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Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:57 am

I'm a noob, so bear with me :)

I have a '79 Westfalia and am trying to install a DD CHT gauge. Do people usually do this install when the engine is pulled?

I pulled the #3 spark plug to install the sensor, but there's hardly any room to work with. Should I just bend the sensor like http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/skin1/images/tech/cht/CHT%20Sender%20Bender.jpg, put it on the spark plug, and tighten it down? Should I route the wires out the spark plug hole in the tin?

Any advice (or pictures!) would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:05 am

Certainly is a whole lot easier to do with the engine out and the tinwork off.

You might be able to put a groove in the head as german supply suggests with flex extension on a dremel too though. (although I Have never tried it) I used a small straight cuting bit and on that had asort of ballon the end that I found at Lowes.

I would probably just treat myself to an engine pull if it were me and do some other housekeeping in there at the same time.

You may want to drill a hole in the tin and use a grommet for the wiring at the same time.

Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:26 pm

I have done it both ways. For the first three years or so that I had my DD, I had the sender ring bent upwards and exiting the engine tin through the sparkplug wire hole. Seemed to work okay.

When I got my new Boston Bob engine a couple years ago, I made the German Supply recomended notch in the cyl head before installing the engine. As Randy says - obviously easier.

Do a search on here for other threads about the dakota digital cht gauge. There are hundreds of them. Some have had issues with the sender ring ovaling out, allowing hot exhaust gasses by, thereby raising temps; others don't remove the crush washer on the sparkplug with good results, and some do remove it; and some advocate not putting it under the spark plug at all, but under another nearby bolt, or JB welding it to the cyl head, so that it doesn't interfere with spark plug changes or maintenance.

I'd recommend you just go with the standard install for now - sender under #3, wires up through the spark plug wire hole. Try it that way for a few months, and decide from there.

Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:50 pm

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to try to install it by bending the sender ring and keeping the engine in. Seems like the easiest solution for right now.

Mon Feb 01, 2010 10:11 pm

I ended up drilling a hole in the tin, bending the sender, and installing it with the engine in...

Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:48 am

Nice job. That looks like a very clean install

Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:51 pm

How are your temps running?

Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:05 pm

Temps seem to be around 370-380 for most city driving. I haven't taken it on any highway trips yet though

Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:44 pm

benjamin.smith wrote: Temps seem to be around 370-380 for most city driving. I haven't taken it on any highway trips yet though

I usually run a bit cooler around town. It will be interesting to see your hwy temps

Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:04 pm

Did you remove the crush ring from the spark plug?

Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:08 pm

Yeh, I cut the crush ring off the sparkplug. I'm planning on changing the sparkplugs here pretty soon, so I'll see if it comes out deformed/ovaled when I do.

Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:30 am

Very nice job!

Do you have any pics of the Gauge in action?

Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:00 pm

Here's an "action" shot ;)

Unfortunately I broke down on the way to work before I got a chance to really see what temps I'm running. The engine hesitated a few times while cruising around 45mph, I pulled into a parking lot where it died. During the hesitations, I watch the rpm's drop to ZERO, which makes me wonder if it's electrical.

After getting towed home, I was able to start it again, but after running for a minute the idle gets really rough. It will almost die, then the idle picks up and goes back to normal for a second, then almost dies again.

I changed the temp II sensor which didn't seem to effect anything. Then I found TWO leaks in the brake booster vacuum line. So I'm hoping that's the problem.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:17 pm

if the tach plummeted to zero even though the engine was still spinning, either the coil lost power (loose connection somewhere) or the poitns are failing spectacularly.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:27 pm

fusername wrote: if the tach plummeted to zero even though the engine was still spinning, either the coil lost power (loose connection somewhere) or the poitns are failing spectacularly.

Bingo! Could also be the coil itself.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:31 pm

The tach definitely bottomed out while the engine was still spinning! I'd had problems with electrical stuff in the past. I'm working on replacing a lot of bad wiring; PO had an engine fire repaired and the mechanic reused a lot of old (melted) wiring :(