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Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:22 pm

polo wrote: sventinker I get some XML file style failure at yahoo on those links.

joescoolcustoms, you are a very practical person. Nice summary of the remaining work and decisions. 8)

I like the coil positive idea. I wonder if adding a glass fuse to the line in the engine bay would be smart too; fuse the valve to avoid a short at the tank outlet, but also would act a lot like a fusible link. I still think we need to solve the flasher relay issue still but if you remember to never use the flashers unless already stopped, that would take care of it. [edit]btw: which is positive on the coil? terminal 1 (to pump) or 15 (from ignition)? Seems like terminal 1 would make the most sense?

Piping, I'm of the same mind; wait and see. Anyone ever manage a hard pipe connection to the standard reserve valve? Can that be done with compression fitting?

Poll: I'm happy to email the guy I've been dealing with to see if they'd offer a discount, and if he indicates its possible will run the poll.

If a relay is wired to the positive side of the coil (side that ignition wire comes to from the key switch), a fuse could be added between the coil and relay. The relay will just be a switch to trigger the electro valve to operate and will disengage when the ignition is turned off.

The power coming to the switch side of the relay can come direct off of the battery with a properly sized fuse to carry the electro valve amperage, through the relay and to the valve.

Wired this way, the valve opens when the key is turned on and ready to start the engine. The valve will shut when the engine is turned off. The coil positive side will not see and effect because of the milla amp needed to run the relay that switches the power to the valve. Flashers, windshield wipers, lights, radio or anything else will have no effect on the operation of the valve. The power to run the valve will be coming fused direct from the battery.

This wiring style is very simple and requires very little or no modification to the existing wiring in the VW (maybe install another spade terminal onto the coil positive side and attach a wire to the positive side of the battery). No wiring modification up front at the fuse block or key switch.

I like to stay away from fusable links because it is not a simple fix. I reccomend using a inline weather tight style fuse that can be roadside fixed easily and quickly.

THANKS polo for this research and leg work!!! =D>

Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:11 pm

BarryL wrote: polo wrote: I still think we need to solve the flasher relay issue

Would a diode at J3 or the brake light fuse terminal solve it? I don't think they were invented yet when VW did that arrangement. Moss Motors sells a pretty beefy one with spade terminals already on it. Yeah, that'd do it, thanks :-)

Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:26 pm

I understand the concern for a relay but VW already ran the choke heater, some people have idle solenoids, and late '67s have the back-up harness on the coil/ignition terminal. That little fuel solenoid wouldn't be nothing of a draw and you could even use the factory fuse holder like Westy's or back-up lights have.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:38 pm

BarryL wrote: I understand the concern for a relay but VW already ran the choke heater, some people have idle solenoids, and late '67s have the back-up harness on the coil/ignition terminal. That little fuel solenoid wouldn't be nothing of a draw and you could even use the factory fuse holder like Westy's or back-up lights have. I was thinking the same thing and to put an inline fuse on the line from the coil+ to the solenoid valve, with the fuse exposed in the engine bay to act something like a fusible link in a fire...

Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:05 pm

You could even use Aqualarm's system in the engine compartment to give you a head's up if you want a little added security. Feel free to delete this as it isn't exactly what your thread is about.

https://www.aqualarm.net/store/comersus_listItems.asp?idCategory=58

Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:11 pm

polo wrote: BarryL wrote: polo wrote: I still think we need to solve the flasher relay issue

Would a diode at J3 or the brake light fuse terminal solve it? I don't think they were invented yet when VW did that arrangement. Moss Motors sells a pretty beefy one with spade terminals already on it. Yeah, that'd do it, thanks :-)
You could also add a Rabbit fuel pump relay:

The relay would cut off power to the valve any time the engine is not running.

Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:11 pm

I've got a poll running now on the AFC valves here.

If you are interested in getting one, please vote! hopefully we can get us a discount or something.

Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:06 pm

any update on the valve, price, or a package

Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:28 pm

I'm waiting a few more days on the poll thread to see if the number goes up any and then going to the manuf. to see what they can do for us. Haven't got a response back on prices beyond what I've got on the poll thread.

Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:07 pm

8) Just finished putting in a fuel shutoff valve wired thru a relay. Works great. Also installed a starter inhibit relay for theft protection...just want to slow em down some....

Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:12 pm

jeffavatech wrote: 8) Just finished putting in a fuel shutoff valve wired thru a relay. Works great. Also installed a starter inhibit relay for theft protection...just want to slow em down some.... Can you show or explain how you wired the relay, and if your bus wiring is stock, which bus wiring schematic you are working off of?

Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:34 pm

:idea: Well..I used two relays and an inline fuse. The first relay controls the fuel shutoff. It's contolled by the ign switch. The relay contacts are a direct feed from the battery to terminal 30. Terminal 87 then goes to a 5 amp inline fuse and then to the valve. Terminal 85 is wired to the + side of the coil. Terminal 86 goes to ground.
Now the second relay is controlled by a hidden switch.(no, I won't tell you where) hehe. Terminal 30 has a lead going to and connected to the starter feed wire (big red wire). Terminal 87 has a lead going to and connected to the starter terminal (where the big red wire was connected to). Terminal 85 has a power feed from terminal 85 of relay #1. Terminal 86 goes to the hidden switch and from there it goes to a ground. Now if there is a fire, you turn off the ign and the fuel is shut off. If you leave your bus somewhere, deactivate the starter by way of the hidden switch. Also use the shifter lock. Don't forget the Smith and Wessen security services. Hope this helps.

Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:47 pm

Thanks! Did you use the AFC valve? If not, which one?

Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:59 pm

:D It was a Dan-Marc

Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:13 pm

jeffavatech wrote: :D It was a Dan-Marc The 121? Or did you get the 121SS?

Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:25 pm

:wink: The 121. So far so good.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:39 pm

jeffavatech wrote: :wink: The 121. So far so good. Cool. Did they provide you with the hose barbs?

Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:27 am

:cry: No they didn't. You have to install your own. I finished off the starter disable today at work. Works good. Now I have to work on the positive camber in the front. Install seat belts in back for the grand kids. My own "honey do" list is growing every day......

Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:51 am

Ok, thanks!

btw: no joy from the manufacturer to get a discount or anything based on the poll thread. We're on our own!

Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:01 am

FWIW:

I went with this dealer;
http://www.buyafcvalves.com/Pricing.html

They don't list the 121SS or the 155, but they are down the road from the manufacturer and can get both within a day or so of order.

The 121SS is $51 compared to the 121 at $47.

Ask for Tim, he was very helpful. I explained our plight. He couldn't offer a discount unless they all shipped out together, so if someone is still interested in doing this for everyone here (less me, I ordered mine) go for it.