| andrewsanteiro |
Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:41 pm |
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I've got a switch in the position for the fresh air fan nob (optional equipment on VW Sedan 111). Does any one have a picture of this fan? Where it was mounted? How it was tubed? blah blah blah
I wanted to install some sort of cooling device because it is hotter than shit 99% of the year here and this caught my attention.
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| desertmedic |
Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:53 pm |
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| It is mounted inside the fresh air box. It blows in throught the two vents on the dash. I have one in my 72 vert that does work but if its hot outside then it blows in hot air. Not very good for cooling really. If you have the switch already pull your fresh air box and see if there are wires going into it. If so you most likely have or had a fan mounted. Then you just have to get it working. Good luck. |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:17 pm |
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OK, just pulled the fresh air box, but unfortunately no fan to be found. A lot of dead critters though.
As a side question now that I am inspecting the fresh air box...
The hose that runs from the fresh air box to drain out; mine is about 1 foot long, maybe 1 1/2. This is probably normal, but my question is should, the hose be long enough to clear the lower pan so that water doesn't just drain through the hood and settle onto it? |
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| desertmedic |
Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:55 pm |
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| No wires going to it? Just the two cables that open and close the drivers and passengers side air flow I guess. As far as how long your drain should be I don't know. On my 72 a slot (four or so inches) comes off the bottom, center of the fresh air box and slips into a gromet in the trunk floor. If I get a chance I will pull mine out tomorrow and take some pics for you. |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:03 pm |
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there are two cables coming off the switch (not original two speed nob). probably replaced for something else along the way (its a Baja, go figure).
I think that the hose I have is original, I just feel that the hose should pass the lower pan and drain straight to the ground. Just a guess after seeing the rust down there on a lot of beetles I've seen. I am going to make it long enough to drain to the ground regardless, but was just curious on others input. |
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| webwalker |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:22 am |
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You haven't mentioned what Beetle you have.
The 71/72 Super Beetle got the air box with the fan in it. The standard did not.
You can retrofit one if you wish. But I will tell you, having rebuilt an air box, they don't put out enough CFM to cool you down on a hot day in stopped traffic. Esp in Miami! |
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| saulverde |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:04 pm |
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My 72 super didn't have the fresh air box when I bought it. It took me about 6 months to find a decent one with a motor that was worth what they were asking for it. Right now it is just a rain catcher to keep water out of the trunk.
I would be interested to see the pictures also. Rebuilding my vent system is proving to be a puzzle. I am not sure how the defrost vents get air. If you wouldn't mind taking pictures before you pull it out I would certainly be happy. |
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| webwalker |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:02 pm |
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See pics, starting here:
http://webwrench.smugmug.com/Cars/1972-VW-Beetle-Restoration/408021_4KUxy#54922098_kWAzL |
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| andrewsanteiro |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:26 pm |
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ive got a standard 72, but from what I understood from the manual was that the fan was optional equipment, so if someone wanted it at the time of purchase they could of had it installed. Not really a problem though anyway sounds like they are a waste of time for the most part.
Anyone have any other clever or not so much suggestions of keeping the interior of the car cool. Fan placement etc? |
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| webwalker |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:33 pm |
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It depends on where you are and how much money you have to spend.
A swamp cooler works quite well where it is dry, and lousy where it is humid.
A/C can be had, but it is hell on a stock engine and is quite costly to do well.
My best solution has always been a small fan, like many truckers have. Most have a screw on swivel mount at the bottom. Instead of screwing them in to your German steel, epoxy a Neodymium magnet to the bottom. Now stick it anywhere there is metal. Viola. Moving air.
That is the best your going to do on beer and pizza money.
M |
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| saulverde |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:28 pm |
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| Thanks for the pics. Looks like I am also missing the arms that come off the fresh air box and go into the vents which gives me another piece of the puzzle to look for. |
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| TheRustySuper |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 3:09 pm |
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| For those who actually have a system...how strong is the stock fan? Mine barely moves air. And it makes this awful SQUACKING noise every time you turn it on, it's louder than the engine. When you oil the shaft where the fan meets the motor it stops for about a month, and then starts squacking again. I'm tired of taking apart my fan box! |
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| robclark63 |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 3:58 pm |
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| When they are in good condition they will move air, but as said in a previous post don't expect to be icy cool 8) I have rebuilt a couple of them...there is a very good post that I can't find as of yet. It takes you through the process with a great video. Does anyone have that post??? Probably would help a lot of the motor owners. |
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| TheRustySuper |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:57 pm |
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robclark63 wrote: When they are in good condition they will move air, but as said in a previous post don't expect to be icy cool 8) I have rebuilt a couple of them...there is a very good post that I can't find as of yet. It takes you through the process with a great video. Does anyone have that post??? Probably would help a lot of the motor owners.
I want to see that post, it would be really nice to have a blower for my heat this winter... |
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| webwalker |
Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:39 pm |
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Ummm. No. The fan in the fanbox doesn't help with your heater.
All it does is move air that is outside to the inside. That's all. Any air pressure from the heat exchangers comes from your engine fan. So if you are leaking anywhere from the back, all the way up to the front, you're losing air pressure.
I will say that if you are fortunate enough to have popout quarter windows, keeping one cracked open slightly does help create enough vacuum in the cab that it can help pulling warm air from the back more effectively.
But the main path from the fan at the back, all the way to your windshield is up to YOU to seal.
M |
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| saulverde |
Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:43 am |
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| all of the pop-out window kits I have seen have year ranges that end at around 67. I wanted pop out windows but wasn't sure the late models had the proper body holes for them. Do the kits work on the newer bugs? |
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| rampeyboy |
Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:59 am |
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| as for the pop out windows, my 71 standard had fixed windows. I picked up an original set of pop outs from the junkyard (unknown year) and had no problems putting them into my 71. I think I may have had to drill a hole or two on the latch end of the window, but that may have been just because I didn't have it lined up properly? Anyway, the hinged end had no issues at all. |
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| saulverde |
Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:07 am |
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Thanks. That will be a project for the spring prolly.
I know some of the fresh air components from 71 and 72 supers are unique to them. Or at least i think they are. Does anyone know if the pieces that go from the fresh air box to the dash/defrost vents are unique or what time span of parts I'm looking for? |
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| webwalker |
Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:17 am |
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You really need a diagram.
Oh look:
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| webwalker |
Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:23 am |
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| Most of the non-fanbox parts are common between 68-77 For 111 and 1302 Beetles. |
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