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Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:00 pm

millerje78 wrote: thanks! I love it, only wish I would have built it bigger! isn't that always the case though. the best thing I did was putting in-floor heat in there. concrete stays nice and warm. Holy Canoli :shock: A garage with a heated floor? Rock on!
My garage/shed makes the Unabomber's shack look like Bill Gates' house. :roll: :oops:

Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:11 pm

Ronny Bailey wrote: millerje78 wrote: thanks! I love it, only wish I would have built it bigger! isn't that always the case though. the best thing I did was putting in-floor heat in there. concrete stays nice and warm. Holy Canoli :shock: A garage with a heated floor? Rock on!
My garage/shed makes the Unabomber's shack look like Bill Gates' house. :roll: :oops:

haha. for some reason, having a heated floor doesn't make me any better at restoring volkswagens. :lol:

Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:34 am

I got some donor windows from a super bug and thought I might use the doors but the trim line is higher then the 69 Bug I have. It looks like your doors are from a standard Bug. :?
Bob

Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:09 am

flierbob wrote: I got some donor windows from a super bug and thought I might use the doors but the trim line is higher then the 69 Bug I have. It looks like your doors are from a standard Bug. :?
Bob

well thats strange then. I wonder if there were changes in trim location sometime between 68 and 73?? maybe my drivers door is from a super beetle?

Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:14 am

next issue...this bolt is stuck and I mean it. the 17mm no longer fits its so deteriorated. any suggestions?

Weld a large nut on top of it, from the inside of the threads. The heat will help break it loose and after it cools, heat the cast steel around where the bolt threads in and it should come off. Sometimes I weld a large flat washer to the rounded off bolt head, and then weld a nut around the outside to the washer to get stuck bolts out. You can also weld a washer and then a nut to a bolt with the head broken off, and this usually will get them out.

Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:03 am

PatterBon wrote: Very nice project! Glad to see another 73 getting the attention it deserves, good luck with it and I look forward to seeing how it turns out! :D
what he said...
BTW:
PO's suck :lol:

Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:00 pm

yeah you can definitely replace that rusted wheel well with the body on the pan. we replaced most of the entire rear driver side clip and wheel well from where it was hit back in 2003

actually i dont even think we ever took the wheel off and i think it turned out really nicely

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:12 pm

Fattie wrote: PatterBon wrote: Very nice project! Glad to see another 73 getting the attention it deserves, good luck with it and I look forward to seeing how it turns out! :D
what he said...
BTW:
PO's suck :lol:

yeah, but there again, I have been "that guy" before too that hacked a bug up for the next guy. :lol:

I suppose rather than trying to relocate the holes in my door I will seek a donor door with accurate hole placement. I hate to do that though, its such a nice door, all the rubber is nice and the scrapers are pristine. :? maybe I'll just live with it...wait...no I won't. It'll bug me everytime I look at it. :lol:

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:17 pm

forkzilla wrote: next issue...this bolt is stuck and I mean it. the 17mm no longer fits its so deteriorated. any suggestions?

Weld a large nut on top of it, from the inside of the threads. The heat will help break it loose and after it cools, heat the cast steel around where the bolt threads in and it should come off. Sometimes I weld a large flat washer to the rounded off bolt head, and then weld a nut around the outside to the washer to get stuck bolts out. You can also weld a washer and then a nut to a bolt with the head broken off, and this usually will get them out.

Success!! :) while I didn't use the method described above, I appreciate the new ideas you guys give me. I wound up spraying it with PB Blaster last night, then this afternoon I beat a notch into the bolt head with a chisel. heat with propane torch,pound the shit out of it, repeat. it finally gave up and came out without breaking on the third cycle.

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:18 pm

thats some fine work there, air cooled75. looks like you really got into something there before it was all said and done. 8)

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:26 pm

The newer doors have a reinforcing piece inside behind the window also, side crash protection. That may be why they moved the trim line.
Get the holes welded shut and put new holes in for the trim. :) Good luck with the project.
Bob

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:35 pm

flierbob wrote: The newer doors have a reinforcing piece inside behind the window also, side crash protection. That may be why they moved the trim line.
Get the holes welded shut and put new holes in for the trim. :) Good luck with the project.
Bob

easy for you to say, you can probably weld far better than I can. :lol:

Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:42 pm

I use the grinder a lot. :D
Bob

Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:34 pm

got a little work done today.

cut out that rusted body mount and the surrounding area as well. I also wrestled that pesky bolt out of its nest. while I was in there, I removed the shock as well. figured I'd never have as good of a view as I have right now without that body mount panel in the way.

a close up of my victory over that body mount bolt. :)

replacement panel mocked up. I still have a little grinding to get it just right before I weld it in. what is that little hole with the two bolts around it for?

Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:04 pm

That hole with the studs are for the z-bar that came on '67-68 bugs. What year is your replacement panel from? or is it new

Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:33 pm

rustfree1967bug wrote: That hole with the studs are for the z-bar that came on '67-68 bugs. What year is your replacement panel from? or is it new

its a new danish piece of sheet metal. nice quality I might add. should stiffen things up nicely back there. now we'll see if I know how to weld. :lol: pretty sure I don't.

Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:37 pm

Yeah iv'e never welded either. I keep telling myself one of these days i'll find a project that i'll learn to weld on. It just scares me though

Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:43 pm

rustfree1967bug wrote: Yeah iv'e never welded either. I keep telling myself one of these days i'll find a project that i'll learn to weld on. It just scares me though

well we're going to find out tomorrow afternoon when I get home. hopefully I don't screw it up too badly.

Thu Jan 07, 2010 3:36 pm

I worked on the bug a little today. I welded in the replacement panel for the one I cut out yesterday, which I will not post pictures of. I am EMBARRASSED at the ugliness of my welding. :oops: it aint pretty but its solid.

I took out the pedal cluster as well. the pin(bolt) that holds the accelerator pedal on is seized. the brake pedal bushing is sloppy, and the clutch cable hook is showing wear and tear. should I just replace it? does anyone rebuild these?

also, I am STRUGGLING to get the driver side rear axle nut to come loose. any suggestions? do I need an impact?

Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:09 pm

an impact gun is a must have for a job like that in my opinion. I put a lot of kroil on mine before I tried to mess with it at all... put it on a few times a day over about 3 or 4 days, then hit it with an impact gun and after a little bit of protest, it zipped right off.