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Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:40 am

Trying to remove the MC on a '74 super. One of the bolts is badly rusted and I'm afraid I'll round it off trying to remove it. Already sprayed it w/ PB Blaster. Couple questions...

- can I hit it with a torch? will that free it up?
- if I end up rounding off the bolt head and have to cut it off w/ a Dremel, what's the spec on that bolt? I might need to replace it.

Item 16 in the diagram.

Sun Nov 15, 2009 7:10 am

Yes you can hit it with a torch. Yes it will probably free it up. Dissimilar metals corrode when in contact but they also expand and contract at different rates when heated and cooled. Keep a fire extinguisher handy though. If it is not a daily or you aren't in a time crunch to get this done you can keep hitting it with PB several times a day for a few day and it should come. If you do end up stripping it out be sure when you remove the bolt that you reach in through the hole and grab that spacer. #15 Otherwise it will fall into the pan never to be seen again. As far as the specs on the bolt maybe someone will post up with that info if not take the good one with you to match it up.

Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:55 am

I've been spraying the PB a few days now, guess I'll use the torch next. I do know about the spacers and will be careful to get them when I remove the bolts. Thanks.

Anyone know what those bolts are?

Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:11 am

I'd have to check the length but they are 8mm X 1.25 thread pitch and are a "shouldered" bolt, not full threads. They only have threads on about the first inch of the bolt.

I probably can find a couple good used in my stash of hardware so if you need one or both PM me when you get to that point.

Try tapping on the master side some blows with a small ball peen and also make sure you use a 6 point socket on head. A blow on the center of the head with a center punch and a bigger ball peen before your next attempt might also help it break free ( before you try the torch)

Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:49 am

keifernet wrote: make sure you use a 6 point socket on head.

Yep.

Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:01 am

Heating the M/C is not a good idea and heating the bolt is backwards. PB Blaster and a six point and turn until it comes off or breaks.

Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:13 am

M8x60mm

Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:12 pm

I got it free!!! :D Lesson learned: inspect your master cylinder for leaks or this is the result.
Cusser wrote: keifernet wrote: make sure you use a 6 point socket on head.

Yep.
Dang, sure enough I only have 12 pointers. :evil: Better add the 6s to my shopping list!
keifernet wrote: Try tapping on the master side some blows with a small ball peen and also make sure you use a 6 point socket on head. A blow on the center of the head with a center punch and a bigger ball peen before your next attempt might also help it break free
I took your advice with the ball peen hammer, I think it loosened things up a bit. But in the end I was out at Sears and picked up this set of damaged bolt removers. Amazingly they were on sale for half price, got the entire set for $9.99. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?keyword=damaged+nut+remover
Used the #7 along with about a 12" socket extension and my longest torque wrench. (The torque wrench has a handle about 24" long). The bolt came out with a bit more fight but it came out! The bolt remover was a god-send. I carefully removed the upper right bolt while holding the spacer with my magnet, no problem. The spacer on the lower left bolt, the one that was so rusted, was basically rusted in place and I couldn't budge it. So I decided to try and pull the MC while my daughter held the bolt in place. No dice, the MC was rusted to the frame. At this point with little to lose I took my 27mm socket and 1/2" extension, about 8" long, held it onto the end of the MC from inside the car, and with a BFH drove it out. Now THAT was tough. This ended up loosening the spacer to where I was able to remove it.

After removing the pedal cluster this is what I found. It looks worse than it really is, most of that is surface rust. I'll be getting up close and personal with a wire wheel and whatnot. Any suggestions on how to clean up the brake fluid and prep for rust converter?

The lower left bolt was the main offender.

Look how rusty the MC is.

The front left drum looks fairly clean but I had a heck of a time getting the steel brake lines off and removing the wheel cylinder. I used an 11mm flare nut wrench, absolutely priceless for this task. After removing the wheel cylinder bolt it stayed rusted in place, I had to pound it on either end to get it rotating, then I was able to pull it out. The stars at the bottom...forget it...had to heat the center with a torch, then pound on it. The stars jumped their way out with the pounding. No wonder I could never adjust them. The amazing thing is how nice and uniform the shoes had worn. Haven't pulled the right drum yet.

The old, worn-out parts. I'm going to replace everything here, plus the brake shoes and hardware all around.

Oh, and I also need to replace the clutch pedal hook and clean up the pedal assembly, this is what it looked like. This whole thing started because I was installing new carpeting up front...one thing led to another and here we are... Thanks all for the advice!

Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:49 pm

It's amazing what the right tool for the job will allow. Now if only we could beat this into the heads of the 99% of users here that think the only tool anyone needs is a pair of vice grips. :wink:

Gratz !

Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:14 am

I had to replace my MC 2 weeks ago because of leaking (into the firewall area) too. Shot some brake cleaner into the MC hole, then followed it up with a good dose of Liquid Film. Hope that inhibits any corrosion that would have been caused by the brake fluid. Be sure to bleed that MC before you install it... since you'll probably replace the green lines up to the reservoir, just take it off & hook it up the the MC & bench bleed it.

Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:07 pm

What's Liquid Film and where did you get it? I imagine brake cleaner is less corrosive than brake fluid...I should go read the can...

Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:53 pm

Sorry..... it's Fluid Film... :idea:

Here's the link: http://www.kellsportproducts.com/aboutfluidfilm.html

Company sells it on Ebay too.

Brake cleaner isn't corrosive at all. Use it to flush out the brake fluid as best you can.

jlex.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:57 pm

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:15 am

Viande wrote: It's amazing what the right tool for the job will allow. Now if only we could beat this into the heads of the 99% of users here that think the only tool anyone needs is a pair of vice grips. :wink:

Gratz !

I only use vice grips to clamp onto hood struts of vehicles where the hood won't stay open on it's own because the hood struts are blown out. Other than that, they never get used. I learned that the hard way when I was young on all of my bicycles. They really don't even make a good last resort, there is usually always a better "last resort" tool.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:48 am

I am in the process of replacing my master cyllinder and noticed that hook on the clutch pedal. What the heck is that for anyway? I figure its better to ask a dumb question and learn from it. :)

Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:57 am

mdpry wrote: I am in the process of replacing my master cyllinder and noticed that hook on the clutch pedal. What the heck is that for anyway? I figure its better to ask a dumb question and learn from it. :)

The hook in the image provided is for your clutch cable.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:18 am

Viande wrote: mdpry wrote: I am in the process of replacing my master cyllinder and noticed that hook on the clutch pedal. What the heck is that for anyway? I figure its better to ask a dumb question and learn from it. :)

The hook in the image provided is for your clutch cable.

Mine has a hook on the clutch pedal about midway up on the arm with nothing connected. Looks like if you pressed the clutch and hooked it, it would hold in the clutch. Has to be a different hook. The clutch on mine works fine, but, that hook is seized pointing straight out and hits the front wall when the clutch is fully engaged. Any ideas?

Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:36 pm

You talking about the pedal itself?? There should be a "stop" on it so the pedal will only travel so far. The stop will hit the firewall, it's supposed to be there. Here's a shot of the cluster I rebuilt for my sedan, you can see the stop on the pedal.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:41 pm

mnussbau wrote: You talking about the pedal itself?? There should be a "stop" on it so the pedal will only travel so far. The stop will hit the firewall, it's supposed to be there. Here's a shot of the cluster I rebuilt for my sedan, you can see the stop on the pedal.

YES.. probably a dumb question, but now I know. That is definitely it. It looked like a hook when I was turned upside down in the seat with my head stuck under the dash. :) Thanks!