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Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:10 pm

After sorting out several problems with carbs, fuel, timing, and fuel lines, my vacuum gauge still jumped from 5" to 10 " I checked for intake leak with ether, and found none. I pulled #3 and #4 plugs to run a compression test, and they felt funny. Had great difficulty screwing gauge hose in. It only took 3 rev's of the hose to be tight. Had 50# in #4 and 40# in number 3. I have 125# in #2 and 118# in #1. At least I now know why it was impossible to dial in the carbs. Using my neighbors mini snake camera, I saw that each spark plug hole had only 3- 3 1/2 threads in back. Everything else was gone. Just smooth cast metal.
So now I must pull the engine. I have no idea what size it is, or how many miles it had. But I do now that the PO drove it into the dirt. When I bought it every component part was trashed, oil was black sludge and a quart low. I asked my neighbor who did the spark plug change on 3 & 4 if anything felt weird when he changed them. He said yes, but thought is was just a aluminum head thing. (Iron is his thing)

Do I buy a rebuild longblock kit or purchase an assembled one? And who should I use for the purchase. I am from MI and am not aware of any world class rebuilders or suppliers around here. MoFoCo will be in Lansing MI in March for the buggy show. Thats 40 min away. I am able to follow rebuilding instructions and have a pretty good shop.

Mike, Russ and the rest of the gang, what do you suggest??

Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:25 pm

Try some spark plug thread inserts on that side first. no engine disassembly required. K-D makes a tap and sleeves. Ask at your parts store for the short 14mm spark plug inserts and the cutting tool from K-D. Grease the cutter to catch the shavings.

Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:26 pm

It doesn't look that easy!!! How far is it to Russ's place in Iowa? blankmange is plenty happy with his new 1776cc Wolfe!

Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:28 pm

finnlndr wrote: After sorting out several problems with carbs, fuel, timing, and fuel lines, my vacuum gauge still jumped from 5" to 10 " I checked for intake leak with ether, and found none. I pulled #3 and #4 plugs to run a compression test, and they felt funny. Had great difficulty screwing gauge hose in. It only took 3 rev's of the hose to be tight. Had 50# in #4 and 40# in number 3. I have 125# in #2 and 118# in #1. At least I now know why it was impossible to dial in the carbs. Using my neighbors mini snake camera, I saw that each spark plug hole had only 3- 3 1/2 threads in back. Everything else was gone. Just smooth cast metal.
So now I must pull the engine. I have no idea what size it is, or how many miles it had. But I do now that the PO drove it into the dirt. When I bought it every component part was trashed, oil was black sludge and a quart low. I asked my neighbor who did the spark plug change on 3 & 4 if anything felt weird when he changed them. He said yes, but thought is was just a aluminum head thing. (Iron is his thing)

Do I buy a rebuild longblock kit or purchase an assembled one? And who should I use for the purchase. I am from MI and am not aware of any world class rebuilders or suppliers around here. MoFoCo will be in Lansing MI in March for the buggy show. Thats 40 min away. I am able to follow rebuilding instructions and have a pretty good shop.

Mike, Russ and the rest of the gang, what do you suggest??

You have another option: rebuild the heads. But, sounds like you have the funds, so you have the best idea considering the circumstances.

As for rebuilding, you can do that yourself, but it takes precision and patience. Use the manuals and you should be fine. Then, have Russ rebuild the heads. I love the heads he rebuilt, and I have not even installed them; he has a procedure for the spark plug threads.

Or, how far are you willing to travel? Russ is Iowa...

Edit: Oh well, took to long to post...

Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:30 pm

Build it yourself. It will be a learning experience. There are several engine builds going on here on The Samba right now.

But the Samba and vwtype3.org is here to help.

As for rebuilding heads. I do those at a very reasonable price. Genuine German heads. I can even repair the spark plug holes and put steel inserts in.
Many of the people here have used my heads.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:52 am

Ok Then.
When I get the engine dropped and the heads pulled, I'll send the heads to the Russ, determine what I have left, BUT WHO do I get the replacement parts from? The threads suggest some suppliers are better than others. Back in the day, Gene Berg was the man and his word was law. That is my only knowledge set. According to the current Berg site, I could pay $ 4500 just for rebuilding parts?
One direction is rebuild the heads, hone cylinders, new rings, call it good.
Another direction is new case, crank (forged) rods, P&C, cam, ......

