TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:30 pm

Only if you are running type 1 or 3 axle.

Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:38 pm

"Now using a hammer, pound in the rubber oil seal into the bearing cover. Use some oil to lubricate the bearing cover and hammer until the seal is fully seated into the cover. You'll have to use a bigger socket than what you used to remove the old seal from the bearing cover. Once it is pounded it, install the metal ring back into the oil seal."

If your like me and don't have a big socket the perfect (and inexpensive) alternative is a 1.5" PVC pipe cap. It fits losely inside the seal perfectly. I used a rubber mallet on the cap that I picked up for 60 cents and the seal went right in.

Any 1.5" scheudle 40 PVC fitting should work just fine. The cap was easy due to the closed end!

Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:51 am

bpalmer2003 wrote: "Now using a hammer, pound in the rubber oil seal into the bearing cover. Use some oil to lubricate the bearing cover and hammer until the seal is fully seated into the cover. You'll have to use a bigger socket than what you used to remove the old seal from the bearing cover. Once it is pounded it, install the metal ring back into the oil seal."

If your like me and don't have a big socket the perfect (and inexpensive) alternative is a 1.5" PVC pipe cap. It fits losely inside the seal perfectly. I used a rubber mallet on the cap that I picked up for 60 cents and the seal went right in.

Any 1.5" scheudle 40 PVC fitting should work just fine. The cap was easy due to the closed end!

I was recently at the hardware store and picked up one of these. It fits perfectly, thanks for the tip. It cost $.79. Nice and light, would fit easily in a toolbox. Easy to find (any hardware store) if in an on-the-side-of-the-road emergency, too.

BTW, my pic shows a bearing cap that is not for a bus, it was just one I had sitting around in my pile O crap.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:01 pm

bherder wrote: far rider wrote: Thanks for taking the time to document the procedure. For the mechanically challenged, like myself, it is a major help to 'see' the procedure as well as read it. Thanks again.

I'm going to write procedures w/ pictures for all the work that I do. I'm mechanically challenged myself, I just read a lot and then act on what I read. It takes longer than someone who knows what they are doing, but hopefully I can help others that are like me. Being like you, I, too thank you! (although managed to figure this one out already!)

Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:52 pm

i have allway used both the smaller seal with the large one aswell. and over 20 years never had a leak. the larger one has no effect on the smaller one it's like a back up. I'm just saying

Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:52 am

Another great posting on Samba. Easy to use and made my weekend chore of changing the seal EASY..

thx

Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:04 am

Eric&Barb wrote: Only if you are running type 1 or 3 axle.

sorry tho bring this back up :-)
but I need to do the same thing on a rebuild smallnut tranny (currently there is nothing mounted on the RGB's)

Why is 6 only for 1200cc, and how can I see that my transaxle was build for a 1200cc?

Other question, that Oring with a big diameter, if part 11 has an "indent" for it, why wouldn't I mount it?

Mon Jan 02, 2012 8:28 am

the number 6 that is included in new seal kit is too soft material. if you install it it will cut the o-ring. leave it out during assembly.

Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:20 am

bill may wrote: the number 6 that is included in new seal kit is too soft material. if you install it it will cut the o-ring. leave it out during assembly.

If you can locate the sabo kits the #6 washer is like the original and can be used