TheSamba.com :: View topic - Resealing...how far to tear down? Lots of other Q's...

Thu Nov 19, 2009 1:36 pm

Hey Guys.

Long time lurker....first time poster.

I've got a blue '72 SB that I am using as a DD here in the Hudson Valley. Bought the car on ebay last August, shipped him out from Sacramento, and have driven about 12k since, almost every day to work.

Have worked through lots of issues with help from the Samba, car now has a Kiefernet 34pict3, new SVDA distributor, Pertronix Igniter & Coil (Stock 1600).

Had bad super shimmies but not anymore - just put in full Topline front end. Also put in some Topline discs up front - too many homicidal drivers around here in NY and the front drums weren't cutting it.

The car has no rot anywhere and I'm trying to keep it that way...although driving in the NY winter, I picked up quite a bit of surface rust underneath in just the past year. Thinking about giving him an oil bath this fall (I know, not very green....)

Anyway, getting a bit long winded here...the reason for this post - the engine runs like a champ and always fires right up. Thank you Keith!! I keep the valves adjusted and change oil every 1500 miles.

But, it leaks pretty badly. Had a massive oil cooler leak when I got it, that has been fixed. Valve covers were leaking badly...first tried EMPI bolt on covers and quickly learned the EMPI lesson, went back to stock with cork gaskets. Still seems to leak. Pushrod seals are all leaking too. Heater boxes are covered with oil and reeks when I try to use the heat. Froze my butt off last winter.

This past weekend, I decided to bolt on ceramic coated Tri-Mil Euro exhaust, as my neighbors have been complaining about the rotted out stocker. Of course, I neglected to consult the Samba first and broke 3 of 4 exhaust studs off in the heads. ](*,) Pulled the motor out to drill them out and did a search here. Discovered the kiefernet "chisel your nuts" solution. Worked like a champ on the front four studs. Just goes to show, NEVER be in a hurry with this stuff. (and always check the samba) I am now trying to find some stepped studs and brass nuts for the muffler project and driving my other car to work while the Dub sits on jackstands with no motor. Bummer.

Just thinking that I need to do something about the oil leaks while the motor is out. I have a complete engine gasket set from Wolfsburg West. Wondering how far I should tear her down. I hate to pull heads since the car is running so well. Spark plugs are stuck in the heads though, so I could address that as well. Any good suggestions there? I don't want to get in a helicoil/insert situation. Been soaking them with PB blaster.

Do the stock style pushrod tubes work as well as the good spring loaded ones? (Is it worth pulling the heads to save the $$ and stay stock?) What other oil leak spots should I be looking at to keep the heater boxes dry? Not sure what is up with the valve covers, any good tricks to get them to seal?

One last question, while I am writing this novel...the only thing I don't like about how the motor is running...when I first start up after sitting for a few hours or more, sounds loud like bearings are running dry for a few seconds, then quiets down. Oil pres light does not come on. Is this normal? I always let it warm up for 30 seconds or so and drive easy for the first few minutes. Also, on August days after a run on the highway, the oil light was coming on when idleing at lights. Step on the gas, and it goes off. I think it was running hot due to dirt around the motor/oil leaks. Should I be thinking about a new oil pump/rebuild? I would love to add a pump with a filter. Is this not recommended over tapping the case for full flow? Any suggestions here?

I know, probably way too many ?'s for one post/thread. But any help greatly appreciated! I think for now I am going to pull the tin off the motor and give it a good cleaning, probably go with the spring loaded pushrod tubes and new seals, fix the exhaust studs, put her back together and drive. Unless you guys tell me otherwise on the oil pressure issue....

Thanks in advance for any help...this site is an awesome resource!

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:03 pm

Check the main crankshaft seal, mine leaked there and it runs all over the bottom and heater boxes, easy to do if the engine is out...

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:25 pm

superdubbr wrote: Do the stock style pushrod tubes work as well as the good spring loaded ones? (Is it worth pulling the heads to save the $$ and stay stock?) Not sure what is up with the valve covers, any good tricks to get them to seal?

Should I be thinking about a new oil pump/rebuild? I would love to add a pump with a filter. Is this not recommended over tapping the case for full flow? Any suggestions here?

!

stick with stock pushrod tubes. install with the seams up. you will have to pull the heads but if you dont disturb the pistons and cylinders you will be OK. with the heads removed you will be able to address the spark plugs and exhaust studs issues better. check the insides and between the valves for cracks.

i use a cork/rubber combo gasket with the valve covers without leaks. i use a thin coat of liquid gasket seal on the other gaskets and seals. especially the paper gaskets. (i know sometimes you have to use what you can get)

you can pull the oil pump cover off and inspect the gears and pull the one gear out and inspect for wear in the housing. this would be a good time to replace if needed. before you start taking your engine apart you should do a compression check, the dragging could be a ring going bad and since you will be there with the heads off then swap them out. a 1600 single port is a tough torquy engine.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:26 pm

Thanks for the advice! The Ebayer I bought the car from said he installed a new rear main seal. I am a little confused on this one as everyone seems to mix up front and rear on these motors. As Muir says - "front" is Front...right? So I assume main crank seal is the one on the front of the motor, behind the flywheel, right? Do I have to split the case to change this one? It was a little bit oily in the bellhousing when I pulled the motor, but I've seen a lot worse pics on here. How about the seal on the back of the motor? Pain to change?

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:44 pm

the crank seal is behind the flywheel. here is a picture of a bus seal but it is the same ideal. the red piece is the seal and you gently pry it out and evenly tap the new one back in. there is also a small o ring on the inside of the hub of the flywheel. not a hard project. the hardest part will be getting the flywheel center/grland nut off.

while you have the flywheel off. check the cam plug for leaks. i dab a little silicone on the outside of it, just in case it was the cause of the leak.

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:51 pm

Thanks for the pics, those are awesome! Forgot to mention I own a Bentley manual and the Muir book, so I'm not flying totally blind here. What's the easiest way to get off the gland nut? I assume I need a flywheel lock. I've read on here that the nut is torqued to 250 ft lbs. Would it be a bad idea to put a 1/2 air ratchet on it to remove?

Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:59 pm

superdubbr wrote: Would it be a bad idea to put a 1/2 air ratchet on it to remove?

No, that's actually the best way. I myself used a 1/2" electric impact wrench to remove my flywheel the last time I removed it (to replace the oil seal).

I've done this many times before using the flywheel lock and giant pipe on Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar method.

Fri Dec 04, 2009 6:45 pm

Get the torque tool. It's silly how easy it is to take off and to put on with the right amount of torque. Once my buddy saw this video, he came over and stole it from me.

Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:28 pm

OK first VW Aircooled bugs don't leak oil, they mark their spot.
javascript:emoticon(':lol:')

Now as far as a seal kit goes there really aren't many seals or gaskets to change in a vw type 1 engine.

Seals, gaskets and sealer:
Front/flywheel (Oring and seal)
Pushrod tubes
Oil cooler
The seam between case halves is sealed with Aviation sealer not silicone.
Cylinder bases where they fit into case.
Cam plug.
Oil screen and drain plate.
Dizzy shaft
Fuel Pump to case.
Alternator/Generator stand to case.
Valve covers.
Where cylinder studs enter the head.

Where I have had the most leaks:

Pushrod tubes.
Main front crank shaft to flywheel seal.
Cylinder bases
Cylinder studs into Heads.
Oil drain plate (especially when I added a deep sump).