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Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:51 am

rambler1959 wrote: stuco wrote: My metal (interior) brake lines are leaking. I was looking on jbugs and I found this but I'm guessing this is for the lines that go to each wheel.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/113698001A.html?Category_Code=30117

Do I need this?

http://www.jbugs.com/product/211611741K.html?Category_Code=30117

or this?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698001A

or something else...

Wolfsburgwest is the cheapest and says they are made in germany. I'd go with that and replace as much as i could now that the interior is gutted. I'd suggest also getting a tube bender if you don't already have one. They are cheap and will make the job alot easier. Just use the old lines as templates for the new ones.
If you have to replace one brake line, you might as well replace them all, both hard and flexible lines. From what I've read, metal brake lines rust from the inside out. For the flexible lines, you may want to consider steel braided lines. I bought some from CIP for my 61 for a reasonable price.

When I replaced all of my brake lines not too long ago, I bought a tubing bender for the hard lines, but I ended up not using it. The hard lines aren't very difficult to bend by hand. I found I spent a lot more time trying to use the tubing bender than bending by hand. Unless you're building a show car or you absolutely have to have nice, clean bends, I wouldn't use a tubing bender. Just my $0.02.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:56 am

People talk about using Rustoleum products, and yeah it will work for now, but why half-a$$ it??? People talk about using POR-15, which is a good product, expensive, and needs a lot of prep work. Take a look at Rustbullet. Rustbullet doesn't need much of any prep work and is designed for car restoration. I'm not bashing anybody on the rustoleum, but why not pay a few extra $$$ and do it that way? I personally used the Rustoleum on my pan and when I decided to do a full resto, I brought everything down to bare metal and sprayed the Rustbullet on it. Whichever way you decide to go, get some Denatured Alcohol after sanding, and get that baby clean!!!! I didn't do a good enough job when I put the rustoleum down on my pan and the rustoleum flaked right off. It needs to be a nice clean surface. Doesn't need to be down to bare metal, because you can put the rustolem down on rust, but make sure the oil/grease residue is off the surfact you are painting. My .02

Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:51 pm

sixtythree_bug wrote: People talk about using Rustoleum products, and yeah it will work for now, but why half-a$$ it??? People talk about using POR-15, which is a good product, expensive, and needs a lot of prep work. Take a look at Rustbullet. Rustbullet doesn't need much of any prep work and is designed for car restoration. I'm not bashing anybody on the rustoleum, but why not pay a few extra $$$ and do it that way? I personally used the Rustoleum on my pan and when I decided to do a full resto, I brought everything down to bare metal and sprayed the Rustbullet on it. Whichever way you decide to go, get some Denatured Alcohol after sanding, and get that baby clean!!!! I didn't do a good enough job when I put the rustoleum down on my pan and the rustoleum flaked right off. It needs to be a nice clean surface. Doesn't need to be down to bare metal, because you can put the rustolem down on rust, but make sure the oil/grease residue is off the surfact you are painting. My .02

Yeah, I hear ya. POR-15 is flippin expensive. I had some left over from my bus that I've been using. I'm going to get some black rustoleum and coat the crap out of the floors in a couple days. I had some bad rust spots on my bus that I cleaned up and painted over with just white rustoleum. I didn't see any rust coming throuh while I owned it after that so although it may not be as good as POR or similar, it's still darn effective and definately easier on the wallet.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:53 pm

MANNAXMAN wrote:

When I replaced all of my brake lines not too long ago, I bought a tubing bender for the hard lines, but I ended up not using it. The hard lines aren't very difficult to bend by hand. I found I spent a lot more time trying to use the tubing bender than bending by hand. Unless you're building a show car or you absolutely have to have nice, clean bends, I wouldn't use a tubing bender. Just my $0.02.

I'm all for not buying something! I think I can bend them cleanly using a pipe or something so I'll try that first.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:56 pm

You will find that if you do a Rustoleum primer and then paint a couple of coats of black gloss, you'll get the desired effect. Also, the spray goes on well and have a tin for any touch up. Heck I bought 10 cans of their gloss spray this weekend. As long as oxygen and water isn't getting to the car then you'll be good. I also use a rust burner once I have taken the rust out/ down to the metal. This is a gel and is sold by autozone. It works a treat for the added insurance. The gel + primer + 2 coats of gloss. Rust hasn't got a chance. :wink:

Either way, thanks for saving one.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:06 am

stuco wrote: I'm on a very limited budget. I'd like to control the rust from progressing and make it usable. I'm trying to save this car but I can't make it 100% perfect at the moment.

Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is the best product Rustoleum has.
Ive also used it successfully, the key is in the PREPARATION. You say you are short on funds but I hope youre not short on elbow grease because you can make your bug into a nice daily driver.

When I use the Rusty Metal Primer I clean off the rusted area completely, trying to get off every flake and as much oxidation as I can. Dont let the holes that will appear scare you, as its a good sign that you are getting down to metal that can be saved. Then I WASH the rusted areas good. I use Comet or Ajax, and scrub it with wire brush or green scour pads, and then rinse completely. Sometimes I just use the hose to rinse, but dont let water get into your inaccessable areas like your heater channels. I have drilled small drain holes in rusty VW floors. (Let the water dry a bit and you will see the low points where to drill the holes). Then you must let everything dry out completely (days). When you apply the R M Primer on this surface, the rust aint going nowhere. You have to let Rusty Metal Primer dry for at least a week as it seems to be slow drying, but after 2 weeks, it should be fairly hard. THEN you can topcoat with black gloss or low-gloss or whatever you want.

You will be happy with the result if you treat your rust this way. If you want to know how to handle the holes I will tell you my fix for that. (Not fiberglass).
Ask me how I know. :D

Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:17 am

So, how do you fix them? On pin holes on the floor, I would use roofing tar.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:15 pm

What I've been doing is getting the rust down with a wire wheel and then CLR. Then flat black rustoleum. I've decided to leave the holes. When they do get fixed, it will be easier if they aren't hidden with fiberglass.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:33 pm

another good way is to take it down to bare metal get all that rust out of there, get some metal etch (sold at any paint store) wipe it with that then spray a good coat of metal etch primer, then a couple of coats of filler primer, once you got that in it will fill most rough spots and imperfections, then you can spray on a paint of your choice, but dont forget to sand the filler primer down a bit otherwise your paint will not come out looking as good

Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:18 pm

vwsteve wrote: So, how do you fix them? On pin holes on the floor, I would use roofing tar.

Yeah thats what I use.
After I assess the holes to figure out what my sheetmetal patches will look like, I use good quatlity roofing tar material sandwiched under metal patches applied with pop rivets. Its messy doing the job, but once cleaned up afterward, its a very solid repair, and will seal up your compartment for good.
I cut my metal patches out of sheet metal with shears, (make paper patterns first), then bend the patch to shape and pre-drill the pop rivet holes in the patch material first before applying the roofing tar. Put some tar on the area to be covered also. When you lay down your patch (neatness counts) the tar will squeeze out, then drill through and pop your rivets to secure on that patch. You will be amazed how solid it is, and when it cures after time, it aint goin no where :D
Dont flame me for this tar-baby fix. Short of cutting, replacing with new ($$$$), and welding, it is your best repair. Water will not touch that area again. I always use this where it is not seen. Its nice if you can reach the backside of the hole also to cover that as well with just the tar.

I use this stuff, its the smoothest.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:42 pm

jzjames wrote: vwsteve wrote: So, how do you fix them? On pin holes on the floor, I would use roofing tar.

Yeah thats what I use.
After I assess the holes to figure out what my sheetmetal patches will look like, I use good quatlity roofing tar material sandwiched under metal patches applied with pop rivets. Its messy doing the job, but once cleaned up afterward, its a very solid repair, and will seal up your compartment for good.
I cut my metal patches out of sheet metal with shears, (make paper patterns first), then bend the patch to shape and pre-drill the pop rivet holes in the patch material first before applying the roofing tar. Put some tar on the area to be covered also. When you lay down your patch (neatness counts) the tar will squeeze out, then drill through and pop your rivets to secure on that patch. You will be amazed how solid it is, and when it cures after time, it aint goin no where :D
Dont flame me for this tar-baby fix. Short of cutting, replacing with new ($$$$), and welding, it is your best repair. Water will not touch that area again. I always use this where it is not seen. Its nice if you can reach the backside of the hole also to cover that as well with just the tar.

I use this stuff, its the smoothest.

I have patched many floors that way for the last 25 years. I am sure somebody will say how that is just terrible though, and if you can't do it "right", then don't do it at all.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:01 pm

Way to save another Bug and a 66 to boot! Please join the dedicated 1966 VW Beetle web site. You'll find plenty of support and love for your new find.

www.1966vwbeetle.com

Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:46 pm

A great rust remover is an angle grinder with some dewalt sanding pads. Then buff up with your wire brush. Just wear safety equipment and a breathing mask for fun. 8)

Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:10 am

Eastwood sells some stuff that converts rust back into regular metal and coats it so it won't continue to rust. Once it's chemically changed you can weld or glass it and it'll stick.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.ht...iAodnWn10A

Worth 20 bucks.

Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:13 am

I have seen beetles in worst condition and guys have restored them beautifully....

Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:21 pm

Hey stuco i live in anniston i have some parts for your bug.I tried to buy that bug years ago but he would not sale.Glad you saved it and you bringing it back to life.Greg 256-236-1765 or 256 591-6899 I bought a parts bug today (1964)

Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:40 am

Great find man and it just makes me SICK! :shock: $400.00