TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:49 pm

Ok dont flame me....I have searched and read alot of bits and pieces which are helpful, just want some specific info/advice on my bus.

1972, TypeIV, 1800cc.

in the garage at the moment and they reckon my old twin solex's are shagged. Having a look at weber's and have seen these two options:

Dual 40IDFs http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk288.htm

Dual 34ICT
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk412.htm

Or the Empi HPMX ones?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-47-7317

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-47-7347

all very confusing to me.....

Is everything i need in those kits?

There is a quite a difference in price and that is a consideration but i do want to get it right. I dont need a bus that blows people away at the lights, just something that works really well!

Any opinions and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I know little to nothing about carbs so replies should use small single Syllable words!

Tue Feb 09, 2010 5:47 pm

Might give this guy a call or hit him with an email. http://www.lowbugget.com/ Real world info & service, not pipe dreams.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:02 pm

Cheers. I saw the link and have looked at the site and will speak to him. Spoke to the bloke at CIP1 and they reckon the hpmx40's with 28mm venturis would work well. they are on special at the moment which would be a bonus as well! Anyone using these?

Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:10 pm

Jake Raby is a Type 4 guy and markets the HPMX's. Probably can set them up for you. Might cost more up front, but less in the long run.....
aircooledtechnology.com I believe.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:19 pm

Another alternative would be to get your current carbs rebushed. The bit that will most likely be shagged on the carbs is where the throttle shaft rotates in the carb body and over time creates a vacuum leak. That's what rebushing fixes. If there is no-one local there is at least one person who advertises on The Samba.

If you go down the new carb route, make sure you get a set for a TypeIV engine. One of your links was for a TypeI.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:55 pm

TomWesty wrote: Jake Raby is a Type 4 guy and markets the HPMX's. Probably can set them up for you. Might cost more up front, but less in the long run.....
aircooledtechnology.com I believe.

Give this thread a read:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=374578

I purchased the Raby carbs and am VERY happy with the purchase. At todays prices I think they might even be cheaper than C.I.P. and they come with better parts. I bought some for myself.

Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:02 pm

Anyone care to share their experience with Dual Webers ( say 44 IDFs )
and vacuum advance distributors?

Any pictures showing hose connections?

Any vacuum insufficiency issues with operating the dizzy from the
IDFs?

cheers..........................

Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:26 am

For what it's worth, I looked at fitting ICTs etc into my 2l type 4 and finally decided on getting my twin solex carbs refurbished and correctly jetted. Since I've done that I've had no problems with them. Performance and economy are good and there are excellent posts on here that go into detail for tuning.

The main reason for my decision was to stay as "stock" as possible so the Bentley manual continues to make sense.

I wouldn't get rid of them. Once these are setup properly they work fine. Refurb cost in the UK was £300 (bit of a nightmare because they didn't do it right first time and broke the idle cutoff). A bit expensive but everything in the UK is - but cheaper than buying new ones. If you opt for a refurb make sure that they place you pick know what they're doing.

Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:04 am

I am working on the updated Dual Carb tuning write-up.

You should know that correctly set up factory dual carbs have splendid driveability in all weather. They also maintain synchronization no matter the expansion/contraction cycles of the engine. Simple elegant linkages, excellent thermostatic air preheater, a place for your breather hose and fuel evaporative cannister hose . . . . . . .
anyways.
Colin

Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:02 am

I just installed a pair of 40s from ACE. These are early Spanish models that Art modified for my application. Currently they reside in my 72 2L.

From what I gathered, none of the kit Webers can be run "out of the box" they all at least need complete cleaning.

The real concern with the kits is the linkage. Most are flimsy in my opinion and I found the best market linkage kit to be the CB performance one. Even Jake recommended I use it on my CS.

It took me a month checking out the kits to make a decision.

RB

Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:00 am

This is a set of Weber 40IDF's just back from ACE, I have never been a fan of any of the hex or crossbar linkage so I have been setting up the Scat center pull. It is a lot easier to synchronize the carbs with this style of push/pull.

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Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:54 pm

Nice photo-- the linkage looks good.

However, my question is does anyone have a tried and true running example of dual Weber IDFs with vacuum hoses and a vacuum advance dizzy? i.e. fully installed in the Bus example.

Trying to be open minded and understand why everyone is so "anti-009" and anti-mech. advance and so "pro-vaccum"
advance ---but I'm only seeing this with hopelessly under-carbbed
"stock" single barrel Solex setups.

cheers.................. 8)

Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:57 pm

cbcarch wrote: anti-mech. advance and so "pro-vaccum"
You can't make generalizations. There is one "one best" for all combos.

Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:01 pm

I am currently running duel 44's, 36 vents, and a SVDA. I have the two carbs t'd together and it takes off a lot better than my 009 did.

Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:18 pm

Glenn,

Sorry--but I think there is a lot of generalization about this topic. Read thru all the threads.

But, I agree-let's be more specific:

1. Got a picture of a dual Weber IDF carbed Type 1 in a Bus with a vacuum advance setup? Just for a visual on how it works with hoses, T-fittings, etc.

2. Got a real world engine in a Bus with this setup and some data to compare it to one with an 009 or other mech. advance setup?

I'm just looking for real-world experience and parameters so I can make an informed decision before spending time and money and changing my ignition setup.

cheers............. 8)