| stuco |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:45 pm |
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Been cleaning up the interior more. The first few pics show the bad rust spots. I don't weld so what should I do about these? POR-15 and then fiberglass? Is there any real reason to worry about structural integrety in this area? The other pics are of the floors cleaned up, they look pretty good overall.
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| bedebtfree |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 2:39 pm |
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| You can learn to weld, and a mig welder that can weld thin sheet metal is only a few hundred bucks. The repair panels you need are cheap and easy to find. |
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| 6Kabrio7 |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 2:45 pm |
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| To do it right you need to replace that package tray. |
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| stuco |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 3:45 pm |
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| I'd love to guys but I'm on a very limited budget. If I do a full resto one day on it, I will fix everything but since these are the only bad rust spots I'd like to control the rust from progressing and make it usable. I'm trying to save this car but I can't make it 100% perfect at the moment, it will be something I continue to work on as time goes on. |
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| LTL4 |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:31 pm |
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| I know how you feel man. I have a 67 that I am working on it is in more working shape than yours but I have so many little things I should do all the way through and cant because I need to be a daily driver. |
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| 58Dub |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:49 pm |
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| If you have no $$ but want to drive it....stop the rust and glass it up. you can always fix it the right way later |
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| 50ate |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:58 pm |
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| just buy it clr it and get it running toss a beam in it do a brake job and you will be happy.. i would buuy it in a heartbeat.. |
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| gondiwindi |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:08 pm |
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Just find a local garage that can do light welding and get a rate set for repeat business. Then cut out the bad areas and cut the steel into shape for the mech. to weld. Then paint the A out of everything. I use rustoleum primer and then 2 layers of black gloss. Rust doesn't touch treated areas and after 5 years treated areas are still in great shape.
Just my 0.02. |
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| dantrefethen |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:12 pm |
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There are those who are going to say if your not going to do it right don't
do it. I say a guys got to do what guys got to do.
There was a time when I was a starving college student and half my floor
pans were patches of fiberglass. All the time I promised the car some day
I would do it right. I finally did.
Some times a band aid is the best we can do for now.
Dan |
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| 6Kabrio7 |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:25 pm |
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| you could just throw some carpet over that tray. |
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| swhitcomb |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:08 pm |
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| Actually, if you were careful, you could pop rivet a new package tray in until such time as you could afford to weld it in. It's all spot welds, and no welded seams anywhere. I'm actually in the middle of a package tray replacement myself, however I am welding it. |
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| dantrefethen |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:19 pm |
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Here is what WW has:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113813111BH
Dan |
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| teuton |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:31 pm |
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EXCELLENT!!
I'm living vicariously through you right now! Glad you rescued it - you did the right thing.
Does the motor spin freely?
That is going to be so cool when you have it running and driving around and you can look back at the pictures of it sitting in the field looking forlorn and sad. |
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| stuco |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:33 pm |
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teuton wrote: EXCELLENT!!
I'm living vicariously through you right now! Glad you rescued it - you did the right thing.
Does the motor spin freely?
That is going to be so cool when you have it running and driving around and you can look back at the pictures of it sitting in the field looking forlorn and sad.
Thanks man! Yes the motor turns freely! I asked him to tell me what was going on with it when he parked it. He said it felt like it was losing power. So that could be a lot of things, it could be something minor (or not), I'll just have to see. |
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| stuco |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:34 pm |
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My metal (interior) brake lines are leaking. I was looking on jbugs and I found this but I'm guessing this is for the lines that go to each wheel.
http://www.jbugs.com/product/113698001A.html?Category_Code=30117
Do I need this?
http://www.jbugs.com/product/211611741K.html?Category_Code=30117
or this?
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698001A
or something else... |
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| EMPIImp69 |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:52 pm |
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| Damn, they shot out all the glass including the headlight glass, and they didn't hit the metal of the car? That's pretty impressive.. :lol: Its prolly better that they didn't hit the metal..glass for that car isn't too hard to find..some popouts in the back would be nice. |
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| MAYHEM |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:11 pm |
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stuco wrote: My metal (interior) brake lines are leaking. I was looking on jbugs and I found this but I'm guessing this is for the lines that go to each wheel.
http://www.jbugs.com/product/113698001A.html?Category_Code=30117
That's ALL metal lines. Couldn't hurt.
Do I need this?
http://www.jbugs.com/product/211611741K.html?Category_Code=30117
Front to rear line. Sound's like that's what's leaking.
or this?
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698001A
Worth replacing.
or something else... |
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| stuco |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:14 pm |
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EMPIImp69 wrote: Damn, they shot out all the glass including the headlight glass, and they didn't hit the metal of the car? That's pretty impressive.. :lol: Its prolly better that they didn't hit the metal..glass for that car isn't too hard to find..some popouts in the back would be nice.
Don't forget the tail lights and blinkers. :x It was a bb or a pellet gun (kid) so I'm sure they hit the body, just didn't do anything. |
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| rambler1959 |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:36 pm |
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stuco wrote: My metal (interior) brake lines are leaking. I was looking on jbugs and I found this but I'm guessing this is for the lines that go to each wheel.
http://www.jbugs.com/product/113698001A.html?Category_Code=30117
Do I need this?
http://www.jbugs.com/product/211611741K.html?Category_Code=30117
or this?
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698001A
or something else...
Wolfsburgwest is the cheapest and says they are made in germany. I'd go with that and replace as much as i could now that the interior is gutted. I'd suggest also getting a tube bender if you don't already have one. They are cheap and will make the job alot easier. Just use the old lines as templates for the new ones. |
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| 66 Bugman |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:51 pm |
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gondiwindi wrote: Just find a local garage that can do light welding and get a rate set for repeat business. Then cut out the bad areas and cut the steel into shape for the mech. to weld. Then paint the A out of everything. I use rustoleum primer and then 2 layers of black gloss. Rust doesn't touch treated areas and after 5 years treated areas are still in great shape.
Just my 0.02.
I totally agree.
Use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. This is their original stuff. It's a... well... rust color. It works wonders!!! Seriously, it's the fish oil in it that protects so well. I did the entire underside of my car in the stuff and the rear tray, lots of salt, no rust. I also put black truck bed liner spray on top of it, to make it look nice.
POR-15 is great if you can get the metal extremely bare and clean, but honestly I think the Rustoleum is amazing. It's work so well. No rust anywhere. And, it's a HECK of a lot less expensive than POR-15. Perhaps when you (if you want to that is...) do a full resto you can do the POR-15 thing.
It's your decision man.
Just keep the rust at bay so you can do it right later on, or just continue to keep it at bay, realize that it's just a car and enjoy it!
:wink: |
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