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Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:16 pm

what should the oil temp be for a type one eng in a 68 bus

Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:18 pm

It depends on the oil, the outside temp and how hard you're pushing it.

0-180 is cold
180-210 is normal
210-230 is warm
230-240 is hot
240+ is turn the engine off.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:30 pm

thanks for the reply
i use 20w50 and live in fla.
eng has only a few thousand on it
it seems not to be running hot but i am installing a temp gage and wanted to know what temps to look for

Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:35 pm

You might want to try a thinner oil.

Thick oil takes more work to push through the engine and that creates more heat. You should run the thinnest oil you can... i run 10W-30 in my new engine (6500 miles).

Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:12 pm

where do you live glenn i'm in fla and it gets pretty hot
norm

Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:15 pm

But the VW thinks that thick oil is cold oil.

Try some Brad Penn 10-30 racing oil and report back.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:35 pm

nw wrote: i am installing a temp gage and wanted to know what temps to look for

Looks like we're going to have to end up going thru this exercise all over again :shock: .
Quote: Don't even think about comparing your oil temp with anyone else. Unless they have the very same exact gauge, sender, and sender location, and sender installation. The numbers could (probably) be absolutely meaningless.

Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:15 pm

Next topic-
nw wrote: i use 20w50 and live in fla.
10W30 would be good in cold mornings. Once you are through with 30 and 40F cold mornings the 20W50 is great. And probably the good choice during your hotter months.
A couple things to keep in mind. When oil gets hot enough that it needs cooling it will go through the cooler. People in COLD locations are in need of an oil like 10W-30 (or lighter) and probably 10W-30 year around. FL isn't like the North, the Northeast or other similar climate locations like that.
Oil topics get moved to the Engine/Performance forum. And over there the majority of opinions are based on bugs or performance engines. Totally different situation than heavy Bays. An engine doesn't strain to push a light bug unless it's doing it's high performance thing. And then it's only for a real short period of time. With a Bay it is a sustained heavy load on the engine. Apples and oranges.
Arguments forthcoming?

Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:38 pm

Prepare for lock in 3...2...1...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755

:lol:

Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:13 pm

:lol:
Maybe Glenn is busy watching the Olympics. :lol:
But it would be so cool for us if he would get a Bay and live in the same world we do. The slow comfortable one.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:31 am

Desertbusman wrote: :lol:
Maybe Glenn is busy watching the Olympics. :lol:
But it would be so cool for us if he would get a Bay and live in the same world we do. The slow comfortable one.
Get a Bay... never. I've driven on back from CTS and I just don't get it.

They a re slow, but not comfortable to drive.

When I want to go slow and look cool, i'll drive my 57 ragtop.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:49 am

Gee wiz Glenn, my Bus with your 019 in it may change your mind :D

Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:57 am

Glenn wrote: Get a Bay... never.

we don't tolerate h@ters around here, bub.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:10 am

germansupplyscott wrote: Glenn wrote: Get a Bay... never.

we don't tolerate h@ters around here, bub.
I'm not a H@TER... i'm just not a L@VER.

They're great to go camping in, but i'm a old Boy Scout and to me camping is hiking in a few miles and sleeping in a tent. For me, I like "sports car handling" and a Bay will not do that without extensive modifications. It's a "Box on wheels". Driving back from CTS last year was an experience. Constantly having to work the steering wheel, vague shifting and having to brace for on coming trucks on 2 lane roads is more work that I like.

Not that there's anything wrong with it, it's not my thing.

What I do like is the extra torque of the Type 4 engine, it can really pull the bus up the hills compared to a stock Type 1.

And i'm sure none of this is news to any of you.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

But back to the topic... or is this over?

Yes, "low light Bays" with Type 1 engines have different needs than a Beetle, but they're not that different. Oil is oil and it either lubricates and protects or it doesn't. It doesn't matter if its in the back of a Bus or a Beetle.

Yes.. a Bay will run a bit hotter, so make sure you have all the factory tin, thermostat and flaps, the valves adjusted, the carb not too lean and the timing not too advanced.

Full flowing the case, adding a secondary oil cooler and a deep sump is not a bad idea.

Let's not get into a oil debate...save that for the "oil" topic in the engine forum.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:17 am

Glenn wrote: etc etc etc

i thought you'd just tell me to piss off :-)

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:19 am

germansupplyscott wrote: Glenn wrote: etc etc etc

i thought you'd just tell me to piss off :-)
Nah... I figured the USA Hockey team beating Team Canada was enough for a Canadian to bear this week.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:48 am

nw wrote: what should the oil temp be for a type one eng in a 68 bus

After you get your oil temp gauge just run it and see what it does. If you have or can borrow one of those laser thermometer gizmos you can get a pretty good idea if your gauge is accurate by shooting the laser at the sump plate. For the most part the temperature of the bottom of the case is equal to the temperature of the oil when you aren't moving and no air is flowing over the case.

Glenn's advice is spot on RE "normal" temps I think. For oil weight I'd follow the advice from the VW owner's manual unless you are monitoring your oil pressure as well and have good reason to change weights up or down. There are two schools of though when it comes to gauges such as oil temp and pressure... those like me that go overboard and monitor every aspect of engine health (and get all paranoid about it) and those that just drive the bus and relax and don't worry about it. I can't tell you which is better in the long run, really.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:10 am

Absolutely you need to calibrate the gauge... mine was reading 40 degrees too high. I used a Pyrex calibrated deep fry thermometer down the dipstick and used a Raytek infrared to verify.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:54 pm

is there a way to actually calibrate the (VDO) gauge?
or do you just make a mental note of the temp difference.
:oops: