TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:29 pm

Ok, I have the old rear wheel bearings out, and can't seem to get the new ones in, the outers seem too tight??? How do you start them to set them in? I've read the Bentley, don't have a press.... Muir doesn't seem to make sense.
I've checked the part numbers, and I have the right ones.... WTF??

ANY help would be very very appreciated!!! Please..
Thanks,
Dave

Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:33 pm

What year bus and where were the bearings made?

I pull most of them in with a couple of big sockets and a foot of 1/2"+ redi-rod (allthread).

Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:40 pm

Do you have anything you can measure the hub and new bearing with? (or even the old bearing and new bearing) maybe some cheap calipers just to get an idea of the interferance you're dealing with. Don't want to get it halfway in and get it stuck..

On the other hand, you don't wan't it sloppy in there either. This was my problem where thebearing had spun in the housing and worn it oversize.

Ant

Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:52 pm

Damn.... 1977 westy, the outer are made in Malaysia, the inners Brazil. The old ones were a mother to get out.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:49 pm

heat the hub and freeze the bearing race. It will probably drop right in.
I would use a good quality brand name bearing (fag,skf,ntn,timken)unless you want to do it again in a year.

A farmers trick to getting the inner race out if you have a mig, run a bead around the race and it will shrink it enough to drop right out.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:56 pm

The issues isn't just getting it in, most Asian and even some Danish bearings compress too much once they are in and bind against the inner race, poor dimension standards and thin outer races. If it feels tight and draggy it'll last maybe 10 miles.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:10 pm

I use the old outer race to get the new one in. Flip it upside down on top of the new one, place a block of wood on it and drive it in with a BFH. You gotta make sure you get it to go in straight so don't go nuts wailing on it.. Check progress and alignment often.. Then I seat it the last little bit with a drift and hammer very carefully.. Careful not to drive the old one in too far or its a biatch to get out.. You can get it about halfway or more using the old one then change over to get it fully seated.. Or you could just take it to someone with a press but what fun would that be ;)..

Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:59 pm

Upside down??? My bearings are the same on both sides....

Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:05 pm

Some OG bearings have a flange on the outer lip.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:33 pm

Guess I should to try and get some original style bearings...the outers are KMM?? The inners are SKF.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:42 pm

Quote: The issues isn't just getting it in, most Asian and even some Danish bearings compress too much once they are in and bind against the inner race, poor dimension standards and thin outer races. If it feels tight and draggy it'll last maybe 10 miles.

We bought some FAG that were made in Korea from Bus Depot and they were fine. We also got some Brazilian ones for the outers from them and they felt awful. The center just was a pain to install. One felt so bad I ordered another thinking I'd ruined it or something. After we got done we came across some NOS German outer ones so the hub came apart again. They went in nicely and fit perfectly like I remember from when I did my 1971 years ago. The center fit really smoothly which means the outer ring of the bearing installed without distortion. The Brazilian ones are up in a box now. I see where Bus Depot is now selling FAG or SKF outers and not showing that Brazilian one anymore. Go with FAG, SKF, Timikien etc. Stay away from the off brands. Call Bus Depot to see what brands they have in stock and go with the best. You won't regret it.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:56 pm

Fag and Timken, yes. but SKF is not any longer a quality Euro bearing. they just put their label on a crappy indonesian bearing. Besides, SKF is evil. They are the ones who couldnt compete with FAG in the 90s, so they sued them in federal court, accusing them of "dumping" bearings on the US market- the result being that a hefty duty was placed on FAG bus and bug bearings. once SKF won that battle, they realized they didnt have to sell quality to compete, and thats the last we have seen of good bearings.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 2:09 am

The bearings I bought from my (reputable) VW parts dealer were branded 'Governer - Germany' and mic'd up the same as the OG FAG's

In 3 years now with no problems

Ant

Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:13 am

Damn, what a waste of money, I'll be hitting up the bus depot up today..

Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:21 am

I have to ask? What was wrong with your old bearings? If they don't show pitting or other signs of wear I would just reuse them. When you compare the size of the rear bearing to the tiny ones on the front, it should be obvious that they will run a very long time. Of course if they were damage in removal... :cry:

Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:03 am

Quote: Fag and Timken, yes. but SKF is not any longer a quality Euro bearing. they just put their label on a crappy indonesian bearing.

All the big bearing manufacturers have manufacturing world wide to keep up with demand. That doesn't mean they are sacrificing quality standards.
I have been in the bearing business 16 years and SKF has always been a top manufacturer when quality is a concern along with Timken, FAG, NTN.
There have been problems with grey market bearings showing up from overseas and being dumped into the market at a fraction of the cost, but that's a whole new topic.

Surprisingly enough over 95% of bearings outlive the product they are installed in. Many that fail are installer error, the BFH method is not a good way to install bearings, but carry on it keeps me employed :D

Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:32 am

fireman9027 can you list the # of the box that the bearings came?
thx

Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:52 am

fireman9027 wrote: the outers are KMM??

beware of ANYTHING made by this company. i have yet to see one single part from KMM be anything but garbage. wheel cylinders that leak out of the box because the hole for the brake line is too deep, ignition cylinders that fail in a year, engine mounts that are junk. etc. KMM is an absolute scourge. i doubt they make any of the stuff they sell, they are a distribution company that sources the cheapest parts available and passes them on to the unsuspecting public who don't know any better. they have cost me lots of wasted hours.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:55 pm

The only other brands I can find are SKF, and Timken, and Beck Arnley which is better???

Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:18 pm

SKF and Timken. Beck Arnley repackages. If you are lucky enough to have a Beck Arnley store near you, look inside the package to see what brand it is.

Re Scott's statement. KMM is the Brazilian brand we got that wasn't up to par IMHO.