a Thanksgiving turkey in there. :oops:

Welcome to Baywindow Hell, my lil' blue tattooed friend. :twisted:

Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:16 am

jimmynotch wrote: I am sooooo terribly embarrassed to be asking this, but.....

Would someone kindly and gently explain the damn heater controls in my DC?! Sheesh! I am getting roasted like a Thanksgiving turkey in there. :oops:

I wouldn't be embarassed at all. Some of us would love to have a heater in our bays that would roast us. ;)

Nice DC.

Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:14 am

Ya know.... you guys in this forum are allllllright. I dont care what the other forums say about you.... you're alright in my book. :)

If the heater is stuck 'on', at least its the right time of year for it, huh?

Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:39 am

jimmynotch wrote: If the heater is stuck 'on', at least its the right time of year for it, huh?
Yeah that would really suck if it was in mid-summer..if moving the heater controls in the cabin of the DC does nothing; then either your heater cables are not connected to the controls, or your heater cables are seized up in their guides.

Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:41 am

Right. Just climb under it and see if they are wired open. Pretty simple fix if you dont like the heat. Then you can not burn up while you order and repair your heater boxes to operating shape. :)

Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:58 am

Aw....I wanna be roasted alive :(