TheSamba.com :: View topic - installing distributor drive gear... incorrectly?

Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:33 pm

Let's say, hypothetically, that you installed the distributer drive gear with the the engine at #4 instead of #1.

What would the result be?

Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:35 pm

You'd have to turn the distributor body so the rotor points to #1 when it's at TDC on #!. The problem is the vacuum canister can stop you from turning it enough to line it up.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:40 pm

Only thing is that the rotor would be point in a different direction. But if you rotate the distributor to the new position it makes no difference at all unless the vacuum pod (if you have vacuum advance) would be in a different location and might be akward. The other thing is the distributor will be in a non-standard position which might confuse some people. But there is no difference in functioning.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:13 pm

Crisis averted. The hypothetical subject of the question was smart enough to lube the drive gear above before putting it in, and got it back out pretty easily with a screwdriver.

Thanks.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:14 pm

That's the best... good job.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:05 pm

dirigible wrote: Crisis averted. The hypothetical subject of the question was smart enough to lube the drive gear above before putting it in, and got it back out pretty easily with a screwdriver.

Thanks.

For future reference the correct size wooden dowel poked into the hole in the upper end of the drive makes a good remover, as does a pair of duck billed snap ring pliers. What you don't want to do is raise the drive any further than necessary for it to be turned or the thrust washers may fall into the case.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:25 pm

Years ago I knew a guy named Burt who came from the hills in North Carolina. Burt worked on V8 cars a lot but he never had any books to go by. He would just put in the distributor any old way and then switch the plug wires around to get the motor to run. I remember he used to set points with a matchbook cover. :-k :bay_red:

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:32 pm

If you mess everything sigle thing with the drive gear position you can always straithen it up by changing cable position on the cap and rotating the distributor more or less, remmember that the valve opening cycle is what rules ignition timming. the only thing that you can really mess up timming speaking is not sinc. dot-to-dot the cam and the crank while building... oh yeah!

whilthings method works for me, while you pull the drive gear out, gently twist the crank pulley sideways, till you feel it pop out loose, don´t worry about the washers, you can get those with a stick magnet, its a plus to get to see the actuall seat the gear has against the bronze gear in the crank, plus you get to see that one too. when putting back in use a long stick to guide the washers in or coat the drive gears base with some grease and drop it in.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:36 pm

El_Güero wrote: don´t worry about the washers, you can get those with a stick magnet,
Unless you have to split the case to get the magnet down to where the washers fell. :roll:

Once you get the drive gear in the normal correct way don't rotate the engine backwards as the gear is apt to raise up and jump teeth. Rotating the engine CW doesn't cause that concern.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:42 pm

Quote: Unless you have to split the case to get the magnet down to where the washer fell.

No guts no glory...for some strange reason never has happened to me, they always fall right where they seat, or maybe they dont eaven lift when i lift the drive gear, who knows...

if its the case you have to pull the drive gear (unknown engine) its better to know you have two washers than finding out the case has been chewed cus "Burt" built it... :wink: (P.S. Sorry Burt i don´t know you)

Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:00 pm

Funny thing about Burt. He had no formal education or training but he was a great mechanic and tuner. He would massage an engine until he got it to "sound right." He learned from the moonshiners up in the hills, guys like the ones who started NASCAR. 8) :bay_red:

Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:11 pm

Burt had a cousin who he tried to teach these things to, but the cousin was slow at learning. He thought he was cleverer than anyone else 'till he got his head caught in an old Chevy radiator grill. "Damnit," Burt used to shout, " Wampe stop starring at yourself in the bumper chrome and flexing and picking your teeth and all, get over here and help me!"

Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:32 pm

SGKent wrote: Burt had a cousin who he tried to teach these things to, but the cousin was slow at learning. He thought he was cleverer than anyone else 'till he got his head caught in an old Chevy radiator grill. "Damnit," Burt used to shout, " Wampe stop starring at yourself in the bumper chrome and flexing and picking your teeth and all, get over here and help me!"

Steves Racing and Blueprinting. Don't you like, build Formula 1 engines or something like that? Or is it Top Fuel dragster engines? I seem to have forgotten. Oh, SCCA. Isn't that a series where the run old MGs or something like that? Those old English cars with Lucas electrics? Do you know why English people drink warm beer? They have Lucas refrigerators. :lol: :lol: :lol: :bay_red:

Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:45 pm

Old school Burt's were super cool dudes. You won't find them standing around with their finger up their a$$. It's really a shame that new technology leaves Burt behind and just replaces him with tow truck rides to some dealership with palm trees in the waiting lounge and $120 an hour unnecessary overhead costs.

Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:15 pm

Desertbusman wrote: Old school Burt's were super cool dudes. You won't find them standing around with their finger up their a$$. It's really a shame that new technology leaves Burt behind and just replaces him with tow truck rides to some dealership with palm trees in the waiting lounge and $120 an hour unnecessary overhead costs.

I think the reason people like the VW airhead engine is that the average guy with a few mechanical skills and a Craftsman tool set can do maintenance and repairs which can't be said for any of the new cars being built today. We have emission testing where I live for anything less than 25 yrs. old so it's risky to do any modifications to a newer vehicle. I have a '71 bus and I can do anything I want to the engine and not worry about failing an emissions test. Old VWs are fun to tinker with. There are still a lot of them around and parts are cheap. Funny you should mention trucks. The last I heard, Burt owned a trucking company in Florida and was doing quite well. I'll bet he knows how to fix diesel engines too...... Good one!.... Palm trees in the waiting area. :lol: :bay_red:

Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:24 pm

wampe wrote:
Do you mean "new technology" like air cooled VW engines?

No, I meant new cars. Ones which throttle and brake failures are caused by software glitches.