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Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:26 pm

Hi, there are a a few bits missing from my 1972 Westfalia heating piepwork. Can any one help with the following.
1. The 90mm pipe that runs under the bus should link up to a section towards the front of the vehicle that houses a control flap. There is a gap of about 60mm between them. What is used to join these two sections together?
2. There is a 55mm take off from the same flap control section that appears to have had pipework coming from it and going through a hole in the cross member towards the front of the bus. Where is that pipe supposed to go?
I've put a sketch together to try and explain the location of the bits in question;
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr262/kghiaboy/camperheaterdrawing-1.jpg

Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:34 pm

For the 90mm there should be a continuous steel tube running from the rear crossmember to the front, if somethings missing it either rusted away or was cut out for some kind of aftermarket booster fan.
The 55mm flex hose goes to the bottom of the walkthrough section just ahead of the front crossmember.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Thanks busdaddy, thats the 55mm pipe sorted, Still unsure on the 90mm pipe. The gap is only 60mm, and the ends have surface rust but are not corroded through. They look like machine cut ends. My only dilemma I guess, is how to bridge the gap. Maybe a bit of light tin wrapped around and hose clips to secure?. Should the whole 90mm section be insulated?
Here's a photo of the "gap"
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr262/kghiaboy/SDC12086.jpg

Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:14 pm

Just make a new pipe the correct length. Find some 4"-5" split seam stove pipe and cut it down to the correct length, and then trim the long edges so you get about an inch (25mm) of overlap. Stainless steel pipe is nice as it won't rust out with time, but is harder to cut with snips than galvanized. Hold it in place with several band clamps and then add sheet metal screws at the lap. Wrap the whole thing in self adhesive high density closed cell foam insulation. Add some form of protective outer coat if you like, I split some thin wall PVC pipe to cover mine, looks nice and should last for decades.

Note: Later buses came with corrugated double wall tubes instead of the metal center pipes, the ends typically rotted off of these over time.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:16 pm

you could also hit the plumbing section of the hardware store for a coupler of some kind. most rubbers can handle that amount of heat.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:31 pm

Hmmm....., that looks more like a 73+ style valve but I've never seen a steel tube with that valve, your bus must be a late, late, late 72 or the third# in the VIN is a 3.

As Wildtings mentioned later systems used corrugated paper/plastic tube, maybe your's is a mix of styles. The silicone coupler sleeve for the BA-6 heater looks like it would almost connect that, try Rustbus's suggestion about the plumbing store for a rubber sleeve. I've connected short gaps like that in the past with a few wraps of upholstery vinyl and band clamps, something to consider.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:10 pm

measure the diameter of the pipes and then visit your local rubber supply. They usually have high temp ducting made of silicone etc. you might even find a piece of aluminum dryer duct that is close enough to work.. Or you could get some thin stainless sheet to form a piece that goes around and pop rivet it in place, use high temp RTV to seal it and it will outlast the bus.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 4:53 am

Thanks for the suggestions and info guys.
I thought there may be a standard part that I could order.
I'll have a look in the hardware stores first for a flexible coupler, failing that I'll fab something up. Back with more questions soon!