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Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:59 pm

Mated the case and started tightening the bolts when the one in the picture (pointing to it with the long bolt) just spins and spins and spins and pulls out. Any tricks or do I really have to open her back up and helicoil?

Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:28 pm

Open her up and helicoil. It's not that bad at this stage.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:09 am

It is so hard to take a step back when your so excited to go forward!

Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:01 am

And do not over tighten that bolt. 14 ft lbs.
If you follow the factory recommended sequence, that and its mate should be tightened first.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:27 am

Expect to assemble and break down an engine 2-3 times before you are done. Trial-fitting parts and clearancing and such are a routine part of a rebuild. Don't be discouraged, and DO budget time for it.

Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:26 pm

KTPhil wrote: Expect to assembly and break down an engine 2-3 times before you are done. Trial-fitting parts and clearancing and such are a routine part of a rebuild. Don't be discouraged, and DO budget time for it.

I'm sure this is a realistic statement and so I'm forewarned and will enjoy the ride. :)

Russ, this bolt.... is this the one that Muir says to put the paper gasket under?

Also my local CarQuest suggested a case saver instead of helicoil, so I'm assuming they are different but with the same intended purpose.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:39 am

Case saver in and ready to start over.
Is there a way I can drop in the distributor drive shaft BEFORE I mate the case and be assured that it is at TDC? Or must I wait like the book says till I put the heads on and watch the # 1 valves?

If I'm running a 009 distributor then I really don't have to put the shaft in at a 60 degree angle do I? Trying to think this through. Maybe it's better to put it in at a 60 degree angle in case I ever decide to switch distributors.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:56 am

Put the dist. gear and the dist. in before you set the crank in place.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:59 pm

Fri Mar 05, 2010 6:56 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Put the dist. gear and the dist. in before you set the crank in place.

And if you do not, going to be real fun trying to find T.D.C., let alone put the gear in. Trust me, B.T.D.T..

Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:12 am

Thanks everybody, JSMskater, it was fun to watch your videos.

I was disappointed last night to realize the ring compressor I borrowed will not work for my pistons :( I'll go out this morning and get the right one. However I have a new question I desperately need answered.
When I pulled the cylinders from the case there were NO paper gaskets between the case and cylinder but metal shims that fit onto the cylinder..they slid on it. Thinking to my self that they just installed them on the wrong end I ordered new ones, well the new ones are smaller and sit on the top of the cylinder which makes sense if it is going on the cylinder end that meets the head.

What the heck? Should I use the paper gaskets from cylinder to case and the new shims from cylinder to head or put the old shims back on, cylinder to case and nothing on the cylinder to head, the way it originally was? Please help as I'm desperate to get going today. Thanks

Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:09 am

NEVER use the paper gaskets. Ok well maybe there is an application, but not yours.
The metal shims have to do with deckheight. Figure that out, and you may need a different thickness.
Get out of that Muir book!!!
Its a good read but not helpful when rebuilding.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:15 am

The Muir book says opposite, paper gaskets, cylinder to case and metal shims, cylinder to heads. Doesn't matter anyway as I just realized the new shims don't fit anyway so I'm gonna use the old ones and put them back on the way they were when I took them off.

AS for the Muir book there is NO WAY I could do the rebuild with out his easy explanation of things. I use both the Bentley and the Muir but the Bentley is no where near as descriptive and does not tell the rebuild as a story.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:23 am

I know what the muir book says, thats why I said not to use it. :wink:
Getting the correct size as well as thickness of shim is important.
Deck height needs to be set properly. If not, you can expect to do a top end rebuild within 10,000 miles.
If you need the simple explinations of the Muir book, fine use it and this book:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=26
in conjunction with eachother.

But to clearify, use the metal shim between cylinder and case to set deck, no shim between cylinder and head(unless its a copper one, and those are debatable).

Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:55 am

pow_rider17 wrote:

But to clearify, use the metal shim between cylinder and case to set deck, no shim between cylinder and head(unless its a copper one, and those are debatable).

Or in the heads, if they have been flycut so deep, that the cylinders do not seat.
I have several heads here, that I have found that way.
Yes, if the shims go under the cylinder normally, to set the compression ratio/deck height.
The paper gaskets were used up until about 1972, IIRC. Now days, I use a very thin film of silicone to seal the cylinders to the case joint. and if you are using the shim, you should use it on both sides of the shim.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:31 pm

vwcrazybus wrote: Thanks everybody, JSMskater, it was fun to watch your videos.

I was disappointed last night to realize the ring compressor I borrowed will not work for my pistons :( I'll go out this morning and get the right one. However I have a new question I desperately need answered.
When I pulled the cylinders from the case there were NO paper gaskets between the case and cylinder but metal shims that fit onto the cylinder..they slid on it. Thinking to my self that they just installed them on the wrong end I ordered new ones, well the new ones are smaller and sit on the top of the cylinder which makes sense if it is going on the cylinder end that meets the head.

What the heck? Should I use the paper gaskets from cylinder to case and the new shims from cylinder to head or put the old shims back on, cylinder to case and nothing on the cylinder to head, the way it originally was? Please help as I'm desperate to get going today. Thanks

For future reference, on air cooled engines, you can get away with no ring compressor. Yes, does make life easier, but in a pinch, it works. At the base of the piston, there is a slight chamfer, which helps install the rings. Just do one ring at a time, orienting into the correct position.

I have seen paper, and used it, as it was what I had available. I used one on each side of the barrel shim, with slight touch of oil to hold them in place.

Russ Wolfe wrote: pow_rider17 wrote:

But to clearify, use the metal shim between cylinder and case to set deck, no shim between cylinder and head(unless its a copper one, and those are debatable).

Or in the heads, if they have been flycut so deep, that the cylinders do not seat.
I have several heads here, that I have found that way.
Yes, if the shims go under the cylinder normally, to set the compression ratio/deck height.
The paper gaskets were used up until about 1972, IIRC. Now days, I use a very thin film of silicone to seal the cylinders to the case joint. and if you are using the shim, you should use it on both sides of the shim.

On head shims, a friend mechanic, rebuilder, and machinist, said over time, the barrel smashes the shim, and the head looses compression. So, in short, if it can be avoided, avoid use, and go with barrel shims.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:55 pm

The last time I assembled my 1776, I used just a little case sealant at the cylinder bases. No leaks.

I am currently reassembling the same engine and, since it worked well last time, I am doing it the same way this time.

Max

Sun Mar 07, 2010 2:43 pm

2.0L bus engine use an aluminum "head gasket" between the cylinder and the head. But they do fail. I have one here right now that that happened to. It erroded the head, and now I have to have the head repaired. My fly cutter does not work on the 2.0L heads.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:19 pm

I use two large worm clamps put together as my ring compresor. I haven't broken one yet.

Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:53 pm

I have all the factory ring compressors from 75mm up to 92mm.
And what do I have on the engine stand right now?? 94mm. 2.0L bus engine.
Looks like I dig out my old trusty Snap-On band compressor.
They make one that will open up after the cyl. slides down.

I do not like doing it by putting the pistons partly into the cylinder and them putting them in. This makes the cylinders in the way for doing the other piston on that side of the engine and making sure you have every wrist pin clip in place, etc.