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Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:11 am

So. I have a 1970 bus, who currently is having problems with his transmission. i dont know what that problem is exactly, but i know its on its way out. luckily (or unluckily?) it is winter, and winters in new york are cold, so he's been retired for the season.

its now march, and i've decided that my best course of action is to just invest in a new transmission and new engine. according to the paperwork from the PO, the engine was replaced 10 years ago, but the odometer was broken, so i am unsure of how many miles are on it.

right now i have a 1600cc, and i would like to upgrade. I have a dormobile with the westie interior, so i feel a need a beefier engine to handle the weight. i would also like to get a freeway flier transmission to help with my mpg and to make the (many!) highway miles i drive a bit quicker.

i've been looking around online for engine and transmissions, but i figured asking for any advice would help in the choosing process immensely.

What are your preferred engine/transmission companies? any of them install what the build? are there any reputable ones in the north east? i was thinking driving there for the core exchange/pick up to save on shipping costs.

thanks :)

Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:18 am

I would do a quick compression test on the engine. You never know it might be tip top. 10 years of summer driving may not be that much.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:42 am

I agree with 1975 Kombi here. Make a good assessment of what you have before assuming a huge upgrade is in order. If the compression test is a bit off, follow up with a leakdown test (search it here in the forum). This will help you understand what the poor compression test numbers mean.

I would be leery of a freeway flyer transmission. Your engine is air-cooled. Asking it to work harder at lower RPMs is also asking to work harder with less cooling.

As far as engine rebuilders in the Northeast, Suburban Engine in Boston is what is left of Boston Engine after Boston Bob passed away. You might try looking there.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:01 am

You could always get a 1776 or something from Chico and have a local "Tony" install it. Tell them it is for a bus though.

http://www.steelbugin.com/

Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:14 am

1975 Kombi wrote: I would do a quick compression test on the engine. You never know it might be tip top. 10 years of summer driving may not be that much.

i'll have only had him a year next month. the PO lived in new mexico and used it as a daily driver. i dont know if the heat will have done anything to it performance wise.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:16 am

chellafoundwaldo wrote: 1975 Kombi wrote: I would do a quick compression test on the engine. You never know it might be tip top. 10 years of summer driving may not be that much.

i'll have only had him a year next month. the PO lived in new mexico and used it as a daily driver. i dont know if the heat will have done anything to it performance wise.

That's what a compression test will tell you, set the valves, charge the battery and remember to crank with wide open throttle when testing.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:36 am

Don't be so hastey. Take a couple pics of the engine compartment for us. What makes you think the transmission is bad? What exactly is it doing? It could be something simple like needing a fluid change with some new stuff that tolerates cold NY climates better. In addition, it's possible that some cooling parts are not present in the engine, being that it came from NM. But that may not be the case, that state has a wide variety of temperature and weather conditions. I think it may boil down to what the PO has done to both the engine and if anything to the trans, and don't forget condition of the clutch components. IMO a freeway flyer trans is not a good idea in a '70 Bus. Do you have trouble shifting gears? If so, that could mean problems with shift rod bushings begining with the shift rod under the cab floor and going rearward to the transmission.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:44 am

You really need someone to help identify your transmission problem. If your tranny problem is in the shift linkage or CV joints it can easily be fixed without replacing the unit, likely for very little cost.

If you are going to own a near stock bus, you just might as well accept the fact that it is doing to be slow. Going to a freeway flyer transmission will probably not help either your gas mileage or top speed very much. It will just slow you down on the grades and potentially cause the engine to run hotter.

If you really want a powerful rig, you need to be looking at something like Jake Raby's Camper Special and do an upright conversion and then get a transmission geared to match. This could cost you $10K by the time you are done.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:59 am

Are you aware of what this will cost you? It could easily be around $5000 for the engine and transmission you're speaking of. If you are ok with that then we can start talking about your options.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:45 am

Good engine & trans comments all.

chellafoundwaldo, you stated, "i would also like to get a freeway flier transmission to help with my mpg and to make the (many!) highway miles i drive a bit quicker."

'A bit quicker', if you mean dropping the engine RPMs, just a little, at highway cruising speeds, can be as simple/inexpensive as a switch from 185R14 tires to 205R14 tires, properly rated, of course (see tire stickies!).

Warnings mentioned earlier about cutting back on the engine's cooling ability with a "Freeway Flyer" trans are serious. Also note that some of the 'Flyer' trannies sold have a much wider ratio gap between 3rd & 4th gears, forcing you to frequently downshift & slow down to attack in 3rd gear, hills that might otherwise have been climbed successfully with a stock 4th gear ratio.

As for the increased MPG... maybe, but you won't see it if revving it up in 3rd to try to keep up, and lugging it along in a too-high 4th gear won't get better fuel efficiency either (potential engine damage aside). It's certainly a mixed bag.

One thing you can easily do to help a 1970 engine is to install a 1971 "doghouse" oil cooler, tin & fan. That & good maintenance may be all you need to keep your engine running efficiently for years.

As advised... fluid changes, fuel line changes, valve adjustments, compression checks, trans linkage checkout/repairs... take it sequentially. Have fun & enjoy your bay.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:14 pm

A real good 10 year old engine well maintained and not a lot of miles might end up being a lot better than a new chancy one.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:24 pm

Desertbusman wrote: A real good 10 year old engine well maintained and not a lot of miles might end up being a lot better than a new chancy one.

That is certainly the direction I would lean. New parts, new problems. :cry: