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Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:53 pm

Ok so I have a '72 standard and I have it lifted a little. I cut, twisted and rewelded the beam and put a body lift on. But looking at pictures on here it seems like every ones car is a lot higher how do you all do it? Oh and my car is a full body car class 11 lookalike with ball joint front end

Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:56 pm

in addition to the cut & turn alot of us also have the lifted spindles on the BJ front end.... also re-index the rear (which looks like you may have done)

How much did you cut & turn? I went with 1/2 inch on a "class 11"

Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:57 pm

The super sweet rides all have wider beams and lifted spindles as well as arms on the rear, usually 3 X 3 and quite often they run coilover shocks at the rear(and sometimes the front). It costs cubic dollars to look that good!!!!!!

Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:08 pm

I twisted it a half inch aswell. And I origanaly twisted the tortion in the back but it made it higher then the front so I put I back to stock. And I know it cost money but I'm only have about $800 so I think I'm doing pretty good for myself. And I have definataly been considering lift spindels just havnt goten around to buying them yet. Any one have any other sugestions?

Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:16 pm

there is always a 3" body lift.

Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:19 pm

Been there done that. Like I said in first post :wink:

Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:10 pm

have you notched your spring plates yet? and reindex the rear . of course then you may have to upgrade your cv's

Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:36 pm

Notched spring plate? What do you mean? And like I said earlier I played with the rear tortion and made it higher then front. All I did was pull the spring plate off and move it one notch on the tortion bar. When I moved it 2 notches it road really rough because the spring plate was riding the stops. But it's back to stock now because it was higher then front I'm going to raise it back up as soon as I raise the front more ( the reason for this thread haha)

Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:02 am

ok so you seem to know about raising the rear since you have done it. But to make the ride not so rough what can be done is to notch the spring plates with a grinder so they dont hit the bottom stop as often. Some people even remove the bottom stop and use straps to stop the suspension on the down ward travel. . The problem is that as you increase the height and downward travel you need to got to larger cv joints like type 2's 19 degrees , 930's that operate at up to 25 degrees i think. because the stock cv's i believe max out at 15 degrees angle of the axle to cv. It basically requires new stub axles for the tranny and wheel , and the new cv joints . I think that the stock axles may still work.??but i'm not sure. I have sway away axles with my type 2 cv's and they have longer splines then stock so they also allow for a little more movement at the cv.

Sounds like if you want more height you need to do this and you might want to get raised front spindles and or taller tires. You should put some stops on your front arms so that the suspension stops before the ball joints or shocks max out.

I have seen what looked like a 3" tranny and engine lift (it put the shifter above the tunnel i think?..) which if you have a body lift would then at least bring your engine up higher for more clearance at the back. I have what i believe is a 1" lift on my engine. and a 3" body lift. type 2 cv's, I like having clearance/height too although it does effect you on the freeway a little more. next time i replace my cv's i'm gonna upgrade to the 930s, notch my plates a little more get longer shocks and get some raised spindles in the front and get some taller tires in the front, probably add another 3" of ride height.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:54 am

also, you mentioned that you took off the spring plate and moved it a notch or two. The splines are different on the inside end of the torsion bar. One end has more splines than the other, which allows you to fine tune the height by rotating the torsion one direction and then the spring plate the other. Do a search on "reindexing torsion bars" and read up on how it works. I've always been lucky and had the outer splines work for me.

Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:32 pm

Thanks for the info on the cv's and yes I know about the tortion being two differant spines I would just adjust which ever came out first and made sure to do the other side the same I didn't want to get to technical with moving he inner splin then the outer