TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:56 am

Hi everyone!

I'm not too good in mechanics, but I would like to learn to repair my beetle. Now I will have to change the original front axle beam to a narrowed one.

Has anyone a pictorial - tutorial how to do this at home?

Thank you very much!

Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:17 am

Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!

Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:19 am

drscope wrote: Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!
Don't forget the two top bolts under the gas tank.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:44 am

drscope wrote: Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!

Yes, that's what I would like to see in pictures! :wink:

I have many books, but it's only about engine repairing, not that type.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:40 pm

drscope wrote: Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!

Or pull arms out of the beam so you dont have to mess with the brakes/spindles. If your going narrowed all you would have to do is install your new beam, insert the stock leaves, knock out your trailing arm torsion covers with a long screwdriver and install the trailing arms letting the stock lengh torsions pass through the arms. Now you can mark the torsions to the correct length to cut, and mark your new dimples through the stock trailing arm dimple hole. Make sure your have all bushings in place as if you were final assembling your new beam so you get accurate cut/dimple marks. This way has worked for me. I have never taken off my brake lines to uninstall/install a beam.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:21 pm

Slamadubs method will work but I found that pulling the whole thing out is good for us first timers. This way allows you to get it up on a bench where you can get a better understanding of what you are doing without laying under the car. Its really an easy job. As stated before, disconnect brake lines, remove gas tank to gain access to the steering coupling, disconnect steering coupling, remove the two bolts directly above the beam (Located inside where your brake fluid res is.), support the beam, and remove the four large bolts on the front of the beam. Those four bolts can be a pain in the ass if its never been removed before. Invest in some penetrating lubricant!

Hope that helps.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:50 pm

I have been messing around with my front end (haven't removed it though) and it is surprisingly simple. If you don't have access to books I think you could get away with just undoing the bolts you think are in the way!

Be careful with brake lines and use the correct bolts and fasteners though. You can't go wrong in the garage but you certainly could go wrong if it falls apart driving down the road.

Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:43 pm

http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help

Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:30 am

63brew wrote: http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help

Thank's everybody!
That was I looking for!

Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:01 am

Here's a tip that might help you guys who have your beams out.

The beam can be EASILY adapted to most engine stands. So if you have one of those cheap roll around stands like harbor freight or some auto parts stores sell, bolt it up on the stand.

It makes it a lot easier to deal with.

Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:20 pm

Thats a damn good idea! I never thought about that.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:22 pm

63brew wrote: http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help

That helped me too. I got all of the bolts undone, but didn't know how I was going to get them back in. I guess I should have removed the gas tank. I will be doing that tomorrow.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:59 pm

Hey 63brew, Nice picture of the wedge you've got there. Been there and done that many a time! I guess location 562 is Newport. At first I thought it was my old distributor lic. plate #.

Don

Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:22 pm

drscope wrote: Here's a tip that might help you guys who have your beams out.

The beam can be EASILY adapted to most engine stands. So if you have one of those cheap roll around stands like harbor freight or some auto parts stores sell, bolt it up on the stand.

It makes it a lot easier to deal with.
Plus you can put a trash can under the beam when in the verticle position to spay cleaners or solvents to get all that nasty grease out. Worked for me.