TheSamba.com :: View topic - Reassembled the motor

Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:50 pm

Tune tune tune. No one likes anything out of tune. Ever hear a famous musician out of tune?

Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:10 am

Stray Catalyst wrote: I had a stuck valve in my daily driver (1974 standard beetle, stock engine except 009 distributor). I pulled the engine, removed that head, replaced it with a used head I had from a trade. Reinstalled the engine, did a valve adjustment, started it up - it runs, but it's SO weak - it'll only get up to about 35MPH on level ground, though it'll go 60 downhill without difficulty. I didn't change anything about the dizzy. I replaced the intake boots and gaskets for the carburetor, which may have removed my vacuum leak - the car idles now, which it didn't before. Both exhaust tips are warm after the car has run for a short while. I'm going to compression test all the cylinders tonight. I drove it to work today, but it was a painful process. Any ideas of where I should start checking?

Stray

there is an extremly good chance that once the intake boots were changed the air/fuel mixture is now off. i replaced the intake boots on my gpz one night because they were fucked... didnt run worth a damn afterwards. had to have a small engine garage readjust the carbs.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:16 am

I'm getting it towed home today, I'll have time to work on it over the weekend. I'll check all the suggestions I've received here - thank you.

Stray

Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:09 am

Stray Catalyst wrote: I'm getting it towed home today, I'll have time to work on it over the weekend. I'll check all the suggestions I've received here - thank you.

Stray

climb under real quick before the truck comes because sometimes with the starter issue there is a spade connector on the solenoid itself that can have faulty connections or pops off which will usually causes the starter to completely fail. make sure your terminals on the solenoid are clean and connected.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:31 am

The car's got enough problems that I'd rather get it towed - and it's parked in the dirt, while I'm wearing clothing that's too nice for rubbing myself all over the belly pan of a VW. I'll check those connections over the weekend at home.

Stray

Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:36 am

I've found the problem that kept the starter from responding to the key - the wire had slipped off of the starter. I pinched it a bit tighter with pliers and plugged it back in - the starter works again! Now, to track down the lack-of-power problem...

Compression testing shows me that #3 is at about 105 lbs, while #1 is up at 140. Is that kind of disparity in compressions likely to cause the lack of power I'm experiencing?

Stray

Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:20 am

Did the stuck valve bend a pushrod?
Easy to check, might be worth a look.
Good luck, Mondshine

Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:14 am

Stray Catalyst wrote: I've found the problem that kept the starter from responding to the key - the wire had slipped off of the starter. I pinched it a bit tighter with pliers and plugged it back in - the starter works again! Now, to track down the lack-of-power problem...

Compression testing shows me that #3 is at about 105 lbs, while #1 is up at 140. Is that kind of disparity in compressions likely to cause the lack of power I'm experiencing?

Stray

glad to help with the starter. the compression could be whats doing it, but i personally dont think its likely. check the valves on that cylinder to make sure they are closing and opening all the way.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 1:47 pm

None of the pushrods on that side are bent. I've checked the gap on the points, now at .016"... and now it won't start at all. I'll check to see that all of the valves are opening, but that'll be a job to do tomorrow.

Stray

Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:54 pm

mattg6o wrote: fastinradford wrote: Yeah, same thing happened to me twice first engine I built,

until I realized that torque wrenches aren't always right, or even close/

how do you figure?

If you ever even so as sneeze at a torque wrench wrong it will go out of alignment. do not drop throw or lay in regular tool box. most high quality torque wrenches come with a padded case. any snap on or mac guy can calibrate for a fee

Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:42 pm

I know, I'm in charge of calibration of tools for a small company. I store the torque wrench in its plastic case, which I store separate from my other tools, where it won't be dropped or damaged. I treat it with the same care I show for my micrometers and calipers.

Stray

Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:08 pm

Thats Interesting! I had the same issue with my 71 vert 15 years ago and i as well replaced the head with another that I picked up at the swap meet. I couldn't go over 50 Mph and it was really frustrating untill I took the whole top end down again and realized that infact the #3 and #4 head I replaced with a rebuilt unit still had Deck spacers left in them from the previous owner. Oh they where rebuilt the left head and had a 3 angle valve job and all. Just that the Machinist forgot to pull out the two deck hieght spacers which I figured gave me something like .098 deck hieght. When U shouldn't have ( or ideally should be) .050 too .080 I had such low compression it was killing me. So once I removed these two spacers it brought me back to the stock 1600 head and my deck hieght was at .058 on both sides of the cylinders. Once I figured out what was wrong I put it all back together fired it up and it was like a new motor. Good Luck Cheers Eric 8)