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Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:49 pm

Hey all, some of you might remember that I posted about a potential 72 super purchase about a month or so ago, and after some talking and such, I went and met up with the owner at the car to take a look. Its by far not perfect, but the body is mostly solid, and it runs good and revs good, just doesn't idle right now, needs a good carb. cleaning. Anyway, he started it, revved it, and drove it slowly around the yard, as it only has a e brake right now, and after some discussing with the owner and my financial advisor (aka girlfriend), I got it for 1000.00. The worst part of the car is the rear pan half on the battery side, needs replacing, but the front halves are new and solid, and the rear driver side is solid, but might replace it anyway. Also, after he started it, we noticed a leak in the fuel pump gasket, and now that its been up on a flatbed, and back in my drive way there is a puddle of gas under the rear of the car, any ideas on if its just a gasket, or should I replace the whole pump? Any good sites for parts and lines for brake and fuel systems? It does need help in the interior department, but I might get some seats and other misc. parts from my buddy with a '74 soon to be subaru powered super, which threw a rod in the 1600DP. I will get some pics up soon, as I only have the one from when I first drove by it. Also he gave me 4 aluminum rims, with a sticker on the back saying something about being sema approved or something, anyway I cant find who makes em or what they are worth, and was thinking of selling them as I feel they are more dune buggy style, Ill add a pic from google on those, any ideas? Well sorry for the jumbled up post, hope you can understand what i meant haha. 8)

Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:27 pm

I remember that post. The owner was out of town, said engine was rebuilt but only driven up and down the street a long time ago, something like that. $1000 for a running, pretty much complete car in decent shape isnt that bad of a deal, especially if he really did rebuild the motor just recently.
Sorry but can't help you on the wheels. I'm sure you can get a couple hundred $$$ for them tho to the right buyer.

Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:38 pm

Quote: Sorry but can't help you on the wheels. I'm sure you can get a couple hundred $$$ for them tho to the right buyer
I was hoping to get a decent amount, but don't want to seem out of my rocker for asking too much if they aren't all that expensive new.
Also I thought for where I live, $1000.00 seemed okay, I searched for others but they were more expensive, and I really only had the 1000 for a car. Now the fun of replacing what it needs, and fixing it all up, hoping to get it running and driving good by august to bring it to a show. Also, the engine is in, and bolted up, but it has play with the transmission, like the engine and tranny can twist a little bit in there. The PO said something about a crossmember not having a bolt in it, but that it was in the glove box. Any ideas?

Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:48 pm

Sounds like he might be referring to one of the transmission fork bolts not being in place. The forks are the 2 tubes that stick out from the back of the pan towards the rear of the car. There should be a large bolt in the rear of each of them into a plate holding the rear of the trans up. All of the engine weight, and about half of the transaxle weight is on these mounting points so make sure they are in and tight before driving the car too much. If they are both there check the rubber mounts that are on the plate that those bolts go into. There should be one rubber mount on each side with 2 bolts securing the tops and bottoms of the mounts to the transaxle and the brace (total of 8 bolts). Missing some of those isnt a good thing either so its a good idea to replace any that are missing.

On those wheels, if they are some super rare, highly prized item, consider that new alloy wheels run anywhere from $100-$170ish each. So for $400 the average joe can run out and buy a brand spankin new set. In this economy I wouldnt expect to make a killing off them. You may consider listing them on craigslist under barter and list them for trade for some parts you may need. Sometimes you can find somebody who will trade you something that may be pretty valuable (to you if you have to go buy it) but isnt worth anything to them because they have 500 of them. I have gotten several hundred dollars worth of traded items for something that was really only worth like $50 due to that.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:07 am

Yeah, the PO stated he had them "custom" made, and cost $3500.00 to make them, but I have seen them on a few baja bugs, and the one pictured is a "american welding" rim or something like that. I'll have to see if there's a brand on the inside of the wheel, but when I first looked, it just had a "maximum weight" thing on it, and a sticker that says something about being "sema" approved.I am going to try to trade them to someone if I can for some needed parts, My buddy was going to take them for a trade for some tins and seats, but they aren't his type either. :roll: .As for the tranny, I will definitely look for some missing bolts when the gas that leaked out dries up, and there is sun light.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:04 am

That wheel might be an Ansen. Search the gallery for "ansen" and see if you can find a match.

Max

Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:30 pm

Not too sure on the ansen, they look alot alike, but the wheels I have don't have anything on them proving it. There is a mark on the inside saying IMCO but doing a search brought nothing up.
On a side note, I was looking at the bug today trying to figure out all that I needed to do, and noticed the fuel line from the tank to the pump running down to the left side, and sitting on the header. Now I am sure thats not stock, but I can't seem to find a good diagram for the fuel system and how it runs from the tank to the engine bay. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:50 pm

Decent deal, you need to get a few good repair manuals like the Orange cover Bentley and/or Haynes to start with, lots of pics and diagrams in each that show you how things are supposed to be, look in the classified for them. Pep Boys usually stocks the haynes 54-79 beetle book. Google superbeetle and look for the just superbeetles/1302 site, lots of resources including VWoA parts manuals with exploded diagrams of everything on the car. Then as you look at the car, start writing down a master list of things to do, I grouped mine into categories like exterior, engine, interior, electrical, etc, pretty soon it will be over 2 pages! Then start planning priorities and marking which things you can do and what you need to get done at a shop...good luck with it....

Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:55 am

Thanks for the info on the SB site, I'll have to check it out. As for making a list, I'm already starting one for brake and fuel system components. Basically I want to fix it enough to pass inspection if there is one, so my landlord won't kill me for having an unregistered car in the driveway, then going over things I missed ( heater boxes, tubes, exhaust that lets me have heat, full floor pans instead of halves, etc.) .

Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:18 am

Broke96 wrote: ... On a side note, I was looking at the bug today trying to figure out all that I needed to do, and noticed the fuel line from the tank to the pump running down to the left side, and sitting on the header. Now I am sure thats not stock, but I can't seem to find a good diagram for the fuel system and how it runs from the tank to the engine bay. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great.

Carburated '72 SB should have a single 5mm steel fuel line running from just below the front fuel tank, into the center tunnel, all the way to the rear left "frame horn" (another name for the two tapered support arms that the transmission mounts to) where it should pop up near where the rear axle crosses the frame horn.
At each end, short lengths of rubber hose connect this line to the tank (front) and the steel fuel line that passes thru the front engine tin into the engine compartment (rear).

Even if you find this fuel line, there may be a good reason the PO installed an external fuel line. If the old line had a leak, you don't want to use it.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 10:37 am

He did say he replaced fuel and brake lines, I just didn't know where the rubber line met up with the steel line, right now it rests on the header not going through the firewall, is there a hole in the firewall for it? Right now it seems lile the steel line ends at the driver side wheel well, then the rubber line connects.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:36 am

Alright, well I was looking at it the other day and decided to get some before pics of everything, sorry about the quality, there from my phone, someone decided they wanted my GPS and camera more than I did, and havem't replaced it yet. On some of the pictures, I will have some questions as well.

Here it is in my driveway, don't mind the smoke (filthy habit, I know.).

The most rust on the body, and a bit of old body filler.

The inside of that quarter, it was in a wreck in its life, and repaired somewhat.

The back seat area, I am going to try and clean up the vinyl carpet, and sew new lining on the edges.

The engine as it sits now, thinking about taking it out this weekend and making sure all is well with it, and clean up the engine bay a bit.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:44 am

The trunk with some extra parts, and a honda washer fluid res. with pump.

Want to know if that switch is factory, if so whats it for?

Cleanest part on the interior.

Is that terminal on the carb for the electric choke? Does the '72 come with that from the factory, or is it just there?

Also this one here by the dist., oil pressure sensor?

Thinking about replacing the steering wheel, as this one is cracked a bit.

You can kind of see 1. The cut made for the body to clear the exhaust, and 2. The fuel line resting on the header.

Under the engine, Anyone know if the SCAT kit comes with all the tin needed, I am missing quite a bit.

Missing a bolt on the intake manifold, one reason why I want to take the engine out and check for more things wrong, and re route the fuel line.
Comments, suggestions, tips, anything is appreciated.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:02 am

Switch by the fuse is for the rear defroster. Yes on the oil pressure sensor minus the wire. In order for the choke to work it needs a wire connected to the coil, and they were stock on carbureated cars.

I would go to a junk yard or local swap meet and pick up all new tin. You are missing almost all the engine tin, and even the fan shroud is cracked. I am doubtful about the engine being rebuilt it is caked in mud in parts, and the cylinders appear to maybe be mis-matched? I would start with a good cleaning on the engine and go from there.

Oh and yes the fuel resting on the j-pipe is kinda scary, and a huge fire hazard, needs to be fixed before you drive it. Also if those are j-pipes then you dont have heat exchangers which means no heating for the inside of the car, and it looks cold where you live, might want to pick up some used german ones, or some new OEM replacements, dont buy the "lightened" versions, they wont produce enough heat.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:19 am

I will search for any dis-connected wires when the engine is out, and clean things up. The engine does run good the way it is, but I am with you on it doesn't seem to be rebuilt.
As far as the tin goes, I was looking on aircooled.net, and saw the scat kit for 140.00, does that have all I will need? My buddy has a blown engine he just pulled out of his '74 SB, getting it ready for a transplant, I am going to see it I can get some parts he wont be using, he already said I could get the tin off him, but am unsure if his set is complete as well.
I dont know if the cylinders are mismatched, I will check. Will it make a difference as long as they are the same bore?
Yes it does get cold here, were almost done with winter though, and since I wont absolutely need heat right away, I want to get it driving and stopping and cleaned up, then gather all the parts I need to completely do the heating system, full floor pans, heat channels, etc., and go through what I missed this time around.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:31 am

It your not gonna find some stock tin, then yes it looks as the scat tin kit has all the pieces, I would avoid the chrome, and get the "paintable" style, and paint the pieces and semi-gloss black or your prefered color.

If they cylinders are indeed the same bore I would think they would work.

Have fun with the new project.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:18 pm

Thanks for letting me know. I am going to try to get all the stock tin from my buddies '74, but like I said it may be missing some things aswell. If I do go with the scat kit it will be painted black. I am hoping that the weather hold up so I can get some work done this weekend. 8) Please be ready for more questions once I get started, as I wont have a manual or the Muir book until I can order them next weekend.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:20 pm

Nice project. Good luck finding a late-model steering wheel that isn't cracked..they're not all that easy to come by.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:37 pm

Thanks, Just gotta keep coming on the samba to get motivated, and I'll be happy if I can get my car to look half as good as most of them on here.
I will look around for a wheel, Maybe I can fill in the cracks with epoxy, sand and paint? Or find a wheel that will work for now.

Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:05 pm

Well havent been able to do anything yet to the bug, the weathers been crappy lately, but I wanted to know, Could I use rubberized undercoating on the bottom of the pan and chassis, as well as the inner fenders, and POR15 or similar on the inside? I dont want to take the body off right now and figured that I could spray on some undercoating with the car on jackstands? Any input on coating the underside with the body still on?