TheSamba.com :: View topic - Do I have to remove Flywheel, when disassembling the engine?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:29 am

I am rebuilding my engine, for the first time. I am new VW's and am not a mechanic. But I like to think that I am mechanically inclined.

I cannot get the flywheel off of the longblock. I have used a breaker bar, and have probably applied over 300 ft-lbs of torque and the gland nut does not move.

Should I continue on taking off the heads, cylinders, etc, and split the case, and just take the crankshaft in, to get it machined along with the flywheel still attached?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:43 am

Impact wrench is your friend.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:59 am

x2

Only way, sometimes. Do you have a flywheel holder?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:28 am

Update:-

I bought a longer pipe to put over the breaker bar. And I broke the 1/2 inch drive of the breaker bar. haha

And yes I do have a fly wheel lock to keep the fly wheel from turning.

If all else fails, I might have to invest in an impact wrench.
Since I have applied 300ft-lbs of torque, do you think the impact wrench I buy have to have more than 300 ft-lbs of torque. OR will a 300 ft-lbs max torque impact wrench be enough to remove the gland nut?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:34 pm

You have to get a good one. I used a larger high torque racing gland nut on my 2375 cc engine and it takes about 435 foot pounds.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:40 pm

Gill wrote: Update:-

I bought a longer pipe to put over the breaker bar. And I broke the 1/2 inch drive of the breaker bar. haha

And yes I do have a fly wheel lock to keep the fly wheel from turning.

If all else fails, I might have to invest in an impact wrench.
Since I have applied 300ft-lbs of torque, do you think the impact wrench I buy have to have more than 300 ft-lbs of torque. OR will a 300 ft-lbs max torque impact wrench be enough to remove the gland nut?

Throw the shortblock in your truck and find an auto or heavy truck shop. They will have the impact to knock it off in seconds. Impacts actually hit the nut rapidly many times a second. This is what breaks them loose and takes less force then trying to break it free manually. Good luck

Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:46 pm

Yes you can take it apart with the flywheel on but it's easier on everyone to get it off while the engine is assembled.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:46 pm

Gill wrote: Update:-

I bought a longer pipe to put over the breaker bar. And I broke the 1/2 inch drive of the breaker bar. haha

And yes I do have a fly wheel lock to keep the fly wheel from turning.

If all else fails, I might have to invest in an impact wrench.
Since I have applied 300ft-lbs of torque, do you think the impact wrench I buy have to have more than 300 ft-lbs of torque. OR will a 300 ft-lbs max torque impact wrench be enough to remove the gland nut?

that's why I have a 3/4" :wink:

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:30 pm

For anyone that's been on the fence over spending the cash on a torque multiplier tool, I say go for it. Jbugs had one sitting there and I couldn't resist any longer. I took the gland nut off with 1 hand while balancing my motor on a floor jack. I held the flywheel with a screwdriver between two pressure plate screws. Only 30ft/lbs to do it.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:48 pm

Lotrat wrote: For anyone that's been on the fence over spending the cash on a torque multiplier tool, I say go for it. Jbugs had one sitting there and I couldn't resist any longer. I took the gland nut off with 1 hand while balancing my motor on a floor jack. I held the flywheel with a screwdriver between two pressure plate screws. Only 30ft/lbs to do it.

Agree 1000%.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:06 pm

Only time I take the flywheel off is to change the bearing or seal.

When I do take it off I use a socket with a 3 foot 1.5" tube welded to it. It's like a big wrench. Pipe is cheaper and stronger than breaker bars.
Impact wrenches are for sissies!

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:20 pm

If you want a inexpensive tool set to build your collection try your new local Harbor Freight store at 3745 Rosedale Highway.
Right now they have a 3/4" metric socket set on sale with:
12-point cold-forged, chrome-plated sockets
17" single piece heat-treated steel ratchet
18" sliding T-bar
4" and 8" extensions
Includes steel storage case. Sizes: 19, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 41, 42, 45, 46, 48 and 50mm
ITEM 5494-2VGA

It is listed as 60 bucks on the website but the sale flyer has it for 44.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5494

You will still need a flywheel lock, or some angle iron to bolt onto the flywheel for leverage.

Yes, I would love an beefy impact wrench or mongo compressor setup. Even the torque multiplier idea sounds great.

Just another option. Good luck!

To other readers:
I am looking for a super beetle in the northeast for my next daily driver!!!!! Yes I am watching the classifieds.....

Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:36 am

69 Jim wrote: Lotrat wrote: For anyone that's been on the fence over spending the cash on a torque multiplier tool, I say go for it. Jbugs had one sitting there and I couldn't resist any longer. I took the gland nut off with 1 hand while balancing my motor on a floor jack. I held the flywheel with a screwdriver between two pressure plate screws. Only 30ft/lbs to do it.

