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Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:20 am

johnshenry wrote: I have a whole drawer of "homemade" tools

it's spec'd out in the VW local manufacture catalog and shown in service manuals. i can not claim it to be my own original idea.

Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:34 am

Little bit of heat works wonders too, especially with dissimilar metal / alloys.

Thu Mar 03, 2011 1:27 pm

Some additional discussion on this topic here as well:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...mp;start=0

Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:41 pm

johnshenry wrote: Does anyone know where to buy Waxoyl in the US (online preferably). Lots of UK sellers, including this "cavity injection kit":

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=474964&p_n=474964

I found a Rover parts dealer in the US that sells an areosol can of it so far that is it....

You can purchase a great product from you friendly neighborhood Volvo dealer. Ask for part number 1161480. Not exactly cheap but it goes a long way.

Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:56 pm

John not sure if they would do it or not but some jobbers / engine rebuilders have heated chemical dip vats to boil off crud on engine blocks. Might be an option to clean it up. Especially after blasting it, you know how that sand gets everywhere.

Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:30 am

the original VW tool to remove the bushings was a long slide hammer with a long threaded rod on the end. It had thick washers that were a little smaller than the ID of the tubing. They were cut flat on two sides so they could be slipped in through the bushing and they had an oval hole so you could tilt it on the threaded rod. You put the washer on the rod put the nut on the end, tilted the washer, slipped it in through the bushing, Jiggled the washer until it was catching on the back of the bushing then started sliding away on the hammer.

Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:28 am

splitjunkie wrote: the original VW tool to remove the bushings was a long slide hammer with a long threaded rod on the end. It had thick washers that were a little smaller than the ID of the tubing. They were cut flat on two sides so they could be slipped in through the bushing and they had an oval hole so you could tilt it on the threaded rod. You put the washer on the rod put the nut on the end, tilted the washer, slipped it in through the bushing, Jiggled the washer until it was catching on the back of the bushing then started sliding away on the hammer.

Sounds just like what Jon made (and said it was from the original design).

I guess they didn't have sawzalls back then........ :wink:

Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:04 am

yes, VW special tool for local manufacture. i don't have my copy here or i would scan it.
as i mentioned, the one i made in the pics was for a Bus application. i have used this on Type 1 as well using a different thrust plate (smaller o.d.).
Bus service manual pic:

i looked in a later type 1 service manual, and it also looks like a local manufacture tool (based on the tool number). yes, there is a slide hammer shown removing the needle bearings and inner bushing. i can't imagine how difficult it would be to use a slide hammer on the early style bushings, as they are usually very difficult to remove, at least on a Bus beam they are.

i have removed the late style needle bearings with a puller, but they seem to be able to be removed much more easily.

here's the puller i've used on later needle bearings, outer. don't know how well this would work on the earlier bushings. i would think it would crush the beam before moving the bushings:

anyway, i guess the point is that the original style driver plate is not difficult to make and works well, especially if you want to reuse the bushings. you can't do that if you use a sawzall. ;)

Fri Mar 04, 2011 2:24 pm

johnshenry wrote: Does anyone know where to buy Waxoyl in the US (online preferably). Lots of UK sellers, including this "cavity injection kit":

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=474964&p_n=474964

I found a Rover parts dealer in the US that sells an areosol can of it so far that is it....

Hi John,
Moss Motors sells it.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69914&SortOrder=2

John C

Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:16 pm

jcolosim wrote: johnshenry wrote: Does anyone know where to buy Waxoyl in the US (online preferably). Lots of UK sellers, including this "cavity injection kit":

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=474964&p_n=474964

I found a Rover parts dealer in the US that sells an areosol can of it so far that is it....

Hi John,
Moss Motors sells it.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69914&SortOrder=2

John C

Good deal, thanks.......!

Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:54 am

so are you going to be fitting select-a-drop or avis style adjusters? :lol:

Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:36 pm

now for a serious question.

it is a little off topic but do you know it the frame head surrounding metal and the beam mount piece itself is the same for a pre 56 pan to a 56 on pan? the pan that needs the sheet metal is a 54.

thanks.
henry.

Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:50 pm

henry roberts wrote: now for a serious question.

it is a little off topic but do you know it the frame head surrounding metal and the beam mount piece itself is the same for a pre 56 pan to a 56 on pan? the pan that needs the sheet metal is a 54.

thanks.
henry.

What, the first question wasn't serious? :wink:

I think the frame head/beam mount area is the same split vs. late oval, but I could be wrong. I don't think the beam setup really changed until the ball joint beams came out. Perhaps others with experience here could chime in.....

Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:19 pm

johnshenry wrote: I think the frame head/beam mount area is the same split vs. late oval, but I could be wrong. I don't think the beam setup really changed until the ball joint beams came out. Perhaps others with experience here could chime in.....

One obvious difference will be the mechanical versus cable brakes, and there may be some subtle differences up in the e-brake area between the later ovals and splits.

Thu Mar 17, 2011 6:27 pm

nlorntson wrote: johnshenry wrote: I think the frame head/beam mount area is the same split vs. late oval, but I could be wrong. I don't think the beam setup really changed until the ball joint beams came out. Perhaps others with experience here could chime in.....

One obvious difference will be the mechanical versus cable brakes, and there may be some subtle differences up in the e-brake area between the later ovals and splits.

do you mean hydraulic versus cable brakes?

Thu Mar 17, 2011 7:49 pm

Boom wrote: do you mean hydraulic versus cable brakes?

Yep.. :oops: