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Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:20 pm

Hi,

is there ANY possibility that my crankshaft wouldn't have the drive for the fuel pump?
I have a rebuilt engine from Remtec and tried to start it today.
When I got the engine there was a blocking plate instead of the pump.

If I take the OUT hose from the pump and cranck the engine no fuel comes out. But fuel definetly comes to the pump from tank.
Also when I was putting it all together I took the pump apart and the membrane looked ok.

I know you will sugest an electric one, but I just don't like them.

Thanks for any help.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:25 pm

What kind of engine? did you install a pushrod with the pump? Tried swapping ports on the pump?

Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:38 pm

Right, it's a type 4 engine.
The pushrod is installed and long enough (per Haynes), the ports are hooked up correctly...

Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:41 pm

does the rod move up & down when you crank the engine?

also, you have to pretension the diaphragm when you reassemble.

Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:02 pm

When my engine was out and I was installing the pump I inserted the rod and turned the engine. It SEEMED to go out, and then I had to push it back in.

What is that with pretensioning? Any existing thread about it?

Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:21 am

So, I pulled the pump. Tried ti press it with fingers and guess what! It works great. The first time I pushed that tab in the fuel came squirting out of the port.

I think the problem is with the pushrod. I had to use pliers to get it out.

When I push it in it goes smoothly until here:

Then I have to push it pretty hard, or tap it with something to get it in this far:

I looked into the hole and I think that I see the crankshaft in there.

My pushrod wasn't very shiny so I polished it, but it didn't help.

So it looks like the engine pushes that rod out, but the spring on the pump is just too weak to push it back in. The rod is from my old engine.
What can I do? Looks like I'm going to need that junk electric pump that came with the Remtec engine afterall...

Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:25 am

Try rolling the rod on a piece of glass to check for bends. You may have to touch up the hole with a reamer if there is a bur in it that is stopping the rod from moving smoothly.

Is that a crack on the transmission bellhousing that's been repaired with JB weld?

Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:42 am

FWIW, you are supposed to "pack" the fuel pump (where it mates with the case) with grease.

Wed Jul 28, 2010 5:47 pm

There is no need to pretension the mechanical fuel pump for a T-4. As for packing the lower half of the pump with grease. Not literally. Just give the lower half a good swab of grease on the internals.

Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:00 pm

FYI the type 4 fuel pump pushrod is driven off the camshaft not the crankshaft.