TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:55 pm

Yeah, so I don't have any lower cooling tins (the ones under the push rod tubes) and no Thermostat to be seen..... I don't know if the flaps are open or shut, is there a way to tell? Don't really see any linkage either. How can I fix these issues ... Does the motor need dropped?
I thought everything was done right! It was supposedly a "good" build by someone in CA.... :( had her a year, only 500-700 miles, maybe, since I got her.

thank you all!

Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:22 pm

Probably doesn't have flaps. Look for the rod that runs thru. Tough to get the lower tin on cause of the front heat exchangers.

Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:12 pm

Look between the distributor (where the adjustment clamp is) and the fan shroud casting. You either see the 3/8" or so diamter shaft running side to side, or not. If the shaft is missing, so are the flaps. Typical California rebuilder mistake.

Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:24 pm

indeed,ktphil, no shaft or linkage for the thermo....
What should I do to correct this as best as possible? Should I get the lower cooling tins? Bentley is not much help in this area, just a brief description... tried searching too, to no avail...

Thanks again

Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:08 pm

Depending on weather, you may be able to wait until the next time the motor is out, which will make it easier (or possible) to do the job.

Just be sure to have everything you need, including tiny bits like e-clips for the actuating rods, brackets, etc., before you start.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:35 pm

I have run w/out flaps and thermostat for several years. Doesn't warm up correctly. I would put the lower tin on. Consider the oil cooler exhaust and heat should blow out the back, cool the under side some,etc.
Meantime check temp. You should be able to touch the hot oil and tailpipe....
briefly :D. but you'll figure it out.
edit: oh and check and see if they put something between tin and oil cooler so it's not blowing over the top of it.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:54 pm

jlew wrote: Yeah, so I don't have any lower cooling tins (the ones under the push rod tubes) and no Thermostat to be seen...How can I fix these issues ... Does the motor need dropped?
I thought everything was done right! It was supposedly a "good" build by someone in CA.... :( had her a year, only 500-700 miles, maybe, since I got her.

thank you all!

You'll need to pull the engine out to fix it. I'm surprised you've actually gotten 500 to 700 miles on it without the lower tins. But then, it's probably been cool enough to help it live.
To fix it, you'll need to pull the heads in order access the bottom of the cylinders to instal the little pieces of tin that will allow your engine to live a long life. Since you'll have it torn down that far, that would be the best time to add the cooling flaps, rod, and linkage pieces along with the T-stat.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:54 pm

i have an extra type 3 rod lever. i may have the bracket too. pm me if your interested

Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:00 pm

Someone posted a photo showing the various linkage designs over the years. They are not all identical. Worth a search.

EDIT: Found this of Everett's:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=92910

Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:32 pm

I guess for now I'll just get the lower tins, get the thermo whenever I have to redo the motor, whenever that is.

Most of the other tins look intact from what I could see.

Quote: I'm surprised you've actually gotten 500 to 700 miles on it without the lower tins. But then, it's probably been cool enough to help it live.
It's been over a year, and that was through all last summer driving without the lower tins. drove to the bug out, 200 miles, last May.
Do you think the lower tins gone, would kill the motor that quickly?!?

thanks again y'all

Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:28 am

Here are all the tins. #3 & #4 are commonly missing, and they are very important.

Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:33 am

Thanks Russ!!
Let me look and see if I can visual see those two tonight. Are they best viewable from the top side or bottom?

Thanks again!!

Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:43 am

From the bottom.

Fri Feb 12, 2010 12:04 am

holy crap, I just realized I'm missing 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, and the entire bottom row. Can't believe the engine ran fine before I took it out...

Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:01 am

You will not have a 10 or 11.
That is for very early cars only.
But you definitely want 3 and 4.

You can live without the 17a and 18. But you definitely need the 16's.
Lot of cooling air lost without 3 & 4, and 16.

Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:11 am

Correct me if I'm wrong but the most critical part is # 27. If that (refered to as Super Cool tin) is not there you are born to blow. I've not seen a Type three with #9.

3 and 4 are the next two most critical.

Thermo and flaps are nice but don't loose sleep ove it. (unless your in the snow belt, and don't have time for a warm up (5 min or so) Be far more worried about who rebuilt it.

Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:51 am

#9 looks to be the little deflectors above the pushrod tubes. Yikes! Lots of work to get those in now.

Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:54 pm

Bezzer wrote: Correct me if I'm wrong but the most critical part is # 27. If that (refered to as Super Cool tin) is not there you are born to blow. I've not seen a Type three with #9.

3 and 4 are the next two most critical.

Thermo and flaps are nice but don't loose sleep ove it. (unless your in the snow belt, and don't have time for a warm up (5 min or so) Be far more worried about who rebuilt it.

Only 72-73 Type 3's ever got the cool tins. Prior to that it was the #9's.
That is why there are 2 different #3 & 4.

Carbed bugs never got them. But the FI bugs did.

Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:41 pm

can someone take a pic of the #9 installed??? I'd like to make sure I have that installed...

Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:15 pm

Can anyone give some insight as to where #25 is located?