Agree 1000%.

Double that but most are not willing to buy tools that make life that easy like you are Jim. :wink:

Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:19 am

Franklinstein wrote: If you want a inexpensive tool set to build your collection try your new local Harbor Freight store at 3745 Rosedale Highway.
Right now they have a 3/4" metric socket set on sale with:
12-point cold-forged, chrome-plated sockets
17" single piece heat-treated steel ratchet
18" sliding T-bar
4" and 8" extensions
Includes steel storage case. Sizes: 19, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 41, 42, 45, 46, 48 and 50mm
ITEM 5494-2VGA

It is listed as 60 bucks on the website but the sale flyer has it for 44.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5494

You will still need a flywheel lock, or some angle iron to bolt onto the flywheel for leverage.

Yes, I would love an beefy impact wrench or mongo compressor setup. Even the torque multiplier idea sounds great.

Just another option. Good luck!

To other readers:
I am looking for a super beetle in the northeast for my next daily driver!!!!! Yes I am watching the classifieds..... Why shell out good money for junk tools? The torque multiplier makes popping the gland nut off a breeze.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:34 am

Although the torque multiplier tool looks like the easiest way to pull or install a 36mm gland nut or axle nut, it is limited to just a few applications.

The peace of mind in knowing those nuts are properly installed justifies the 80 buck price tag for a multiplier. Of course one needs an accurate torque wrench to use it. We all have a few of those right?

It wont help me with any other size nuts, like the ones on my 79' bus rear axles, or my other family cars that need maintaining.

The kit I mentioned has a 3/4" ratchet, T-bar, extensions and many sockets all in one package. It is inexpensive, but that does not mean cheaply made. At least it is not made by EMPI.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:46 am

Franklinstein wrote: Although the torque multiplier tool looks like the easiest way to pull or install a 36mm gland nut or axle nut, it is limited to just a few applications.

It's called using the right tool for the job. Are you the same guy who uses a crescent wrench to remove nuts and bolts? Nothing like rounding off the corners.

Quote: The peace of mind in knowing those nuts are properly installed justifies the 80 buck price tag for a multiplier. Of course one needs an accurate torque wrench to use it. We all have a few of those right?

If someone is working on his car and doesn't not re-install nuts and bolts to the correct torque setting because he won't buy a torque wrench, then that's his fault if/when something bad happens. See the above - buy the correct tool for the job. I don't know about you, but I sure as hell want that glad nut torqued to the proper value. The same holds true for the axle nut.

Quote: It wont help me with any other size nuts, like the ones on my 79' bus rear axles, or my other family cars that need maintaining.

Again, see my above point. Not every tool is universal and when working on older cars, it comes with the territory. You strike me as the dreaded Previous Owner.

Quote: The kit I mentioned has a 3/4" ratchet, T-bar, extensions and many sockets all in one package. It is inexpensive, but that does not mean cheaply made. At least it is not made by EMPI. It's Harbor Freight. 99% of the alleged tools there are garbage made in China. I want my tools to last for the duration of the job and for years down the road. What the hell good is a socket, ratchet, or other tool that breaks? Trips back to town to buy a replacement cost money. I've been burned and learned by the Harbor Freight garbage. I pay once and never think twice. Maybe you'll learn someday.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:46 am

Franklinstein wrote: Although the torque multiplier tool looks like the easiest way to pull or install a 36mm gland nut or axle nut, it is limited to just a few applications.

The peace of mind in knowing those nuts are properly installed justifies the 80 buck price tag for a multiplier. Of course one needs an accurate torque wrench to use it. We all have a few of those right?

It wont help me with any other size nuts, like the ones on my 79' bus rear axles, or my other family cars that need maintaining.

The kit I mentioned has a 3/4" ratchet, T-bar, extensions and many sockets all in one package. It is inexpensive, but that does not mean cheaply made. At least it is not made by EMPI.

Looks like that kit will work great until you use it. :lol: 250 lbs. of torque and up? I wouldn't trust a low budget 12 point socket on that.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:54 am

Just a follow-up: I know someone from this forum who bought Harbor Freight's version of the Torque-Multiplier. It disintegrated partway into the job. Surprised? I'm not.

Secondly, I found an old torque-wrench like this one at a tool swap meet. $10 and balls-on accurate. New <> better.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:56 am

Learn a lesson from a guy redrilling all his egg shaped flywheel dowell holes right now because he didn't get the torque he needed on his gland nut. Next time, he will use the right tool for the job. I know this thread is about getting the nut off the flywheel, but it also has to go back on.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:57 am

I would just take it to a tire shop and have them remove the gland nut. It could be Super Glued on there for all we know.

$10 well spent.