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Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:45 am

germansupplyscott wrote: boxxcar wrote: GERMAN SPPY Scott?

loctite 518 on the pump and cover, no gaskets. it won't leak.

THANKS! i'm on it. Before I try to get the 518 on a saturday, I have some Loctite 574 in your experience could that sub for 518? I used the 574 on my cases- pump is harder or different to seal?

Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:26 am

I use permatex ultra black. run a ring in the corner of the pump body and flange area. doesn't need to be a ton, just a decent bead. gasket and slip er in. I use the same stuff between the pump and cover, with gasket, after blueprinting the pump to 000 clearence.

Sat Jun 19, 2010 8:17 am

boxxcar wrote: germansupplyscott wrote: boxxcar wrote: GERMAN SPPY Scott?

loctite 518 on the pump and cover, no gaskets. it won't leak.

THANKS! i'm on it. Before I try to get the 518 on a saturday, I have some Loctite 574 in your experience could that sub for 518? I used the 574 on my cases- pump is harder or different to seal?

DID some searches and 518 certainly comes up as more popular. For 518 also they term it gasket maker. Found some tech specs at loctite . IT seems they are getting this one into more press on.

maybe the flaps has it- it could save me one more reseal after this one.

It can't be OK? :shock: just to bolt pump up and run engine w/o fan till Oil hits 180 or so is it? Or is fully bolted up road test the best method ? This I ask....

Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:06 pm

boxxcar wrote: It can't be OK? :shock: just to bolt pump up and run engine w/o fan till Oil hits 180 or so is it? Or is fully bolted up road test the best method ? This I ask....

I would never consider running the engine for more than a minute or two without the fan. The heads and cylinders will heat up far, far faster than the oil...

Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:21 pm

WhirledTraveller wrote: boxxcar wrote: It can't be OK? :shock: just to bolt pump up and run engine w/o fan till Oil hits 180 or so is it? Or is fully bolted up road test the best method ? This I ask....

I would never consider running the engine for more than a minute or two without the fan. The heads and cylinders will heat up far, far faster than the oil...

which reminds me how are your head temps on these 80+ degree days?

I'm indicating a little over 400F after some big hill cresting duty cycles.

i didn't want to alarm with my question, i would monitor CHT. But probably without extreme circumstances, engine dyno, rolling rd, the road is my best test.

Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:13 am

....As foresaged by the wiser ones I believe exhaust valve stretch or seat movement is again settling upon the valvetrain particularly the AVP reman heads of this 75 1.8 T4

three out of four exhausts took .006 at the last 1500 mile interval. :wink:

I've been driving the wheels off the bus and have greatly improved performance with fresh heads/jugs and Raby Cam Thanks Busman 78!.

With the auto R&P I'm cruising at 56 with 3800 rpm. In a nice part of the powerband. I have about a 1000 rpm above and frequently rev to 4800 where presaged signing off/breathing shortcomings do occur. ( just when revving out to max auto shift points). Like I mentioned 3800rpm is a nice part of this setup's powerband.

Oil temps and head temps are trending high 220+/400 on 80/90degree hot days or after WOT dutycycles. 190/375 on 70 degree ambient temps.

I'm gathering early Bay exhaust pcs, and 4into1 1 3/8 x 2 3/8 collector. I should call Todd at Rimco, or HAM to source good heads. I probably don't have a plan to change cranks and go up in displacement yet.
? Would the 1.8 heads fit/suit a 2L (+) setup? or maybe thats a good question for the head builder?

Thanks
EK

Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:55 am

Am ordering CS heads today. Luckily a pair is in stock so low lead time for these.

1. Raby CS Heads(ordered)

2. Valvetrain kit (pushrods, rockers,adjusters) cam in already.

3. Deck Cases (as suggested by Hoffman, Raby, and Verden Tool-my machinistas)

4. Reseal/Replace oil pump - ? has availabilty improved regarding T4 oil Pumps? I'm using a Schadek which weeps oil,fits loose, but gives apparent acceptable pressure.
4a. Adding an oil line and cooler @ pressure sensor. Idea is to increase volume of oil, with only a /1/64 dia orifice controlling feed, and return back into case/sump.
4b.& or Add big sump.

5. Early Heater boxes, and 1 5/8 exhaust/ 2 1/2"muffler which needs fitting/fabbing.

6. My cases are tapped and plugged already.

7. of course I will have to set up deck and CR again, though I have yet to confirm combustion chamber volume etc..

anyone care to chime in?

Still making corrections ... trans and compression trouble.

I did a compression test and got 95 out of a couple and 115 from the others.

last build i used a 20K mile set of takeoff pistons and cylinders rerung with a popular ring set from Bus Depot.. I probably didn't hone well enough with my craftsman hone, and might of done a transgression with the ZINC additive in my breakin oil.
wondering how to treat this for my rebuild now...

any thoughts ?

thanks
EK

Sat Sep 10, 2011 3:00 pm

engine apart for some recommended case deck clearance cleanup. (never did it since I owned this Bus.

If my 93mm jugs and pistons are out of spec, I wonder If i should consider building as 2.0.

crank is available for a nominal consideration. rods as well.

rabyCS heads 9550 cam on hand.
would still run L Jet but with 2.0 injectors.

is it worth the effort? people like the Keith Black drop ins, but I have not reserched this.

also i will get a add on sump, but want to plumb a cooler additionally, but just off the oil pressure tapping point. so a way also to increase oil capacity. just a drip feed to fill the circuit, and dump back into the case and rejoin the sump somehow.

?my question is where is good to invite the oil back into the engine at?