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Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:19 pm

Only if the bus is equipped with power brakes, standard equipment for the US and Canada but maybe not for Nicaragua. Look under the front, if the pushrod from the pedal goes directly into the master cylinder and the M/C is bolted to a bracket under the floor they are non power, if there is an approximately 10" disc shaped chamber between the rod and master cylinder that's bolted between/behind the beam tubes they need vacuum.

Those are odd plug wires, most screw into the ends of the wire but that looks like it was crimped on, open the crimp, trim the end of the wire and recrimp it if you can. Maybe epoxy it into the outer cover after so it pulls off with it next time.

Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:25 pm

Just figured this out about my bus... Kinda cool.

Original Export destination was Panama.

M-Plate content
Model Type 2 (T2) mod. 231(2) - Kombi, cargo door right, 8 seater, LHD
Chassis number 2322054274
Serial number 054 274
Modelyear 1972
Production date
Type of engine Type 1 (AF) - 1584cc, 34 kW (46 bhp DIN)
Type of transmission Manual 4-speed gearbox
Paint color Color upper part : L345 - Light Grey
Color lower part : L345 - Light Grey
Interior color (doorpanels and seats) 51 - Dark Beige Leatherette

Destination Panama

M-CODES
M-CODE Description Concerned models From chassis number To chassis number
010 Additional dust sealing for engine compartment 211-274
240 Engine with recessed crown pistons for low octane fuel 211-274
500 Full width metal partition between cabin and load compartment with 2-seater passenger seat 211-244
503 Lining-roof panel (hard board) 211-216
231
234
508 With vent wing in passenger compartment opposite sliding door 221-244
2x1 2 300 000
508 With vent wing in sliding door and in all windows in the opposite side panel 221-244
2x2 2 000 001 2x7 2 300 000
508 Sliding window in the side panel opposite the sliding door 271
274
2x2 2 000 001
508 With vent wing in the Double Cab door and in the opposite side panel 265-268
2x2 2 000 001

Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:37 am

Not power breaks so I think im just going to cut it off and seal the hole. Unless there or some strong objections.

Busdaddy what did you mean by old wire. Time wise or the design?

(I still haven't figured out how to quote).

Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:25 am

VWNica wrote: Not power breaks so I think im just going to cut it off and seal the hole. Unless there or some strong objections.

Busdaddy what did you mean by old wire. Time wise or the design?

(I still haven't figured out how to quote).

Use the quote button at the top right of each reply :wink:

I said odd, not old, as in they don't look like the steel wire core cables used on VW's but more like the carbonized string or paper cored cables used on current cars. Depending on thier resistance you may have to modify your rotor (remove the resisitor) or find one from the same manufacturer as the cables.

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:14 pm

it's cool to see someone on here from Nicaragua, my 73 spent some time there in the early 90's and still has the inspection/registration stickers on the windshield, now it's way up north on the east coast of Canada, still in excellent overall condition because it hasn't been winter driven, good luck with your bus, seems like your learning a lot like myself. if parts are expensive, can you order them online from one of the many vendors in the U.S.?

Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:19 pm

Quote: I said odd, not old, (still haven't figured it out ha ha)

Guess I should learn to read :wink:

Ya those cables are crap im just going to use the old ones that still work. Hopefully I can get my money back. The only problem now is that I cant the the little piece that is still on the end on the spark plug off even with pliers. Oh well there is always tomorrow.

Just wish I was driving her again...walking sucks.

Ya there are some VWs here. Mostly bugs but some buses.

Im gonna check out Honduras and it what the have is crap I guess its mail order. The only problem is that mail here has a habit of getting "lost"

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Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:45 pm

I have also been having a strange sound and thought that maybe you fine people could help me out.

It first started driving on the highway and thought it was just my back seat bouncing around but then realized it wasn't. Then it got a whole lot worse and really scared me. It was like a scraping noise, rhythmic not in time with the motor or speed and went away when I pushed the clutch pedal in. There is also a slight scraping noise when I change gears.

The noise only really come out when the engine is hot(like after driving for at least 30 min) and I can always make it happen by accelerating(no noise) and then taking my foot off the gas and allowing the engine to brake the car(noise).

I was kinda poking around and have a slight feeling that it could be CV Joint?

Thoughts please.

I figure they have to be changed anyways :wink:

Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:06 am

Another question.

I have everything put back together now but it wont start. All the wiring is back where it should be(I think).

The negative terminal of the batterie is getting hot as well as the positive of the coil.

Whats goin on.

Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:16 am

Sorry I guess I should explain a bit better. The wire that come out from inside the alternator goes to the - side of the coil. I have a wire that goes to the electrical choke and goes to the + and another wire coming from the + that kinda disappears around the right side of the motor(not to sure where that goes but it goes somewhere.)

Sat Jan 09, 2010 9:14 am

I have another question.

The CV Joint that attaches to the transmission on the right side moves back and forth (front to back of the bus) The whole thing moves including the bolts. I tried tightening the bolts but there is no movement.

Please tell me that there is something I can do and that I dont need a new transmission :(

Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:36 pm

VWNica wrote: I have another question.

The CV Joint that attaches to the transmission on the right side moves back and forth (front to back of the bus) The whole thing moves including the bolts. I tried tightening the bolts but there is no movement.

Please tell me that there is something I can do and that I dont need a new transmission :(

Nope; you just need new axles/CV joints.

Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:39 pm

VWNica wrote: Sorry I guess I should explain a bit better. The wire that come out from inside the alternator goes to the - side of the coil. I have a wire that goes to the electrical choke and goes to the + and another wire coming from the + that kinda disappears around the right side of the motor(not to sure where that goes but it goes somewhere.)

Positive wire from your alternator should go to your battery. Then the positive side of the coil should be connected to the ignition (fused positive lead) Positive side of the coil also to choke and electro cut-off jet/solenoid. Negative side of coil to distributor.

Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:47 pm

Great thanks for all the help!

Finally after about 3 weeks of not being able to drive my bus, Today I finally got her back on the road :D All I wanted to do was change the carb. Oh well I guess thats what its like owning a VW.

I replace my shocks, which was a good thing because the back right shock had no resistance what so ever. KYB oil for the back and Unicorn made in Korea from the front. They are all I could find. It rides much smoother now!

Also changed the tie-rod ends. Brazilian but they seem pretty good.

Now the only thing left is an alignment and im ready to go! (besides the CV joints. Which are coming).

I will post some pics soon.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:30 pm

Hey everyone sorry its been a while without posting. I haven't had that much time (or money for that matter) to work on the bus but I have done some little things.

Had a problem with the batterie not charging but got that fixed still don't understand what was happening but the batterie now charges. The horn stopped working for a while, its a button on the dash, but after like a week of fighting with the thing, finally looking at it again and a wire had come loose duh!

Also was having trouble starting the thing but it turned out to be the timing was off.

None of that was that interesting I know, I just like writing what has been going on in my VW world.

Anyways the same guy from the hubcap story came by again just a little while ago and sold me 4 basically brand new chrome hubcaps for $20. They are a little dirty but a good wash and a polish and they will be just like new. Gotta love the hubcap delivery!

So I have a couple of questions:

1: I have a brand new carb, Bocar from Mexico and there seams to be gas leaking out of it. Its on tight, new gasket, and cant really see where it is coming from. Any thoughts?

2: I have these tubes that run up and down the back vents, the ones that go into the engine compartment, and have no idea what they are.

3: My tail pipe kinda broke off. It wont come out so it cant fall off but I was wondering if this is bad for the engine. I have heard about back pressure....

4: Ok this last one may be kinda dumb but it looks like I have the sliding door thingy on both sides of the bus. Obviously I use the one on the right side of the bus but why the other as well.

Once again thanks for all the help and support.

Oh and I have a Bentley coming to me in like 2 weeks :wink: .

Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:50 pm

The tubes in the vents are part of the fuel vapor recovery system. Make sure all the fuel hose connections are good in the engine compartment or you will bu putting fuel vapor where you don't want it.

The sliding door thing is normal. I'm not sure what i'm looking at with the exhaust, it looks rusted out and someone tried to 'fix it' with brass

Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:17 am

Well I guess thats solves the question of why the bus stinks like gas all the time.

Like I said I have the Bentley coming to me on Monday. Is this an easy hook up or does it involve removing the firewall and therefor dropping the engine.

I ask because I would like to do this as soon as posable. The family and I use the bas daily and would like to get rid of the gas fumes.

Thanks again for all the help!