I don't know squat about VW engines. And I am smart enough to know what I do not know. Having watched an A&E rebuild my Lycoming 540 B4B5, experience is everything. It is really tough if you have a mess of incompatable parts.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:47 am

CBPerformance can supply new Mahle Piston/cyl. Mahle also owns Cima, and CoFap, so the prices may be comparable.
Same for the crank. About anyone can rebuild your rods, or buy a set of rebuilts.
If you need machine work done, ship it to Rimco in California.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:59 am

These guys recommended the How to Rebuild VW Engines by Bill Fisher so I bought it. NOW they're recommending the similar book by Tom Wilson, so you better buy both! :lol:

Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:14 am

I'd add a squirt or 2 of oil, then re-run the compression test. Mostly the rings are shot though. I'd rebuild it myself like others have mentioned. Rimco does quality machine work, and have them install some case savers while they've got the case. Get a crank from them as well, so they can size the main bearings to match the case machining (it'll save you some time). Send the heads to Russ, they'll be done right. Most parts suppliers will have the remaing parts you'll need, so shop around.

I bought a MOFOCO motor a couple of years ago, and what they shipped wasn't exactly what I paid for either. It does run good in my 65 Notch, but ran terrible in my 71 Notch with FI (what it was supposedly built as). A friend of mine bought one of their engines at the buggy show 2 years ago, and within a week had a flat cam in it. He took it back to them, and had them fix it, then after they called picked it up. Not good when you live over 14 hours away from the engine builder.:roll: It's been good since, but having lost the summer made it hard for him to enjoy his car.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:13 pm

Thanx everyone. Rimco and Russ with CB performance. Got it. PLUS two MORE manuals.

Will Do and will take pictures. Russ, I'll get your address when heads ready to ship.

Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:34 pm

Talked with Rimco today. Jeff wants to know if I want 8 dowel install, and what parts do I want balanced.

I told him I would ask the forum.

Plan to drop engine Thursday night outside in sneaux. Probably will continue into Friday. I promise pictures as they will be interesting.

Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:52 pm

Unfortunately, engine will stay in place for a few weeks. I kinda overdid it and the new ticker (transplant) was not happy. I will post the continuing saga as it happens. All the prep is done and taged. RRRRrready to go !!

Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:48 pm

You better hire some neighbor kids to do the grunt work while you Supervise! :idea:

Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:37 pm

Or, that is why you have kids, or grandkids.
I have had multiple surgeries, and when I am working on cars, I just take my time.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:39 am

Mike, Russ, I have learned to take my time. But since I still feel 21yrs old, my mind ends up planning and schedualing far faster than the 'ole body can go. Grandkids are too young ( 1 1/2 and 4 1/2 ) But there is a neighborhood kid who is a gearhead that might work out.
Back in the mid to late 1960's, we used to use 4x4's 2x8's and build a fulcrum and lever deal to drop VW engines. Once did a "A" frame above the back end.
Is the modern way to use a transmission jack or a 24" lift floor jack?

Thanx, Rodney
'

Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:51 am

I use a transmission jack, when it is not too cold. But it is like me. Over 50 years old and does not work in the cold too well.
I also use a second 23" lift floor jack, but many are going the motor cycle lift jack, that you can buy cheap.
I have one, but have never used it. Mine only goes up about 18".

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2792

Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:15 am

I bought a 3 Ton Hi-Lo Harbor Freight jack. You will use the jack a lot working on/under your cars! I put a 12" square of plywood on it to pull VW engines. I slide the engine off the jack on a square of heavy cardboard to slide the engine out from under the car.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:09 pm

I was at Harbor and their foot operated motorcycle jacks had a total height of 17" and 18". I figured I need more than that. (24")
I will start looking for a floor jack.
Thanx guys

Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:10 pm

You can let the car back down over the engine, to make up for the lack of height on the motorcycle jack.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:03 pm

Russ, Thanx. I never thought of that. Pretty simple. WoW. That will work great. Thanx a thousand times.

-Rodney