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Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:28 pm

Do most people just buy the kits? I have no plasma or torch. I didn't know if there was a template out there to trace the metal or if the kits are cheap enough?

Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:35 pm

xirxious wrote: Do most people just buy the kits? I have no plasma or torch. I didn't know if there was a template out there to trace the metal or if the kits are cheap enough?

the kit's aren't that pricey. i'd say you're better off buying it

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1287/AC530000/

Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:38 pm

or you could use tubing... I did the angle cut on some similar ones with a hack saw.

Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:51 am

before you weld make sure there is room for the CV's you are going to use.
Something I learned the hard way,
Dave

Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:41 pm

hmm..wonder if I mis-read the ad I last saw and they were finished arms? I was just going to grind up scraps.

HamburgerBrad wrote: xirxious wrote: Do most people just buy the kits? I have no plasma or torch. I didn't know if there was a template out there to trace the metal or if the kits are cheap enough?

the kit's aren't that pricey. i'd say you're better off buying it

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1287/AC530000/

Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:53 pm

The kits are about 40 bucks, then theres shipping, totaling up to 60/65 ??
the down side is the metal used is very thin.

Just use cardboard and make your own pattern.
the kits .. the inside piece, usally only goes up to the Cv area, with a arch cut, if you make your own, you can go about the Cv carrier

tubed arm like those are ok, often are in the way of big Cv's, sometimes disc brake mounts..

Sun Nov 15, 2009 8:41 pm

towd wrote: the down side is the metal used is very thin.
the metal is plenty thick, besides, any thicker and the arms would start to get too heavy; when it's all boxed together, it is still plenty strong.

Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:10 am

Make sure your arms a straight before welding. Also when welding do not weld all on one side. Make sure to move around while welding. from side to side to avoid pulling out of line.

Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:22 am

One of my arms just busted and i'm thinkin to box in my next set.

Do the kits require me to weld on new shock mounts?

And do they sell a prefabbed shock mount or do i just make one up?

Any pictures of a set with stock configuration shock mounts?

Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:53 am

Here's some pictures of my boxed arms for my Thing. Stock mounts would require the shock pass through the gussets. It might be do-able with alot of fab work, but not with a simple boxing. I tried to keep the shock geometry as close as possible to stock. I placed the shock mounts on top of the trailing arm gusset, and angled the bolt to be parallel with a line drawn between the inner trailing arm pivot and spring plate pivot. This raises the top shock mounting point above the parcel shelf, so an upper mount needs to be fabricated there. Again, this is for a Thing, so I'm not sure exactly how the upper shock mount would need to be placed for a beetle.

Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:53 am

Thanks for the pictures

I'm not ready to start entering the interior for shock mounts so i gotta think this out. I may just get some good stock trailing arms and do some limited bracing on them and not full boxed. My last ones had some bracing and lasted awhile.

Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:14 am

Dirtkeeper
adding interior mounts are not hard at all. To keep from breaking your stock arms this is the best way to go. Easiest way to go. from here there are almost limitless possibilities to get other things done you will want for your ride in the future.

The best book made for this is