| glutamodo |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:57 pm |
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| Ah, okay. It's only about 12 dollars from them to get the 49,49a and 31 relay, which is the one that VW went over to starting around 1971. They used to sell the Tridon EP-35, I just looked, and their website shows some no-name EF-35 now for only 10 bucks. |
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| Rometsch2880 |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:59 pm |
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| Think that's the issue? I don't know which wires should run to it. It has the two going into this relay. There are no more wires. This is so confusing. |
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| glutamodo |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:31 pm |
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Well, I asked because I was wondering if you had them both grounded to the same spot - as a "far out" possible ground issue. I like grounded relays because they flash outside the car first, two-terminal relays light up the dash first, and sometimes take a maddening amount of time before the relay "warms up" and starts flashing the outside lights. But I don't think that would be an issue here, still if I had a euro-spec relay I'd try it next after making sure of rock-solid grounds in back.
-Andy |
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| Rometsch2880 |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:37 pm |
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| I'll look at those grounds tomorrow. What would you suggest I look for if my grounds are good? |
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| glutamodo |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:30 pm |
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Well, let me think out loud here for a second. The two DPDT relays seem to be working fine now. You get your correct front and rear lights flashing at the proper rate when you make a turn. But when you've got the flashers going, and then activate the brake light that should be flowing uninterrupted through the other side's relay somehow causes the flasher system to stop working. In theory, this should be impossible, as the two sides are isolated and separated. (which is why you need to make sure no ground issues, because really weird stuff can happen with flaky grounds) You said the parking lights made no difference back - that's yet another power source back there that could potentially feed back into the wrong circuit(s) if there are ground issues, but since yours is not doing it, grrr...
If grounds are all good... I'd get it to act up, bypass the brake light switch (or wedge a snow brush between the pedal and the front seat to activate the brake lights) and with the key on select a turn and get it to "quit", then with a voltmeter make sure you still really do have +12V at the flasher relay. (The X terminal, is actually a Plus and is the side you are supposed to have your power hooked up to on that kind of flasher unit, the L stands for Load, or the wire going to the lights, in your case via the relays) And make sure you still have +12V going from the turn switch to terminal 7 on that side's DPDT relay. You might disconnect it and verify it "clicks" to show it's still responding to that 12V signal.
That's about as deep as I can think of tests at this point. Sorry you've had so much trouble, I don't remember this extent of issues the last time I tried this. Perhaps that trailer adapter setup is best, but in my experience long ago I had better luck with the dual relays. I do hope you figure this out though, if for nothing else to prove that my diagram was correct and that there was nothing that I forgot about (I drew it up on paper from memory, then translated that to a "clean" diagram on the computer)
-Andy |
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