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Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:55 am

Snapped a stud changing out the exhaust on my 69 Bug. I've read most of the posts on the different ways to remove then but have a question on drilling them out.

How far do you have to drill to get to the end of the stud in the case? And, what happens if you drill to far? (I would assume bad things.)

Thanks

Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:09 am

It will be readily apparent when you get through the stud. Most have a small gap between the end of the stud and the head on any I have have had to drill. Get a cobalt bit! Do not waste your time with anything else. Cobalt will go through a stud like a hot knife through butter. Run the bit at slow speed and keep it oiled and this task will be a breeze.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:52 am

In the future remember in order to not break a stud in the first place...get a whack at it with a chisel at the correct angle and it will bust the nut loose from the threads of the stud and allow penetrating oil to get in where it needs and takes the pressure off the nut to the stud as well.

Any bit of a decent hammer blow you can get on the edge or side of the nut with a sharp chisel will keep you from breaking off the stud.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:47 pm

I have had great success using left-handed drill bits. Once you get down far enough, the bit will grab and unscrew what's left of the stud.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:54 pm

grind it flush and center punch it. i don't know how hard the studs are but you may want to start with a tiny bit and step up 1 size every pass...i have a snapped stud on one of my heads, and thats what i'll do. Viande wrote: It will be readily apparent when you get through the stud. Most have a small gap between the end of the stud and the head on any I have have had to drill. Get a cobalt bit! Do not waste your time with anything else. Cobalt will go through a stud like a hot knife through butter. Run the bit at slow speed and keep it oiled and this task will be a breeze. slow and steady

Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:52 pm

You guys - buy more carbs from Keifer so he can get new gloves !

Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:07 pm

Cusser wrote: You guys - buy more carbs from Keifer so he can get new gloves !

LOL yeah please, I go through a box of these disposable ones every week or so! :lol: :wink:

Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:30 pm

Funny we just drilled 2 studs out on my 75.

Remember to use copper nuts when you put it back together makes life easer for any one that has to work on it the PO of mine didn't get that.
Drill and use a tap to clean it out and it's just like new.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:15 am

My main concern is drilling to deep and going through the stud and into the head. Is it readily apparent when you need to stop? Is there a max depth tapped in the head?

Thanks.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:06 am

dev45 wrote: Remember to use copper nuts when you put it back together makes life easer for any one that has to work on it.

I use BRASS nuts, same thread but use an 11mm wrench size, available from Classifieds or advertisers. And I've ground down wrenches narrower and thinner to help here.

For you science people, brass is copper plus zinc, and bronze is copper plus tin...

Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:19 pm

You'll know when you are thru the stud. The metals are different. Plus like was stated there is a gap between the stud end and the head material. Just go slow and check it often. If you rush is you willl ruin it.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:05 pm

Cusser wrote: dev45 wrote: Remember to use copper nuts when you put it back together makes life easer for any one that has to work on it.

I use BRASS nuts, same thread but use an 11mm wrench size, available from Classifieds or advertisers. And I've ground down wrenches narrower and thinner to help here.

For you science people, brass is copper plus zinc, and bronze is copper plus tin...

Cool the PO of mine used steel rusted on harder the rocks